Canada 2024: On the Odaray Highline

On our way to breakfast on July 13, 2024, Joan and I spotted a vole paddling frantically from a stump in Lake O'Hara to the shore to forage. It did this twice before developing shyness. Small things count among the mountains.

 

We decided to visit the Odaray Highline today, with the option, conditions permitting, of climbing up to the Grandview. We hustled up to the sign-up kiosk,

closed earlier but now open, to sign in -- only four parties were allowed across the gap at this time of year. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

 

As is customary, Joan and I waited a while to see if any other hikers would appear; together we would form one group/disturbance instead of two, however, none did, and we set off. At the far end of the gap, I took this photo pointing southwest towards the Selkirk range.

The trail ahead wound with the mountain slopes to our left, and greenery still a stone's throw to our right (if not in this photo).

A few deeply shaded spots still sheltered snow -- and critter tracks!

Although we spotted few actual critters on the way out (there was one golden-mantled squirrel),

various flowers in various states of emergence and blooming were present, maturity varying according to the altitude, sun exposure, and their genetics. Here was some pink mountain heather.

At the end of a gently rising trail, the way forward on the prospect has been off-limits for a long time due to grizzly bear conflicts.

However, the Grandview trail heads steeply up the mountain, at first with switchbacks. Here's a photo from 2016.

Joan and I began the climb up, but without any intention of reaching the top. After our snow adventures yesterday, and feeling some fatigue after the last several days of hiking, we decided to defer the narrow, sometimes hands-and-feet clambering final stage. Rather, we climbed along until my altimeter watch showed an additional 250' of gain, and found a spot for the first half of our lunch. Along the way we spotted interesting fungi.

Looking back from the start of the climb.

Lake O'Hara is at left.

Other hikers began to arrive, and true early birds came down from the top. No problems with snow, they declared. Still, Joan and I weren't tempted. Next year?

 

A view heading back on the Highline.

As we regained the kiosk, we had a fabulous marmot sighting. This boulder is a favorite of theirs.

Joan and I connected to the McArthur trail and walked a bit before finishing our lunch.

Two young marmots made an appearance!

We also heard pikas, but never spotted them.

A big wind began to blow up the gap, and we decided to return, via the kiosk, down to Schaffer Lake, and then along Big Larches. We needed time to pack anyway, as our luggage would be picked up at 10am the next day, even if we were taking the 4:30pm bus to our car. Packing is never finished, but we had time to attend dinner!

 

Canada 2024: Yukness Ledges Snow Stomping

On July 12, 2024, Joan and I set out to hike the Yukness Ledges alpine route. We headed for the East Opabin trail, the shortest way to reach the west end of the Yukness Ledges route. But our way was blocked by red tape -- snow melt was flooding a creek outlet. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

We turned around and ascended on the West Opabin path instead, encountering both a marmot

and a pika!

So that detour worked very well indeed. We swung past the prospect for a view,

and as we continued on, the theme for the day developed -- meeting people and engaging in conversation. Soon, we encountered a group, some of whom were from Taiwan, and they asked for our help. They had no map; how far was the prospect? An older man (father? grandfather?) is waiting further back for news on which way to go. Joan gave him the best advice.

We crossed to the Highline and were rewarded with an expansive view of the Yukness Ledges.

Joan and I crossed over to the East Opabin trail and thence to the west end of the Yukness Ledges route. The beginning is adventurous, following blazes uphill through a boulder field until a trail is reached. In this panoramic shot, the boulder field is at the left, next to Lake Hungabee, and the trail is on the right.

After a short distance, the Opabin Prospect came into view on our left.

A least weasel carted across behind us; we were in awe of its speed as it dashed over, under, and through these boulder fields.

 

After finding a congenial spot, we sat down for lunch. A group of young women passed by and stopped to chat. They asked, How long have we been married? One of them took this next photo. Then a newlywed couple came up and asked us how long we'd been married. The theme was continued ...

We had not coordinated our outfits ...

The north-facing slope, rarely seeing direct sunlight, was where the snow traps were lurking. At first, they were merely close to the trail. The blue-and-yellow trail blaze is in the middle of the green circle in this photo. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

Another snowy view.

At the midpoint, hikers traveling in the other direction warned us of a dicey stretch, which we soon encountered. Snow was across the trail over a dip where it wiggled through talus and broken boulders. The terrain, we knew, had voids within the tumbled rock where a misstep could cause serious injury, but we could not see them. Joan and I continued cautiously, gripping our poles tightly, and did not come to any harm; however, I did not indulge in photography there.

We continued on and the snow intrusions withdrew. The path turned a corner and we began to draw closer to Lake Oesa.

Before the final hop up to the lake level, more snow was hidden on the approach. It's all about shadows and sunlight.

The near lake shore was snow-free, and the ice on the water had begun to retreat.

Returning to O'Hara on the Oesa trail, we encountered this snowbound sign and trail at the Victoria Lake cutoff. The snow wasn't through with us yet, but this was its last hurrah.

The series of ponds and lakes we'd passed gave way here to a torrent of melting snow.

Looking back the way we'd come.

From a lower altitude, here's a last look at the Yukness Ledges that we'd just navigated.

Joan and I reached our cabin just before 5:00pm. We were seated with Bob and Brenda again at dinner, replete with tales of their time in Malaysia. A fitting wrap-up of today's conversational theme!

Hiking Canada 2023: Eiffel Lake

 On July 22nd, 2023, Joan and I spent our first day at Moraine Lake hiking to Eiffel Lake. We had done this the year before but wanted to go further towards the lake this time. Plus, the conditions were much better than the snow-clogged 2018 attempt.

The hike began on a shared path with the route to Larch Valley. Once past the split, the early part of the Eiffel trail is wooded and thins as you proceed out and up. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

Here, other hikers are ahead of us.

A ground squirrel was keeping watch.

I took no pictures as we proceeded up the valley, but took this photo at our lunch stop/turnaround point. (To descend to Eiffel Lake requires a circuitous route down to the far side.) Our quest for a better view was satisfied.

An inquisitive pika investigated us continually as we sat there.

The beginning of the return was through mostly open terrain. We spotted a lazy marmot sunning off the trail.

As we passed, it turned to present only its rear end to us.

Joan and I continued hiking and re-entered the wooded section. The slope on either side of the path remained steep. Then, steady but unhurried, a mama grizzly and her yearling cub appeared on the path ahead. Coming towards us. Joan and I stepped off the path on the uphill side, and I pulled out my bear spray just in case. Mama came closer, glanced at us, and stepped off the path to the downhill side. She continued her rhythmic pace, but the youngster was curious. He looked at us. He took one step towards us. Joan wondered what mom would do if we had to spray her cub?

 

But mom had trained him well, and he joined her on the other side of the path. The duo passed behind some boulders across from us. The irrepressible youngster popped up again from behind the rocks, wishing he could check us out closer, but mom simply continued her stroll. Once well behind us, she crossed the path and began climbing up the slope, junior in tow. I holstered my bear spray.

Back at the lodge, we reported our adventure. "Oh," the guy at the desk said, "that's bear #142. She's well known around here." (In fact, she was spotted near Moraine Lake itself the next day.) Moraine Lake has so many visitors, we realized, that any bear who prefers this high valley must be accustomed to humans. It's up to us to not panic and do something stupid.

Hiking Canada 2023: Lake McArthur

Day 9

On July 19th, 2023, Joan and I agreed, "Let's get a good hike in, but also have a bit of a recovery day." To that end, we decided to visit Lake McArthur, taking the Big Larches trail (Route 2) for the first leg, hoping to see some pikas or marmots there.

First, we passed by the shores of Mary Lake.

The Big Larches trail climbs a stone-and-root staircase along the edge of a rubble field, the accumulation of material that's fallen off Mount Schaffer.

On this day, Joan and I didn't spot any pikas or marmots here. We reached Schaffer Lake and, bearing left, continued.

Out of curiosity, we visited the sign-up kiosk for the Odaray Grandview. The pass there is a wildlife corridor, and there are seasonal limits on the number of groups using the Odaray Highline trail. One group had already returned, and we chatted with them. The fourth and final group signed in ~10:30. Joan and I returned to the McArthur Highline trail, and saw a marmot family -- yay! Here's a youngster:

And somebody's keeping an eye on him.

A little over half an hour later, we arrived at Lake McArthur, and found a spot to sit for lunch.

As we ate, we saw a family of ptarmigans foraging. Here's a better panorama of the scene. Today the air was clear.

Another group was down by the lakeshore. That water is cold, by the way. Glacier melt!

Photographers taking pictures of photographers.

In this panorama, we can see a trail at far right.

There's an intersection where a hiker can take the Low Level trail to return, rather than retracting their steps on the Highline, or go a short bit further around the lake.

In a wet year, we've seen that sign with a couple of inches of water at its feet, and in a dry one, more shore exposed.

During our return, we spotted a pika either working diligently on its harvest, or on its lunch.

He paused for a moment.

The return from Lake McArthur first afforded us a view from above, rather than beside, Schaffer Lake.

At this point in the hike, there were too many critters to keep track of. Basking, playing marmots. Foraging pikas. One pika, not six feet away, issued a loud, high-pitched warning call when a bald eagle flew overhead. A mom golden-eye duck and her sole remaining chick sheltered on a rock in the middle of Schaffer.

From here, Joan and I took the trail down to the Elizabeth Parker hut. This route is boring at other times of the year, but today, it was full of flowers, ferns, butterflies, and moths. At the Le Relais camp store, we even bought O'Hara-themed T-shirts. Our hike today was less strenuous than yesterday's trek, but given the views and the wildlife, it was a winner.