Canada 2024: On the Odaray Highline

On our way to breakfast on July 13, 2024, Joan and I spotted a vole paddling frantically from a stump in Lake O'Hara to the shore to forage. It did this twice before developing shyness. Small things count among the mountains.

 

We decided to visit the Odaray Highline today, with the option, conditions permitting, of climbing up to the Grandview. We hustled up to the sign-up kiosk,

closed earlier but now open, to sign in -- only four parties were allowed across the gap at this time of year. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

 

As is customary, Joan and I waited a while to see if any other hikers would appear; together we would form one group/disturbance instead of two, however, none did, and we set off. At the far end of the gap, I took this photo pointing southwest towards the Selkirk range.

The trail ahead wound with the mountain slopes to our left, and greenery still a stone's throw to our right (if not in this photo).

A few deeply shaded spots still sheltered snow -- and critter tracks!

Although we spotted few actual critters on the way out (there was one golden-mantled squirrel),

various flowers in various states of emergence and blooming were present, maturity varying according to the altitude, sun exposure, and their genetics. Here was some pink mountain heather.

At the end of a gently rising trail, the way forward on the prospect has been off-limits for a long time due to grizzly bear conflicts.

However, the Grandview trail heads steeply up the mountain, at first with switchbacks. Here's a photo from 2016.

Joan and I began the climb up, but without any intention of reaching the top. After our snow adventures yesterday, and feeling some fatigue after the last several days of hiking, we decided to defer the narrow, sometimes hands-and-feet clambering final stage. Rather, we climbed along until my altimeter watch showed an additional 250' of gain, and found a spot for the first half of our lunch. Along the way we spotted interesting fungi.

Looking back from the start of the climb.

Lake O'Hara is at left.

Other hikers began to arrive, and true early birds came down from the top. No problems with snow, they declared. Still, Joan and I weren't tempted. Next year?

 

A view heading back on the Highline.

As we regained the kiosk, we had a fabulous marmot sighting. This boulder is a favorite of theirs.

Joan and I connected to the McArthur trail and walked a bit before finishing our lunch.

Two young marmots made an appearance!

We also heard pikas, but never spotted them.

A big wind began to blow up the gap, and we decided to return, via the kiosk, down to Schaffer Lake, and then along Big Larches. We needed time to pack anyway, as our luggage would be picked up at 10am the next day, even if we were taking the 4:30pm bus to our car. Packing is never finished, but we had time to attend dinner!

 

CR2016: A Huber Ledges Round Trip

The next day, July 28th, Joan and I began a double Huber Ledges day by heading around the southern end of Lake O'Hara. This photo looks across the south arm of the lake to the peninsula with our cabin.

An overview of today's trails, and our start.

We continued on to Lake Oesa. On the way we saw lots of beardtongue.

A peek at All Souls Prospect. We aren't going there today.

Joan and I took the direct route to Lake Oesa.

Arriving at the lake,

we spotted researchers taking measurements of the waters.

We swung around onto the Huber Ledges trail, aiming for Wiwaxy Gap.

Early on I took this panoramic view back.

This was the way ahead, with Wiwaxy being in the saddle of the ridgeline.

Taken from the same spot, this picture shows much of the Victoria Lake Cutoff on the side of Yukness Mountain, starting with a beige thread through the greenery at the bottom. Click on the image to enlarge.

Zooming in on the junction between the cutoff and the Yukness Ledges trail reveals two hikers in the lower left corner.

The trail blazes on the Huber Ledges helped us avoid taking less desirable routes.

The wet weather of the past weeks had created miniature waterfalls along the trail, and lush green carpets of moss.

Near Wiwaxy Gap we heard and then saw a golden-mantled ground squirrel vigorously scolding and chasing off a competitor. Afterwards he sprawled under a rock and dug out a little dirt.

He approached us, probably looking for a handout.

Here's proof that we reached the gap.

This was the spot for a well-deserved lunch.

Rather than take the steep Wiwaxy trail down to Lake O'Hara, Joan and I retraced our steps to Oesa on the ledges. The view is always different coming from the other direction. There's one location in particular where it's important to stay with the trail blaze, as Joan demonstrated, rather than take the alluring path just below.

This panoramic view from the Huber Ledges covers almost everything: Lake Oesa and its satellite lakes, the Yukness Ledges, the cataract pouring down from the Opabin Plateau just left of the Opabin Prospect, All Souls Prospect, McArthur Pass, and Odaray. Not to mention Lake O'Hara.

Some summer we'll come back to O'Hara and these blocks will be gone, perhaps having bounded down to the Lake Oesa trailside.

At this point the hike became a wildlife bonanza. This is perhaps a young winter wren.

A young pika.

Just after reaching the Oesa junction we saw a Japanese couple taking pictures of rocks, but then we saw that there was a ptarmigan.

At least four youngsters, some still with fuzzy down, popped in and out among the rocks as they grazed (buds, leaves, berries) or hunted (insects).

Mom kept up her various calls, including "I am here" and possibly also "Come to me." This chick wasn't paying close attention.

This panoramic view shows the Japanese couple, preparing to take a selfie with a Canadian flag, and in lower left one of the ptarmigans!

The clouds became denser as Joan and I descended towards Lake O'Hara, but we suffered only a few drops before we reached our cabin at 4:10. Later there was a five-minute hard rain.

That evening was our final O'Hara dinner of this visit. So soon!

CR2012: Morning Glory, Linda, and Cathedral Lakes

Our training goal for the next day, compared to the preceding days, was a longer hike with fewer steep sections. We decided on going to Linda and Cathedral Lakes, but, because we were not going as far as Monica Lake, which we did the previous year, we started the hike from our cabin instead of taking the bus to the Linda Lake junction.

The first trail segment is called the Morning Glory Lakes trail, and it winds for a long, long time (especially on the return) through the forest on the outskirts of Odaray Mountain.

After a while the path goes around a shoulder and begins to descend to the Morning Glory Lakes. Here is a picture taken as we drew closer to the middle lake.

We continued down and around the left side of the lake, encountering a rich grove of flowers in that sunny, moist environment.

The trail was briefly in the open. Cathedral Mountain ruled the horizon.

We soon faced a choice between the Linda Lakes Beeline trail, which switchbacks directly over the moraine in the photo above, and a more circuitous route via the Morning Glory Valley.

We intended to resolve a mystery, so we knew we were taking the Morning Glory Valley connector. There is a Linda Lake Circuit, a way to circumambulate the lake. This explanation may be clearer if I first provide a map:

The link on the east side of the lake, connecting the northern and southern arms of the Linda Lake trail, had apparently disappeared in our earlier visits. We felt this way because the trail sign where the southern arm and the eastern link should join points only down the southern arm, and a log or two crosses the unlabeled, faint link trail heading north, as if that path is considered 'discontinued.' But we thought we had seen a different indication, last year, at the sign at the junction of the eastern link and the northern arm. We were going to revisit that spot and take any trail south, no matter how tenuous, to discover what now existed.

Arriving at the northeast junction, we inspected this sign. It shows the Linda Lake Circuit heading both west and south.

We headed south. On that narrow trail we had to brush past tree limbs a few times.

We were definitely making our way down the east side of a lake.

As you can see from Google Maps, the main body of Linda Lake is connected to this long, skinny arm.

View Larger Map

We paused at a good place for a rest stop. I found the clarity, aquamarine color, and hypnotic waves of the lake here worth a short video.

Clarity, Color, and Waves on the East Side of the Linda Lake Circuit from Ben Branch on Vimeo.

The arm of the lake then disappeared, except for perhaps in wetter seasons. We walked through a flowered meadow, and soon arrived at the trail sign for the southeast corner of the circuit.

As you can see, the sign indicates only a passage to the west on the Linda Lake Circuit, with no mention of the east link. A log still blocked the lightly-traveled link. We had resolved the question of whether the east link still existed -- it does -- but not the question of why it seems to have been wiped off the books at this intersection.

After a short walk to the west, we arrived at the shores of Linda Lake. This point gives a wide view of the main body of the lake.

As we made our way along the south shore, I saw this patch of moss, a sapling, and a paintbrush just offshore, and something in its existence in an environment of rock and water appealed to me. It's almost an aquatic bonsai.

The trail passes near the edge of the lake, which can make the ground soft, and then starts to climb a small, rocky moraine. The view of Linda Lake from its southwest corner is one of the best you can get without climbing a mountain.

The structure of the rock pile here -- not too large, not too small -- makes it a favorite of pikas.

We decided to lunch here, and saw a wonderful floor show, including this golden-mantled ground squirrel. He has stuffed his cheeks to overflowing.

Our pika friend stayed busy harvesting as well.

OK, one more pika picture. When they emit their clear, carrying, high-pitched "eeeeep!", they put their whole body into it:

After lunch we marched on, taking the Cathedral Lakes trail, which continues up the Duchesnay Basin.

We paused at the outflow of the largest of the Cathedral Lakes; I took this picture on a footbridge over Duchesnay Creek.

Then it was time to turn around and begin the long walk back to Lake O'Hara. At the moraine where we had eaten, this time there was a pair of hoary marmots to greet us.

The previous winter's deposits were melting in the late July sun, and pouring off Odaray Mountain/Glacier.

Then it was time for the long slog back along the Morning Glory Trail. It was good training; our feet were sore by the time we reached our cabin, but we had been privileged to see gorgeous lakes, flowers, and animals today, under perfect skies.