Hiking Canada 2023: Moraine Lake Highline

July 24, 2023, was our transfer day away from Moraine Lake, but Joan and I didn't need to leave until 2:00, so we decided to take a stroll on the trail paralleling the access road, the Moraine Lake Highline. It's open to both hikers and cyclists. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

We aimed to reach a fabulous viewpoint with panoramic vistas that hover over the Moraine river/creek valley. We hadn't made it that far the previous year.

 

At times, we could look toward the Consolation Lakes valley.

Early on there was some damage to the trail, easily walked around.

The route parallels the road, sometimes closer, sometimes further away.

Open areas speckled the forest as we climbed towards the viewpoint.

Some of the flowers were still early in their season.

We enjoyed a shifting, always panoramic view.

Looking back the way we'd come.

During our return we encountered other hikers and were passed by a mountain bike. Joan and I had a light lunch at the lodge, where the crowds never abated. Moraine Lake is a perpetual motion machine.

Then it was time to depart. Getting on Highway 1A, the more scenic route than the Trans-Canada (Highway 1), consumed extra time due to construction at the intersection. On the 1A, we encountered a myriad of motorcyclists, including two towing miniature classic cars! To reach Storm Mountain Lodge, our base for the next four overnights, we turned south onto Highway 93, which was extra busy with car and double-trailer truck traffic because of repaving work on Highway 1. This rerouted mob was climbing towards Vermilion Pass (~5600 ft.) and bound for Radium, Windemere, or as a long detour to Golden. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

But we had enough time and had no problem cleaning up for our dinner reservation at Storm Mountain.

 

The next day, we'll tackle a back door to the Inkpots and beyond.

Hiking Canada 2023: Sentinel Pass!

On July 23, 2023, Joan and I set out determined to tackle Sentinel Pass, above Moraine Lake, a goal that had thwarted us in 2018. As this map shows, our first job was to climb the switchbacks of the Larches trail. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

We soon encountered a browsing deer.

Then, some just-blooming fireweed.

Joan and I kept to the right at the junction with the Eiffel Lake trail, continuing to climb. Above his burrow, a ground squirrel was on watch.

Seconds later, we crossed a dry runoff.

Then the view opened as we entered an elevated valley, quite different from 2018's snow-draped presentation.

Ten thousand foot peaks lined the view.

The trail re-entered the woods, and the climb continued until we reached level ground at the foot of Sentinel Pass and its lakes.

We were close enough to see the trail's trace in the scree slope, and paused to ingest a snack.

You must click on this one.

A glance back to the lake as Joan and I began the climb.

Accustomed to dodgy footing on climbs such as Wiwaxy Gap, we were not deterred, and being in good shape after all our previous hikes, we deemed Sentinel Pass "not that bad." The ascent is not as long or arduous as it looks from the bottom.

The route down the other side, to Paradise Valley, looked genuinely perilous. Especially that initial drop.

And Paradise Valley is a much longer route with more elevation change.

A permanent ad-hoc windbreak had been built.

But there were alternative sit-spots.

We found one and had our second lunch, with clear skies and contrails.

Now it was time to go back down, often more dangerous than climbing up in these mountains.

We made it,

and had time to pause and enjoy the views now in front of us.

Zooming in ...

Some glaciers appeared ready to plummet at any time, or at least shed a chunk.

Joan and I finished retracing our steps down to Moraine Lake, ecstatic at finally having mastered Sentinel Pass.

Hiking Canada 2023: Eiffel Lake

 On July 22nd, 2023, Joan and I spent our first day at Moraine Lake hiking to Eiffel Lake. We had done this the year before but wanted to go further towards the lake this time. Plus, the conditions were much better than the snow-clogged 2018 attempt.

The hike began on a shared path with the route to Larch Valley. Once past the split, the early part of the Eiffel trail is wooded and thins as you proceed out and up. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

Here, other hikers are ahead of us.

A ground squirrel was keeping watch.

I took no pictures as we proceeded up the valley, but took this photo at our lunch stop/turnaround point. (To descend to Eiffel Lake requires a circuitous route down to the far side.) Our quest for a better view was satisfied.

An inquisitive pika investigated us continually as we sat there.

The beginning of the return was through mostly open terrain. We spotted a lazy marmot sunning off the trail.

As we passed, it turned to present only its rear end to us.

Joan and I continued hiking and re-entered the wooded section. The slope on either side of the path remained steep. Then, steady but unhurried, a mama grizzly and her yearling cub appeared on the path ahead. Coming towards us. Joan and I stepped off the path on the uphill side, and I pulled out my bear spray just in case. Mama came closer, glanced at us, and stepped off the path to the downhill side. She continued her rhythmic pace, but the youngster was curious. He looked at us. He took one step towards us. Joan wondered what mom would do if we had to spray her cub?

 

But mom had trained him well, and he joined her on the other side of the path. The duo passed behind some boulders across from us. The irrepressible youngster popped up again from behind the rocks, wishing he could check us out closer, but mom simply continued her stroll. Once well behind us, she crossed the path and began climbing up the slope, junior in tow. I holstered my bear spray.

Back at the lodge, we reported our adventure. "Oh," the guy at the desk said, "that's bear #142. She's well known around here." (In fact, she was spotted near Moraine Lake itself the next day.) Moraine Lake has so many visitors, we realized, that any bear who prefers this high valley must be accustomed to humans. It's up to us to not panic and do something stupid.

Back to Canada: Eiffel Lake

We chose the hike from Moraine Lake Lodge to Eiffel Lake (and back) for July 25th. It was a much sunnier day than our snow-plagued visit in September 2018.

As you can see in the above map, there was a steep climb via relentless switchbacks until Joan and I reached the junction where the Eiffel Lake and Larch Valley trails separate. On the way a gray jay inspected us,

and after it flew up into a tree, we checked it out with camera and binoculars.

Half an hour later, we came across a golden-mantled ground squirrel.

Now we were on the Eiffel Lake trail. The ramparts and glaciers on the other side of the valley began to emerge from the trees as we ascended.

Ants were busily boring a new home in this tree trunk.

With the late spring, flowers were still in bloom, including this coiled lousewort,

and some western columbine.

The path went ever on and on ...

The thinning of the trees revealed the Valley of the Ten Peaks.

Joan and I began to encounter patches of snow on the trail, deeper when it dipped in and out of ravines. With our boots on, these patches were walkable if we were careful.

Of course, we weren't the only hikers on the trail. In this image, Eiffel Lake is visible below Wenkchemna Pass.

The trail does not dip down to the lake, but loops past it on the way to the pass. Snowbanks became more frequent.

Joan and I decided to snack and then begin our return trip. Because we were facing east, the various peaks and glaciers were visible for a long while.

The upper reach of Moraine Lake put in an appearance, dressed in glacial blue.

The Larch Valley trail rejoined us, and we began our descent on the switchbacks. This spruce grouse (male) surprised us partway down. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

At the lakeside, we rejoined the throngs at Moraine Lake and made our way back to our cabin, well-satisfied with our day.