Canadian Rockies 2025: Lake O'Hara, Part One

On July 20, 2025, Joan and I began our stay at Lake O'Hara. We boarded the lodge bus for the 11 km drive up the fire road to the lodge -- no private vehicles or bicycles allowed. After checking in, we started hiking towards Lake Oesa. This was the view from the south shore of O'Hara, with some cabins and the Opabin plateau centered in the frame. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

At this time of year and altitude, the yellow columbine was in bloom. Lakeshore altitude: 2,020 meters (6,630 ft).

We soon began the switchbacks and other climbs towards Oesa. This cascade

was the exit for the smaller Victoria Lake along the way.

We'd encountered three light rain showers already and decided to turn around, find our now-available cabin, and unpack. At Yukness Lake,

Click on any image to enlarge.

we observed a browsing marmot.

The low clouds lingered as we left the marmot to his foraging.

Then it was downhill to Lake O'Hara, our cabin, and unpacking.

 

The next day, July 21, Joan and I set our sights on Lake McArthur. A 60% chance of showers was predicted for today, but the rain never came! Early on, we took a short spur from the main trail to visit Mary Lake.

Then we climbed the "staircase," a series of steps and switchbacks on the edge of a talus slope. In this photo, we're partway up, looking back at the Lake O'Hara basin.

Half an hour further along, hiking laterally for the moment, we encountered this hermit thrush.

Very close to this clump of alpine/rosy paintbrush.

We examined the sign-in kiosk for crossing the McArthur gap to the Odaray Highline, out of curiosity -- already the maximum of four parties had signed in. Joan and I took  the McArthur Highline trail,

and eventually crested with a view of McArthur. We were surprised to see very few people there.

As we walked down towards a good lunch spot, we attracted wildlife, including an inquisitive squirrel.

As we ate, we heard a loon call multiple times, and later spotted it! After rest and replenishment, Joan and I wandered down to the lakeshore.

Here's the signpost by which we measure the lake's level; this year, it's a smidge low.

We began our return on the low-level trail, which merges with the high-level trail at a saddle.

The low-level dives into the trees.

Moss campion was blooming!

Marmots were active here, some not too bashful.

As they foraged.

Joan and I made a side trip on our return since it was still only 2:30. We took an "alpine" route to a viewpoint partway up the All Souls Prospect trail. This path was dodgier than non-alpine routes in terms of footing, steepness, and high steps, but it offers great views. It gave us a great sense of accomplishment, training, and hope that we could tackle other demanding hikes during our visit. Here's a panoramic take. Some haze has built up, but it's still beautiful.

It was a long but rewarding hike.

Canada 2024: Lake McArthur, frozen

On July 10th, 2024, Joan and I aimed our hike toward Lake McArthur, Joan's father's favorite lake. As usual, we ascended via the Big Larches (what I sometimes call the "big steps") route. After leaving the O'Hara lakeshore, a couple of intersections must be negotiated. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

After the first intersection, we passed Mary Lake.

Then, it was time to avoid being lured toward the ACC Hut route; we find the Big Larches route more scenic.

That trail soon winds alongside an imposing talus slope, takes a sharp left, and begins a tall climb.

Joan and I like to pause several times on this ascent, not only to catch our breath: there is always a chance of spotting a marmot or a pika dashing through the rocky landscape. Sadly, none showed themselves today. We did spot an interesting rock slab, a change from the usual chunky stones.

Ripples and trails from the distant past!

The view began to open up towards Lake O'Hara and Mount Huber.

Finally, the trail turned right and became more or less level. After passing the All Souls trail we soon emerged on the shores of Schaffer Lake.

We took the route forward that would take us to the Odaray Highline sign-in kiosk. We passed by this intriguing split boulder.

The kiosk was still closed for the winter, but (spoiler alert) Parks Canada would unwrap it in the next day or two.

Joan and I then crossed over to the McArthur Highline. This trail winds its way through talus slopes and, today, occasional snow patches.

A few moments later, we spotted this marmot.

A cluster of moss campion was sending forth blooms.

The trail pitched over two tall steps, then switchbacked up to the lip of the lake basin and traversed this meadow.

Our outbound route, in green:

Joan and I found a vantage point to have lunch and view the icebound lake. We enjoyed watching the changing light on its surface, speckled with open water, white patches, and almost melted ice of varying hues.

Click on the image to enlarge.

It's easy to go down to the lakeshore, but stay on the trails! Past trespassers have beaten eroding paths that the National Park is trying to restore.

Along the shore, we met a mom and daughter, who gave us sunglasses, left behind by lodge guests, for us to turn in. Then there was a mom and son who were trying to (eventually) test the water temperature. Mom waded in deeper than the youth!

 

This signpost is our unofficial lake-gauge. The water was surprisingly low, perhaps due to the delayed spring melt.

We had heard deep patches of snow lingered on the low route, so we returned on the high route. We met Brenda and her husband in the Alpine Meadow, with whom we chatted all the way to Le Relais, a short walk from our cabin.

 

Tomorrow would be a more ambitious hike Joan and I hadn't tackled since 2011 -- Monica Lake.

Hiking Canada 2023: Lake McArthur

Day 9

On July 19th, 2023, Joan and I agreed, "Let's get a good hike in, but also have a bit of a recovery day." To that end, we decided to visit Lake McArthur, taking the Big Larches trail (Route 2) for the first leg, hoping to see some pikas or marmots there.

First, we passed by the shores of Mary Lake.

The Big Larches trail climbs a stone-and-root staircase along the edge of a rubble field, the accumulation of material that's fallen off Mount Schaffer.

On this day, Joan and I didn't spot any pikas or marmots here. We reached Schaffer Lake and, bearing left, continued.

Out of curiosity, we visited the sign-up kiosk for the Odaray Grandview. The pass there is a wildlife corridor, and there are seasonal limits on the number of groups using the Odaray Highline trail. One group had already returned, and we chatted with them. The fourth and final group signed in ~10:30. Joan and I returned to the McArthur Highline trail, and saw a marmot family -- yay! Here's a youngster:

And somebody's keeping an eye on him.

A little over half an hour later, we arrived at Lake McArthur, and found a spot to sit for lunch.

As we ate, we saw a family of ptarmigans foraging. Here's a better panorama of the scene. Today the air was clear.

Another group was down by the lakeshore. That water is cold, by the way. Glacier melt!

Photographers taking pictures of photographers.

In this panorama, we can see a trail at far right.

There's an intersection where a hiker can take the Low Level trail to return, rather than retracting their steps on the Highline, or go a short bit further around the lake.

In a wet year, we've seen that sign with a couple of inches of water at its feet, and in a dry one, more shore exposed.

During our return, we spotted a pika either working diligently on its harvest, or on its lunch.

He paused for a moment.

The return from Lake McArthur first afforded us a view from above, rather than beside, Schaffer Lake.

At this point in the hike, there were too many critters to keep track of. Basking, playing marmots. Foraging pikas. One pika, not six feet away, issued a loud, high-pitched warning call when a bald eagle flew overhead. A mom golden-eye duck and her sole remaining chick sheltered on a rock in the middle of Schaffer.

From here, Joan and I took the trail down to the Elizabeth Parker hut. This route is boring at other times of the year, but today, it was full of flowers, ferns, butterflies, and moths. At the Le Relais camp store, we even bought O'Hara-themed T-shirts. Our hike today was less strenuous than yesterday's trek, but given the views and the wildlife, it was a winner.