Back to Canada: Lake McArthur and Mountain Goats

When Joan and I awoke on July 19, 2022, clouds were scraping the high peaks, but after breakfast, pockets of blue rent the gray blanket. Somehow, it didn't feel threatening, even if the air was colder today.

We decided to visit Lake McArthur, feeling used and stiff after yesterday's cross-country hurdles and off-kilter bridges. Using the Big Larches route, we ascended and looked back at O'Hara. Few critters were visible in the rock pile today, and those were fleeting glimpses.

From Schaffer Lake, we took the left-hand trail, close to the flanks of Mount Schaffer.

Joan and I began to meet other hikers (but not in this photo),

then chose to use the Highline trail to McArthur.

Moss campion with blooms!

There are two high "steps" along the Highline, but they aren't as bad as they look. Here's a photo from 2019.

We encountered a browsing marmot on the last stretch before spotting the lake, and he completely ignored us, intent on his meal.

Then Lake McArthur spread out before us.

Joan and I picked out a high perch for lunch. Viewing opportunities cascade down all the way to the lake's surface.

This was the view from our sit-spot.

A closeup of the receding glacier's face. Click on the image to enlarge it and see the many seasonal layers.

A newly arrived couple pointed out mountain goats on the distant slopes of Mount Schaffer. Binoculars revealed incomplete shedding of their winter coats.

Perhaps they stayed so far away out of embarrassment for their bedraggled appearance. With slim pickings to browse on, the goats kept wandering to the next green patch.

The lunch was a rousing success. We loaned binoculars to a woman lunching near us, who had also seen "our" earlier marmot.

 

Every time we visit McArthur, I take a photo at a sign that, in 2012, stood in a few inches of water.

But not this time.

The critters up  here are accustomed to humans. This Columbian ground squirrel was alert yet curious.

We returned to Schaffer Lake by the lower trail, which descended but imposed a return climb. Then Joan and I opted to return to O'Hara by the Big Larches trail.

We had another great day at O'Hara. The following day would be our last hike at his wonderful location.

On the 7th/8th day of Hiking (Linda Lake)

Not every day can be a sunny day, especially so during September 2018. Today, the 12th, Joan and I first thought, given the patches of blue in the sky, that today could be the day to tackle Wiwaxy Gap/Huber Ledges, a climb to about 8,000 feet and much of it exposed. A few minutes after setting out we could see weather coming in, and reversing course, changed our destination to Linda Lake. We were too late to catch the 9:15 bus for a dropoff that would save a couple of kilometers on the outbound leg, and took the Morning Glory route towards the lake.

The MG route is rocky and rooty, but Joan and I plugged on, changing our outerwear every so often in response to the fluctuating conditions. We were glad to have donned our rain pants while in the cabin!

On the way we crossed paths with two grouse. Finally the trail curved sharply to the south-west and began a descent to the Morning Glory Lakes. From there Joan spotted a mountain goat on the flanks of Odaray Mountain, lifting our spirits. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

The next phase was a climb of many switchbacks up the Beeline trail, a warming effort. I had unzipped anything I could by the time we hit the top.

We reached the shore of Linda Lake and Joan was soon dispensing trail advice on routes both well-marked and incognito, using a map to assist a group of four and another of two, both new to the O'Hara trail system. The situation at Linda Lake is especially confusing ...

You can make a circuit around Linda Lake, but whether the leg on the eastern side exists or not is mystifying to the newcomer. The trail on the southern side is narrow and sometimes at the water's edge, but easy to follow, and takes the hiker to a rock pile that in better weather is a fantastic lunch spot with views of Linda Lake and resident pikas on parade.

Joan and I found a quasi-sheltered spot for lunch at the top of the rock pile among a thin stand of trees. There were waves of ice pellets, but none so strong as to accumulate or keep us from our sandwiches and cookies. I slipped when standing up from lunch, but no harm done!

One disadvantage of my point-and-shoot camera is that there is no lens guard, and when powered on it sticks its snout way out. Thus, I'm reluctant to use it in weather like we had this day.

Afterwards we hiked a short distance towards Vera Lake, and caught this view of the heights on the north side of Duchesnay Basin.

On our return we crossed the north side of Linda Lake and continued downhill to the crossroads with the Lower Morning Glory trail. The Lower Morning Glory was so free of foot snares (roots and rocks) that we must have traveled twice as fast as our incoming pace. We encountered a solo grouse, who was much warier of us than the pairs we'd met so far. Perhaps it was the survivor of a pair.

This route took us through the campground, and we admired the level gravel pads and supplementary tarps strung above many of the tents, covering much of the pad. Rather than continue up the road Joan and I crossed to the trail along the east side of Lake O'Hara's exit creek, which we'd done once before. We caught a few minutes of heavy rain before reaching our cabin and hanging our stuff up to dry. There were no bats. This was the view from our cabin; no mountains in sight.

The meteorological situation hadn't improved the next day. Snow had fallen overnight on the middle and upper altitudes, and ice pellets rained lightly before and during breakfast.

Joan and I decided to wait and see what developed. Soon after we returned to our cabin it began to snow intensely, but with light wind. By lunchtime there had been two waves of heavy snow bracketed by calm times and light precipitation. We caught up on some reading as our traveling companions, pig and frog, looked out the window.

We ate lunch on our porch, accompanied by pipits, a yellow-rumped warbler, various small mousy critters, and a hopeful squirrel that we discouraged by foot stomping. Later in the afternoon Joan and I circumambulated Lake O'Hara in the snow to get out of the cabin and get some exercise.

Then it was time for dinner, a first-class experience at Lake O'Hara. We arrived early and I captured this view from near the entrance of the dining room.

The sun began to make an apologetic appearance during the meal, sinking lower but offering a promise for tomorrow.

Smoke and Snow: All Souls Prospect

September 15th, our last day at Lake O'Hara, had the best weather of the last three days.

Where to hike? We needed to be back in time for the 4:00 bus, so Joan and I chose All Souls Prospect and on to Opabin Plateau, rather than Wiwaxy Gap and on to Lake Oesa.

We started by repeating Big Larches, but with a side trip to Mary Lake. All Souls Prospect is the triangular promontory in front of the line of peaks.

The waters of Mary Lake were reflective, green-tinted glass.

When climbing Big Larches we were favored with a pika viewing.

When not keeping lookout, the pikas were busy foraging, accumulating "haystacks" of fodder beneath the rocks for the winter months.

The All Souls alpine route branched off just before the Big Larches trail reached Schaeffer Lake.

After a few easy switchbacks the route became steep and rocky.

Sometimes it was necessary to look for the alpine blazes, two vertical yellow bars on a blue square, while at other times the path was obvious. But always up; our hiking poles were essential today. 

At least the exertion kept Joan and me warm, for in the shade or at a breezy spot, with which All Souls is well endowed, it was very cold. The muddy patches bristled with long ice needles. We continued to climb.

Partway up there was a natural terrace, handy for catching the breath, adjusting boots,

 and taking in the view.

Continuing on, Joan and I encountered a trail volunteer repainting alpine blazes. She was chilled, sitting on the ground with just her jacket and cap against the wind. We chatted briefly before she resumed administering fresh blue and yellow paint over faded markings.

We were first to the cairn atop the Prospect, despite our deliberate pace.

Perhaps this was because we were headed counter-clockwise on the Alpine Circuit. If a hiker traverses the entire circle of alpine routes around Lake O'Hara in a day, with photographic proof at key locations including Wiwaxy Gap and All Souls, he/she can sign a register at the lodge and be awarded a pin. Most often this challenge is taken up in a clockwise direction to avoid going down from Wiwaxy Gap, making All Souls the final leg before descending to O'Hara.

 Looking over to Odaray Mountain.

 Lake O'Hara, Wiwaxy Gap, Huber and part of Yukness Ledges.

Our solitude was brief. Peter arrived up from the Opabin Plateau, having come down from the (now defunct) Abbot Hut and across the Yukness Ledges. We marveled at his strength, and we took turns portrait-taking.

Four more arrived by the way we had come, and Joan and I had a "first lunch." It was much too cold -- my fingers were freezing -- to eat it all there. We hiked down the All Souls route towards the Opabin Plateau.

A closer look at Opabin Prospect across the way.

We stopped at the Rock Garden, a zone of tall slabs and boulders near Opabin, to finish our lunch, including the all-important Lake O'Hara cookies. A pika was sunning nearby.

The All Souls route reaches the West Opabin trail via a tall boulder waterfall from the Garden. In this photo Joan and I were partway down, and a trio at the junction were discussing. (Click on the image to enlarge.) Again the hiking poles were handy.

Looking back up from the junction.

As we started down the West Opabin trail, headed for the lodge and bus, we spotted a mountain goat browsing on a ledge below the All Souls route we'd just finished. The distance demanded binoculars.

We passed this duck on the shore of Lake O'Hara, perhaps a female, or non-breeding-plumage male, Barrow's Goldeneye.

Joan and I reached the lodge in time for a pit stop and the afternoon tea. We had greatly enjoyed our time at O'Hara, as always, despite some weather challenges.

At 4:00 the bus took us 11 km to the parking area, and we drove down Kicking Horse Pass to Cathedral Mountain Lodge. Tomorrow would be our final day of hiking in Yoho National Park before shifting our activity to Kananaskis Country. Our goal: the Iceline.

Smoke and Snow: Opabin Plateau

The morning of September 14th was bright and cheerful -- and the landscape frosty/snowy.

The photogs loved it.

Joan and I decided to hike up to and around the Opabin Plateau today,

and leave a more alpine hike for tomorrow, when those high trails might be less snowy. This photo shows snow up at Wiwaxy Gap and the Huber Ledges,

and the snow is more widespread in the shady areas. Clouds began to form as moisture rose from the sunlit slopes.

The West Opabin trail started out through the woods.

Then it began to climb the west flank of the plateau, and Mary Lake came into view.

After traversing rocky steps and switchbacks, Joan and I neared the crest of the trail. But wait -- was that a mountain goat ahead? (Click on the image to enlarge and check the center.)

Bring up the binoculars! It sure was.

This male mountain goat was so happy to lie on the grass and chew cud in the sunshine that as long as we remained on the trail, he was unconcerned about us, even when I raised my camera. This was a great privilege he granted.

Those are horns, not antlers, meaning they are part of the animal's skull, even if covered in a sheath that darkens the color.

We left him to his meal, and took the short loop out to Opabin Prospect.

It's a great view out there.

Look down from the edge and get a great view of the lakes.

Joan and I continued around the Prospect, reaching the point where the trail dips down to the Cascade Lakes.

At the edge of the water we caught sight of an American Dipper, a bird that catches all its food by striding about underwater.

After crossing the footbridge I looked back the way we had just come.

A left turn took us to the Opabin Highline trail, which meanders deeper into the plateau along a ridge. We stopped for lunch at a viewpoint that looked back at the lakes and bluff.

This stretch of trail was deserted, but across the way we spotted hikers on the Yukness Ledges trail.

Before reaching the end of the Highline we encountered two gents who told us that there were ptarmigans on the last section of the East Opabin trail, where it climbs to its namesake lake.

Joan and I reached the south shore of Hungabee Lake. (That's pronounced Hun-GAH-bee, not HUNG-a-bee.) Opabin Lake is beyond the moraine that rises from the far shore, and can be reached from either side.

We encountered a pair of guys navigating, barely, by a map on their phone that had no topographic lines or lake names. They asked if this was Hungabee, and we assured them it was.

Ascending the East Opabin trail, we indeed encountered ptarmigans. Seven of them, in the dry creekbed just left of the footpath. They were fluffed up against the cold,

 and changing into their winter plumage.

Some would venture out of the creekbed from time to time,

and one, seemingly cast out from the group, gave us quite a stare. Was it curious, or on alert?

We, and others, approached Opabin Lake.

The water levels were low here too, similar to our visit to Lake McArthur.

To make a loop Joan and I crossed to the west side of the moraine, where another trail ascends/descends, and looked down on Hungabee Lake. The West Opabin trail is visible on the left.

We noticed a group that was traveling "cross-country" towards the All Souls trail, rather than taking the West Opabin down to the far end of the plateau, where the two intersect. Technically this may be the shorter distance but I don't think they could have saved much time.

Joan and I returned to our cabin, and I caught this sunset photo on our return from dinner.

What a day, with ptarmigans and a mountain goat closeup! Tomorrow, our last day at Lake O'Hara.