Canada 2024: Lake McArthur, frozen

On July 10th, 2024, Joan and I aimed our hike toward Lake McArthur, Joan's father's favorite lake. As usual, we ascended via the Big Larches (what I sometimes call the "big steps") route. After leaving the O'Hara lakeshore, a couple of intersections must be negotiated. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

After the first intersection, we passed Mary Lake.

Then, it was time to avoid being lured toward the ACC Hut route; we find the Big Larches route more scenic.

That trail soon winds alongside an imposing talus slope, takes a sharp left, and begins a tall climb.

Joan and I like to pause several times on this ascent, not only to catch our breath: there is always a chance of spotting a marmot or a pika dashing through the rocky landscape. Sadly, none showed themselves today. We did spot an interesting rock slab, a change from the usual chunky stones.

Ripples and trails from the distant past!

The view began to open up towards Lake O'Hara and Mount Huber.

Finally, the trail turned right and became more or less level. After passing the All Souls trail we soon emerged on the shores of Schaffer Lake.

We took the route forward that would take us to the Odaray Highline sign-in kiosk. We passed by this intriguing split boulder.

The kiosk was still closed for the winter, but (spoiler alert) Parks Canada would unwrap it in the next day or two.

Joan and I then crossed over to the McArthur Highline. This trail winds its way through talus slopes and, today, occasional snow patches.

A few moments later, we spotted this marmot.

A cluster of moss campion was sending forth blooms.

The trail pitched over two tall steps, then switchbacked up to the lip of the lake basin and traversed this meadow.

Our outbound route, in green:

Joan and I found a vantage point to have lunch and view the icebound lake. We enjoyed watching the changing light on its surface, speckled with open water, white patches, and almost melted ice of varying hues.

Click on the image to enlarge.

It's easy to go down to the lakeshore, but stay on the trails! Past trespassers have beaten eroding paths that the National Park is trying to restore.

Along the shore, we met a mom and daughter, who gave us sunglasses, left behind by lodge guests, for us to turn in. Then there was a mom and son who were trying to (eventually) test the water temperature. Mom waded in deeper than the youth!

 

This signpost is our unofficial lake-gauge. The water was surprisingly low, perhaps due to the delayed spring melt.

We had heard deep patches of snow lingered on the low route, so we returned on the high route. We met Brenda and her husband in the Alpine Meadow, with whom we chatted all the way to Le Relais, a short walk from our cabin.

 

Tomorrow would be a more ambitious hike Joan and I hadn't tackled since 2011 -- Monica Lake.

Hiking Canada 2023: Lake McArthur

Day 9

On July 19th, 2023, Joan and I agreed, "Let's get a good hike in, but also have a bit of a recovery day." To that end, we decided to visit Lake McArthur, taking the Big Larches trail (Route 2) for the first leg, hoping to see some pikas or marmots there.

First, we passed by the shores of Mary Lake.

The Big Larches trail climbs a stone-and-root staircase along the edge of a rubble field, the accumulation of material that's fallen off Mount Schaffer.

On this day, Joan and I didn't spot any pikas or marmots here. We reached Schaffer Lake and, bearing left, continued.

Out of curiosity, we visited the sign-up kiosk for the Odaray Grandview. The pass there is a wildlife corridor, and there are seasonal limits on the number of groups using the Odaray Highline trail. One group had already returned, and we chatted with them. The fourth and final group signed in ~10:30. Joan and I returned to the McArthur Highline trail, and saw a marmot family -- yay! Here's a youngster:

And somebody's keeping an eye on him.

A little over half an hour later, we arrived at Lake McArthur, and found a spot to sit for lunch.

As we ate, we saw a family of ptarmigans foraging. Here's a better panorama of the scene. Today the air was clear.

Another group was down by the lakeshore. That water is cold, by the way. Glacier melt!

Photographers taking pictures of photographers.

In this panorama, we can see a trail at far right.

There's an intersection where a hiker can take the Low Level trail to return, rather than retracting their steps on the Highline, or go a short bit further around the lake.

In a wet year, we've seen that sign with a couple of inches of water at its feet, and in a dry one, more shore exposed.

During our return, we spotted a pika either working diligently on its harvest, or on its lunch.

He paused for a moment.

The return from Lake McArthur first afforded us a view from above, rather than beside, Schaffer Lake.

At this point in the hike, there were too many critters to keep track of. Basking, playing marmots. Foraging pikas. One pika, not six feet away, issued a loud, high-pitched warning call when a bald eagle flew overhead. A mom golden-eye duck and her sole remaining chick sheltered on a rock in the middle of Schaffer.

From here, Joan and I took the trail down to the Elizabeth Parker hut. This route is boring at other times of the year, but today, it was full of flowers, ferns, butterflies, and moths. At the Le Relais camp store, we even bought O'Hara-themed T-shirts. Our hike today was less strenuous than yesterday's trek, but given the views and the wildlife, it was a winner.

Back to Canada: Lake McArthur and Mountain Goats

When Joan and I awoke on July 19, 2022, clouds were scraping the high peaks, but after breakfast, pockets of blue rent the gray blanket. Somehow, it didn't feel threatening, even if the air was colder today.

We decided to visit Lake McArthur, feeling used and stiff after yesterday's cross-country hurdles and off-kilter bridges. Using the Big Larches route, we ascended and looked back at O'Hara. Few critters were visible in the rock pile today, and those were fleeting glimpses.

From Schaffer Lake, we took the left-hand trail, close to the flanks of Mount Schaffer.

Joan and I began to meet other hikers (but not in this photo),

then chose to use the Highline trail to McArthur.

Moss campion with blooms!

There are two high "steps" along the Highline, but they aren't as bad as they look. Here's a photo from 2019.

We encountered a browsing marmot on the last stretch before spotting the lake, and he completely ignored us, intent on his meal.

Then Lake McArthur spread out before us.

Joan and I picked out a high perch for lunch. Viewing opportunities cascade down all the way to the lake's surface.

This was the view from our sit-spot.

A closeup of the receding glacier's face. Click on the image to enlarge it and see the many seasonal layers.

A newly arrived couple pointed out mountain goats on the distant slopes of Mount Schaffer. Binoculars revealed incomplete shedding of their winter coats.

Perhaps they stayed so far away out of embarrassment for their bedraggled appearance. With slim pickings to browse on, the goats kept wandering to the next green patch.

The lunch was a rousing success. We loaned binoculars to a woman lunching near us, who had also seen "our" earlier marmot.

 

Every time we visit McArthur, I take a photo at a sign that, in 2012, stood in a few inches of water.

But not this time.

The critters up  here are accustomed to humans. This Columbian ground squirrel was alert yet curious.

We returned to Schaffer Lake by the lower trail, which descended but imposed a return climb. Then Joan and I opted to return to O'Hara by the Big Larches trail.

We had another great day at O'Hara. The following day would be our last hike at his wonderful location.