Canada 2024: On the Odaray Highline

On our way to breakfast on July 13, 2024, Joan and I spotted a vole paddling frantically from a stump in Lake O'Hara to the shore to forage. It did this twice before developing shyness. Small things count among the mountains.

 

We decided to visit the Odaray Highline today, with the option, conditions permitting, of climbing up to the Grandview. We hustled up to the sign-up kiosk,

closed earlier but now open, to sign in -- only four parties were allowed across the gap at this time of year. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

 

As is customary, Joan and I waited a while to see if any other hikers would appear; together we would form one group/disturbance instead of two, however, none did, and we set off. At the far end of the gap, I took this photo pointing southwest towards the Selkirk range.

The trail ahead wound with the mountain slopes to our left, and greenery still a stone's throw to our right (if not in this photo).

A few deeply shaded spots still sheltered snow -- and critter tracks!

Although we spotted few actual critters on the way out (there was one golden-mantled squirrel),

various flowers in various states of emergence and blooming were present, maturity varying according to the altitude, sun exposure, and their genetics. Here was some pink mountain heather.

At the end of a gently rising trail, the way forward on the prospect has been off-limits for a long time due to grizzly bear conflicts.

However, the Grandview trail heads steeply up the mountain, at first with switchbacks. Here's a photo from 2016.

Joan and I began the climb up, but without any intention of reaching the top. After our snow adventures yesterday, and feeling some fatigue after the last several days of hiking, we decided to defer the narrow, sometimes hands-and-feet clambering final stage. Rather, we climbed along until my altimeter watch showed an additional 250' of gain, and found a spot for the first half of our lunch. Along the way we spotted interesting fungi.

Looking back from the start of the climb.

Lake O'Hara is at left.

Other hikers began to arrive, and true early birds came down from the top. No problems with snow, they declared. Still, Joan and I weren't tempted. Next year?

 

A view heading back on the Highline.

As we regained the kiosk, we had a fabulous marmot sighting. This boulder is a favorite of theirs.

Joan and I connected to the McArthur trail and walked a bit before finishing our lunch.

Two young marmots made an appearance!

We also heard pikas, but never spotted them.

A big wind began to blow up the gap, and we decided to return, via the kiosk, down to Schaffer Lake, and then along Big Larches. We needed time to pack anyway, as our luggage would be picked up at 10am the next day, even if we were taking the 4:30pm bus to our car. Packing is never finished, but we had time to attend dinner!

 

Back to Canada: Big Larches and Odaray Highline

July 16. Joan and I spotted a pair of mergansers on our way to breakfast at Lake O'Hara. (Click on the image to enlarge).

The contrast between the illuminated mountains and shadowed lake was intense.

When we first set out on today's hike our goal was Lake McArthur, starting with the Big Larches trail, a good one for spotting marmots or pikas.

A very short detour allowed us to admire Mary Lake on our way.

The Big Larches trail begins with a stair-step climb adjacent to a large scree field, where we'd often seen pikas before. In this photo, we've come high enough to see both Mary Lake and Lake O'Hara.

The rocks are bigger than they look.

Joan spotted one pika's little rear end as it disappeared into the rocks, but otherwise this section was quiet. After the climb, the trail was more lateral with occasional remnant snow patches.

We passed by the trail to All Souls Prospect and arrived at Schaffer Lake.

From here, we had a choice of paths. Joan and I took the right-hand option, through the "meadow" to the sign-in kiosk for the Odaray Highline trail. Nearing the kiosk, we saw a family of marmots foraging, including a youngster perched atop a huge rock, a boulder, that always seemed marmot-ed.

Although we were headed for McArthur, we were curious how many groups had signed in for Odaray, which has a (voluntary) limit on how many groups per day use the trail -- four at this time of year -- for it is a known grizzly bear route. There was only one group signed in! This called for a change of plans, to take advantage of this opportunity.
 

There were pikas galore on this trail.

How cute can you get?

From a brief stretch of trail the distant Goodsir mountain range was visible to the west.

A cluster of western anemone, with visitors.

We reached the point where the Highline ends,

and the Grandview trail begins its steep, narrow uphill slog to a spectacular viewpoint. Given conflicting reports of how much snow cover lay on that challenging trail, we chose this as our turnaround point.

Joan and I found a good sit-spot for lunch, a few yards up the Grandview trail, with a view of lakes O'Hara and Schaffer, with the All Souls Prospect between them.

Let's zoom in on O'Hara ...

and Schaffer.

Lunch finished, it was time to mosey back. A view along the trail.

I took a photo of this host boulder back in the gap between Odaray and McArthur.

For the sake of variety, we decided to take the other trail down from the gap to Schaffer Lake.

There's a better view that way.

A group hiking up this trail alerted us to mountain goats on the slopes of Mt. Schaffer! This is a critter we don't often spot.

They are in the middle of shedding their winter coats, and look rather ragged. There's a youngster amongst them. Here's another photo of the goats, after they'd moved. Don't forget to click on the image to enlarge.

Pikas, marmots, goats, and views -- what a hike!

 

To add even more to the day, it being a Saturday, after dinner the O'Hara staff put on a show. The cast:

Snapshots of a few of the acts. We had music, dancing, and humor.

A clogger.

The skit of the Three Wise Men. An audience member shouts out a question, and the three wise men must answer by each adding a few words, with suppressed giggles in-between, back and forth until they end up having constructed a rambling, humorous, or nonsensical response.

The show wrapped up a marvelous day.

Canada (2019) Part Four -- Views and Surprises

Sept. 12th began with cloudy skies. Today's goal was Lake McArthur, and having already done the Big Larches trail and its stone steps, we took the more utilitarian Schaeffer Lake trail via the Parker Hut.

The trail was enhanced by autumnal wildflowers.

A closeup of a paintbrush.

When we reached the meadow next to Schaeffer Lake we could see mountain goats over on Odaray mountain. This was an auspicious start! (Click on the image to enlarge.)

Out of curiosity we stopped at the sign-in kiosk for the Odaray Highline. From this point a trail to the left heads towards McArthur, and to the right a trail crosses the gap to the Highline. That section is restricted due to the pass's being a wildlife corridor, especially for bears. From August 15th to September 15th only two groups per day should cross to the Highline. Amazingly, although Joan and I aren't the swiftest hikers nobody had signed in yet, even though it was after 10:30. This was an opportunity not to miss. We waited to see if anyone else would show up, to form a single group for the crossing. No one did. We advanced as clouds and fog rolled into the pass.

There was a creature ahead, sitting atop a boulder.

That little bump on the right midway up.

We inched closer and I used my zoom to get a better look.

In fact, we spotted four marmots of the year. Not having seen any marmots this visit, and knowing that the odds of seeing one in September were lower, Joan and I were thrilled.

Not to be outdone, a pika showed up.

The Odaray Highline trail emerged from the rock piles and became a pleasant, gently rising stroll. The Lake O'Hara basin was often visible below; the mists had departed but it was overcast and breezy. Dress warmly.

The Highline ends at a bend in the mountain's profile. Long ago, in the 1970s, it continued on to the Odaray Prospect, but after a bear incident (they are fond of hunting goats there) the area became off-limits to hikers.

Here we adjusted our layers for a body-warming clamber up to the Grandview. The trail turned sharply left and began a steep climb, and soon we met three women coming down who hadn't signed into the kiosk. We later discovered that they'd signed in for the wrong day!

The path narrowed and clung to the face of the mountain, and during the final third a few places begged for my hands to grab something to ensure my equilibrium. But it was worth it. 

When we broke out onto the height there was a choice, to proceed left and continue a gentle scree-littered ascent, or straight ahead a short distance for another view. We went straight.

Linda Lake below center, O'Hara valley and access road far right.

After gawking here we continued up the slope to one of the favored spots for a stunning panorama in the other direction. Small cairns and a rock windscreen erected by previous hikers were scattered about.

Left to right: Lakes O'Hara, Schaeffer, and, up high, McArthur. Alpine routes visible in binos.

We drank it in and took photos, including the stratified glacier even higher up.

The wind was brutally cold up here on the flanks of the mountain, forcing us to reluctantly descend before having lunch. Just before reaching the Highline Joan and I happily sat on some rocks and munched.

We retraced the Highline and caught up with a group of five admiring a fearless young marmot; they had gone as far as the closed zone sign and then turned around. 

When Joan and I reached the pass we decided to continue past the sign-in kiosk and join the Lake McArthur route briefly for our return to Schaeffer Lake. The choice was a gift as we were treated to multiple pikas,

and a full-grown marmot.

I'm ready for my close-up.

 Today's wildlife was a highlight of this O'Hara visit.

Schaeffer Lake came into view.

Just beyond the shores of the lake the switchback descent to O'Hara would begin.

 Soon we were back at our cabin. After dinner we began the task of organizing all that had exploded out of our duffels over the last five days, for tomorrow afternoon we must say goodbye and take the bus 11 kilometers down to our car.