Canada 2024: Bow Falls

On July 19th, 2024, Joan and I hiked to Bow Falls. (Composing this report is especially poignant because of the rockfall in June of 2025 at Bow Falls that killed two and injured several.) We had done this hike many years ago, in September, and the water flow in that season had not impressed us. Despite a two-week dry spell, the view from the lodge suggested that it might be better now.

 

The route began with the lakeside trail adjacent to the Lodge at Bow Falls. (Clock on any image to enlarge.)

The falls were visible in the distance.

That white streak in the center.

Clearer, perhaps, with a good zoom.

Along the way, we spotted a meadow fritillary.

Five minutes later, a very relaxed marmot basked on a rock.

I also stopped to grab this mirror-image scene.

Soon, the trail began dodging and weaving, sometimes above the river bed amongst the trees, and sometimes down on the flood plain. The transitions up and down were often steep.

The ascent changed character as we approached the tall steps.

Parts of them were being rebuilt ...

Then the route to the alpine hut split off from the trail to the falls.

The alpine route is on the other side of the rushing water. To go from one trail to the other, hikers must scramble over a boulder wedged into the gorge! Joan and I had crossed it in the other direction during our long-ago visit, but to cross from this side is a task we wouldn't care to tackle, especially when encumbered by a daypack. (Now in 2025, the trail to the falls is closed beyond this point.)

Bigger than it looks; you must heist yourself up.

Soon, the falls came into view, although we weren't there yet!

This panoramic view shows Bow Falls, right, and the valley leading to the hut, left.

A descent took us to the rocky, creek-cut approach to the falls. In this picture, two hikers have found a good spot to rest and watch.

But many folks went higher/closer. The falls generated a cool out-flowing breeze and thunderous noise.

 

Some nestled close to the water.

Joan and I made a close approach to experience the falls, then retreated to more suitable ground for our lunch, but still high enough to look back at the lodge.

Then it was time to return. With the extra afternoon melt, the water in the valley was wider.

A very elaborate footbridge, perhaps to cope with varying river levels.

Our footsteps hastened as clouds gathered and thunder began to rumble. We reached the lodge just before the first in a series of rain showers burst. We'd had an excellent hike, with more exercise and hiking adventure than expected!

From our 4th-floor room, the evening view down Bow Lake was magnificent.

The next day, July 20th, was a multi-stop journey on the way to Calgary. This included choosing among the wonderful chocolates at Le Chocolatier in Canmore, having lunch at Aama Nepalese restaurant in Cochrane, dropping off the rental car, and checking in at the airport hotel. Our 2024 Canadian expedition was a success; on the 21st, we flew home. 

Canada 2024: Lake McArthur, frozen

On July 10th, 2024, Joan and I aimed our hike toward Lake McArthur, Joan's father's favorite lake. As usual, we ascended via the Big Larches (what I sometimes call the "big steps") route. After leaving the O'Hara lakeshore, a couple of intersections must be negotiated. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

After the first intersection, we passed Mary Lake.

Then, it was time to avoid being lured toward the ACC Hut route; we find the Big Larches route more scenic.

That trail soon winds alongside an imposing talus slope, takes a sharp left, and begins a tall climb.

Joan and I like to pause several times on this ascent, not only to catch our breath: there is always a chance of spotting a marmot or a pika dashing through the rocky landscape. Sadly, none showed themselves today. We did spot an interesting rock slab, a change from the usual chunky stones.

Ripples and trails from the distant past!

The view began to open up towards Lake O'Hara and Mount Huber.

Finally, the trail turned right and became more or less level. After passing the All Souls trail we soon emerged on the shores of Schaffer Lake.

We took the route forward that would take us to the Odaray Highline sign-in kiosk. We passed by this intriguing split boulder.

The kiosk was still closed for the winter, but (spoiler alert) Parks Canada would unwrap it in the next day or two.

Joan and I then crossed over to the McArthur Highline. This trail winds its way through talus slopes and, today, occasional snow patches.

A few moments later, we spotted this marmot.

A cluster of moss campion was sending forth blooms.

The trail pitched over two tall steps, then switchbacked up to the lip of the lake basin and traversed this meadow.

Our outbound route, in green:

Joan and I found a vantage point to have lunch and view the icebound lake. We enjoyed watching the changing light on its surface, speckled with open water, white patches, and almost melted ice of varying hues.

Click on the image to enlarge.

It's easy to go down to the lakeshore, but stay on the trails! Past trespassers have beaten eroding paths that the National Park is trying to restore.

Along the shore, we met a mom and daughter, who gave us sunglasses, left behind by lodge guests, for us to turn in. Then there was a mom and son who were trying to (eventually) test the water temperature. Mom waded in deeper than the youth!

 

This signpost is our unofficial lake-gauge. The water was surprisingly low, perhaps due to the delayed spring melt.

We had heard deep patches of snow lingered on the low route, so we returned on the high route. We met Brenda and her husband in the Alpine Meadow, with whom we chatted all the way to Le Relais, a short walk from our cabin.

 

Tomorrow would be a more ambitious hike Joan and I hadn't tackled since 2011 -- Monica Lake.

Back to Canada: Lake McArthur and Mountain Goats

When Joan and I awoke on July 19, 2022, clouds were scraping the high peaks, but after breakfast, pockets of blue rent the gray blanket. Somehow, it didn't feel threatening, even if the air was colder today.

We decided to visit Lake McArthur, feeling used and stiff after yesterday's cross-country hurdles and off-kilter bridges. Using the Big Larches route, we ascended and looked back at O'Hara. Few critters were visible in the rock pile today, and those were fleeting glimpses.

From Schaffer Lake, we took the left-hand trail, close to the flanks of Mount Schaffer.

Joan and I began to meet other hikers (but not in this photo),

then chose to use the Highline trail to McArthur.

Moss campion with blooms!

There are two high "steps" along the Highline, but they aren't as bad as they look. Here's a photo from 2019.

We encountered a browsing marmot on the last stretch before spotting the lake, and he completely ignored us, intent on his meal.

Then Lake McArthur spread out before us.

Joan and I picked out a high perch for lunch. Viewing opportunities cascade down all the way to the lake's surface.

This was the view from our sit-spot.

A closeup of the receding glacier's face. Click on the image to enlarge it and see the many seasonal layers.

A newly arrived couple pointed out mountain goats on the distant slopes of Mount Schaffer. Binoculars revealed incomplete shedding of their winter coats.

Perhaps they stayed so far away out of embarrassment for their bedraggled appearance. With slim pickings to browse on, the goats kept wandering to the next green patch.

The lunch was a rousing success. We loaned binoculars to a woman lunching near us, who had also seen "our" earlier marmot.

 

Every time we visit McArthur, I take a photo at a sign that, in 2012, stood in a few inches of water.

But not this time.

The critters up  here are accustomed to humans. This Columbian ground squirrel was alert yet curious.

We returned to Schaffer Lake by the lower trail, which descended but imposed a return climb. Then Joan and I opted to return to O'Hara by the Big Larches trail.

We had another great day at O'Hara. The following day would be our last hike at his wonderful location.