Tuesday, May 19, 2026

Canadian Rockies 2025: Rainy Day, Then Wiwaxy!

July 22nd was a rainy day; never heavy, sometimes quite light. Not trusting to luck, Joan and I wore rain pants, a jacket, and even a waterproof backpack, despite its limitations. We walked around Lake O'Hara clockwise, the long way to start a climb towards Opabin, and took the west trail up. From the prospect, views of Mary Lake and O'Hara were on offer. (Click on any image to enlarge.)
From here we wandered up the Opabin Plateau's middle path, hoping to see pikas or marmots, and keeping an eye out for a dry place to lunch. Finally, snug under our "traditional lunch tree" near Lake Hungabee, we dined in chilly weather. At the end of our meal, a woman with two young folks from the UK came up. Joan and I chatted with them, and then volunteered the location. We descended on the east trail and, on reaching Lake O'Hara, the intermittent drizzle began to let up. The ducks were out.
Better weather continued to move in. After dinner, Joan and I spent time admiring the lake and mountain views from the O'Hara lakeshore.
Zooming in on the Seven Falls in the photo above.
Mountain ranges and 
misty peaks caught our eye.
Tomorrow, we resolved, we'd head up there -- to Wiwaxy Gap, of notorious steepness. The trail gains just under 1700 feet with an average grade of ~14%, with some gentler and some even steeper stretches. The steepness is so notorious that very, very few come directly down, but traverse to Lake Oesa instead.
 
July 23rd was a cheerful day. Off we went to the Wiwaxy Gap trailhead, and began climbing. Here's a first look back towards O'Hara as we zig-zag up the side of an avalanche gully. (There are views all the way up!)
Twelve minutes later, some hard-won progress.
More huffing and puffing -- although we felt stronger than expected, many of the young and strong passed us; we passed a few.
Then switchback after switchback. Getting near the top, we could see the chain of lakes heading up to Oesa.
At the gap!
A view towards other lakes ... our next leg of this hike, the Huber Ledges.
From here you can also see the Sleeping Poets pool, a reclusive pond hidden above the Yukness Ledges.
I asked Joan to pose in front of one of the Wiwaxy peaks.
Up here it was chilly, and we donned our rain jackets to stay warm. It was time to grab a snack, a fraction of our lunch fixings.
One group of hikers headed out on the ledges ahead of us.
Click on any image to enlarge. 
The Huber Ledges require attention. There's one spot where we lost the trail, the same spot as the last time we did the Huber Ledges. A dad with two boys came along and said he'd seen a video recommending that if you lose the trail, head up. We briefly backtracked and found the route. It really needs a blaze or two at that point. In this photo, the easily navigated last third is visible.
A look back to the gap.
This panorama goes from Oesa to O'Hara, with the Yukness Ledges in the center.
We passed a hiker who had overtaken us at Wiwaxy by proceeding nonstop through the gap. He had stopped to fix lunch along the trail, an instant pasta meal heated over a cookstove! We continued our descent.
 
Soon, a curious marmot appeared.
It was the least concerned about us -- probably spoiled by other hikers' handouts.
Oesa, at last! The smooth rocks near the lake beckon us to come and sit awhile.
We continued our descent, pausing at the extraordinarily clear waters of Lake Victoria.
Not long after, we spotted a lazing marmot.
Twenty minutes later, another marmot dashed across our path,
then turned to stare at us from the rocks. Peek-a-boo!
Fatigue was creeping into our cadence and balance, but we managed to carry on. A light shower began partway along the O'Hara lakeshore, not far from our cabin, and we picked up our pace. Mission accomplished!