Hiking Canada 2023: Lake McArthur

Day 9

On July 19th, 2023, Joan and I agreed, "Let's get a good hike in, but also have a bit of a recovery day." To that end, we decided to visit Lake McArthur, taking the Big Larches trail (Route 2) for the first leg, hoping to see some pikas or marmots there.

First, we passed by the shores of Mary Lake.

The Big Larches trail climbs a stone-and-root staircase along the edge of a rubble field, the accumulation of material that's fallen off Mount Schaffer.

On this day, Joan and I didn't spot any pikas or marmots here. We reached Schaffer Lake and, bearing left, continued.

Out of curiosity, we visited the sign-up kiosk for the Odaray Grandview. The pass there is a wildlife corridor, and there are seasonal limits on the number of groups using the Odaray Highline trail. One group had already returned, and we chatted with them. The fourth and final group signed in ~10:30. Joan and I returned to the McArthur Highline trail, and saw a marmot family -- yay! Here's a youngster:

And somebody's keeping an eye on him.

A little over half an hour later, we arrived at Lake McArthur, and found a spot to sit for lunch.

As we ate, we saw a family of ptarmigans foraging. Here's a better panorama of the scene. Today the air was clear.

Another group was down by the lakeshore. That water is cold, by the way. Glacier melt!

Photographers taking pictures of photographers.

In this panorama, we can see a trail at far right.

There's an intersection where a hiker can take the Low Level trail to return, rather than retracting their steps on the Highline, or go a short bit further around the lake.

In a wet year, we've seen that sign with a couple of inches of water at its feet, and in a dry one, more shore exposed.

During our return, we spotted a pika either working diligently on its harvest, or on its lunch.

He paused for a moment.

The return from Lake McArthur first afforded us a view from above, rather than beside, Schaffer Lake.

At this point in the hike, there were too many critters to keep track of. Basking, playing marmots. Foraging pikas. One pika, not six feet away, issued a loud, high-pitched warning call when a bald eagle flew overhead. A mom golden-eye duck and her sole remaining chick sheltered on a rock in the middle of Schaffer.

From here, Joan and I took the trail down to the Elizabeth Parker hut. This route is boring at other times of the year, but today, it was full of flowers, ferns, butterflies, and moths. At the Le Relais camp store, we even bought O'Hara-themed T-shirts. Our hike today was less strenuous than yesterday's trek, but given the views and the wildlife, it was a winner.

Smoke and Snow: Lake McArthur and Trail Meetings

The view from our cabin the next morning (September 11) was exhilarating. Time for breakfast and a hike!

Joan and I decided to head for Lake McArthur via the Big Larches trail.

After walking past a few intersections in the woods we reached the foot of a large talus slope eroded from Mount Schaffer.

Climbing higher we saw Lakes O'Hara and Mary emerge from behind the trees.

Following a muscle-warming climb the trail leveled off and entered woods again. We met Jess, the head chef at Lake O'Hara Lodge, as she was coming down the trail towards us. We told her how much we appreciated and admired the kitchen at O'Hara, and she credited the spirit of teamwork there.

It was the right time of day to capture the setting moon.

At the end of Big Larches we skirted Schaffer Lake, and kept to the left at the next several intersections.

Moseying through the meadow next to the lake, in the sun, looking for birds and mountain goats. Keep those binoculars handy!

Joan and I were passed by a young woman who asked if that lake was Schaffer, and was pleased that she had reached it "already" -- she had walked up from the parking area, 11 km from Lake O'Hara! She did not tarry long for fear of losing her energy level.

This photo was taken near the crest of the climb up to further intersections.

Shortly thereafter the Low-Level Circuit to McArthur split off, and we continued on the McArthur High-Level Circuit. Along the circuit we met Don Gardner, who was shifting and tossing rocks. Who was this? Little did we know. Don, age 71, is a legendary cross-country skier. He first met the master trail builder Lawrence Grassi at age 11. He worked for several years in Greenland as a guide for mining company exploration, and then many years in the Arctic with the Inuit. He was now advising on trail maintenance in return for a ride up from the parking area and a meal. In addition to removing and adjusting rocks, he was noting items, taking videos on his phone for later discussion. He loves to move rocks, which brings out his inner little boy, and showed us some of the techniques he employs to subtly guide hikers to use a preferred foot placement. He recognizes the styles of different trail builders, such as Grassi, and including the absolutely smooth trails put in during the early days, probably by labor gangs from the CPR (Canadian Pacific Railway). This was an encounter we won't soon forget.


Lake McArthur. The combination of sun angle and the camera's stitching of multiple photos for the panorama created a trail of sun ghosts in the upper center of the image!

We found a congenial spot for lunch, and when we were down to the cookies Janette, whom we'd met on arrival day, joined us and we extended the social hour.

 The water had receded this September.

Here's a comparison of water levels from various years.

From the lakeshore Joan and I headed along the Low-Level Circuit for our return.

It starts from Lake McArthur as a shallow valley that gradually grows deeper,

and then plunges before requiring a climb back up to the High-Level Circuit. Along the way we spotted another pika, well camouflaged against the rocks and turf. 

Pikas move in bursts.

On our way back Joan and I stopped to check out the kiosk at the head of the Odaray Highline trail, which crosses to the other side of the valley and up to Odaray Grandview.

The valley is a wildlife corridor, and there are voluntary guidelines limiting the number of parties crossing it, depending on the season, posted at the kiosk. We inspected the log book, and two things stood out:

• people were ignoring the voluntary guidelines; there were too many parties today.
• people had not waited to see if other hikers were coming up, with whom they could combine to form just one party. Joan and I have benefited in the past from folks who waited ten or twenty minutes before pressing on, and we've returned the favor.

It remains to be seen how or if Parks Canada will react to these self-documented breaches. Those who break the rules make it more difficult for those who observe them.

We continued our return via Big Larches -- the alternative trail isn't nearly as interesting -- pleased with our progress in adjusting to the altitude and in toughening up.

CR2016: Lake McArthur and Schäffer Lake

The view from our cabin at Lake O'Hara on July 25th, capped by a hazy sky.

After breakfast our hiking pigs were ready to go.

Our destination was Lake McArthur, via the Big Larches route. This is much more scenic than the trail that goes up from the Elizabeth Parker Hut.

The Big Larches trail works its way through the woods until shortly after Mary Lake, when it skirts the edges of a big rockfall zone under Mount Schäffer.

Often hoary marmots and pikas can be seen here, and after some initial frustration, we did.

This pika kept playing hide-and-seek with us.

Then another marmot showed up.

The Big Larches trail has several uphill stretches, some with stone steps, some not.

Big Larches then passes by the trail to All Souls Prospect, and joins the alternate trail at Schäffer Lake.

We heard pip-pip sounds and located their source, a spotted sandpiper foraging in the shallow water. With this memorable shorebird the male takes the lead in raising the young. 

At Schäffer we also saw some Clark's nutcrackers.

Rather than take the meadow trail, as a change-up Joan and I continued on the higher trail, which at first is like a staircase.

Here the trail is approaching the split between the high level and low level routes.

Another young marmot! Today is a good wildlife day.

The high level trail hugs the steep mountainside.

Another pika sighting! As always, we have our binoculars handy. Now which is cuter, a pika of any age, or a young marmot?

The first of two points in the route that require stepping up.

Here we're approaching the second step.

Soon the trail switched back and Joan and I were climbing through sparse woods.

A small meadow and the last bluff before reaching the lip of the lake basin. In this grassy zone there were several diggings where grizzlies had been clawing ground squirrels out of their dens.

The lake is set back against the walls of an old cirque. There was yet a small walk to get closer.

Near Lake McArthur is an area full of hillocks and rocky slabs, good places to sit and to eat.

A frozen remnant of the ancestral glacier hangs on below Mt. Biddle. The edge reveals layers as if cut by a knife -- click on the image to enlarge.

This wider panorama gives a better view of the ramparts on both sides of the cirque.

We could have returned the way we came,

but we left by the low level trail, making a loop. After wandering through a meadow the low level plunges down into the valley ... and then back up again!

Another marmot visited us.

Arriving back at Schäffer Lake, we saw three baby spotted sandpipers. By now our flower count included moss campion and twisted loosestrife.

Joan and I then decided to go partway up the trail to All Souls Prospect, perhaps to the first bench to offer a good view. We huffed and puffed uphill past white, yellow, and pink heather, and passed a group of women coming back down. Then we arrived at a bench, not really the one we had in mind, but we had fun exploring it nonetheless.

On our return to the foot of All Souls we met the group of women again, who were taking a break. They were members of the Shuswap Lady Striders of Salmon Arm, British Columbia, about 200 miles west of Lake O'Hara. The conversation turned to the upcoming election in the U.S., and by the end, they were offering us a place to stay in Salmon Arm.

Joan and I continued our return along the Big Larches route, and then the Lady Striders caught up to us and passed us. Several commented that this was the first time they had been the passer rather than the passed!

Although the weather had been overcast and unsettled, it was another excellent day at Lake O'Hara.