Back to Canada: Eiffel Lake

We chose the hike from Moraine Lake Lodge to Eiffel Lake (and back) for July 25th. It was a much sunnier day than our snow-plagued visit in September 2018.

As you can see in the above map, there was a steep climb via relentless switchbacks until Joan and I reached the junction where the Eiffel Lake and Larch Valley trails separate. On the way a gray jay inspected us,

and after it flew up into a tree, we checked it out with camera and binoculars.

Half an hour later, we came across a golden-mantled ground squirrel.

Now we were on the Eiffel Lake trail. The ramparts and glaciers on the other side of the valley began to emerge from the trees as we ascended.

Ants were busily boring a new home in this tree trunk.

With the late spring, flowers were still in bloom, including this coiled lousewort,

and some western columbine.

The path went ever on and on ...

The thinning of the trees revealed the Valley of the Ten Peaks.

Joan and I began to encounter patches of snow on the trail, deeper when it dipped in and out of ravines. With our boots on, these patches were walkable if we were careful.

Of course, we weren't the only hikers on the trail. In this image, Eiffel Lake is visible below Wenkchemna Pass.

The trail does not dip down to the lake, but loops past it on the way to the pass. Snowbanks became more frequent.

Joan and I decided to snack and then begin our return trip. Because we were facing east, the various peaks and glaciers were visible for a long while.

The upper reach of Moraine Lake put in an appearance, dressed in glacial blue.

The Larch Valley trail rejoined us, and we began our descent on the switchbacks. This spruce grouse (male) surprised us partway down. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

At the lakeside, we rejoined the throngs at Moraine Lake and made our way back to our cabin, well-satisfied with our day.

Canada (2019) Part Eight: Kananaskis Fire Lookout

On Sept. 16, 2019, Joan and I decided that, due to the iffy weather forecast for today, we'd hike up to the Kananaskis Fire Lookout, a journey not too high nor too strenuous.

We drove down Highway 40, discovering along the way that a number of the day use areas and pullouts/trailheads were already closed and gated. Perhaps this happens automatically after Labor Day. We continued to where the fire road leaves the highway, the place to begin unless you are staying in one of the Kananaskis campgrounds. The road is locked so that only authorized vehicles can use it, but the gate is far enough along that two or three cars can park here without blocking access.

It is as if three different services need access to this road, and each requires its own key: the barrier is sealed by three locks, and the key to any one will suffice to open the way.

Joan and I set off and soon discovered bear scat -- not fresh but not terribly old either. Fortunately the sight lines along the road are long.

Shortly thereafter we encountered spruce grouse. Here's a guy,

and a gal.

Sometimes multiple "grice" at once! Our count for the day would be four males and one female.

Also along this stretch we interlopers were chastised by a red squirrel.

The rolling up-and-down stretches had easy footing because there were no roots to worry about, but then transformed into a steep uphill hike, including switchbacks. Eventually the fire lookout complex came into view.

The lookout is residential and not to be disturbed.

There are benches for visitors.

A registry as well.

A chilling wind blew steadily up here, but Joan and I found a more sheltered stone bench and viewpoint for our lunch break. Here are some sights; first, zooming in on Upper Kananaskis Lake, which we've explored much of.

In the next photo the edge of Upper is at far left, and much of the Lower Kananaskis Lake stretches in front of Mount Indefatigable, which we had visited five years before to reach a viewpoint above the lake.

On our way down we spotted some Canada jays (known as the "gray jay" prior to 2018),

and also juncos, which have a number of variations. Unlike the slate gray juncos we see in the winter in Ohio, this one had the coloration of the Oregon variety.

On our way back after the hike Joan and I stopped at the Kananaskis Valley visitors center. Plenty of exhibits were sprinkled around; I could envision campers spending a rainy day here. One of the staffers told us that a grizzly had spent much of the previous day in the meadow next door, for which the center had a big-window observation room.

Tomorrow, our last hiking day on this visit to Canada, we would try to reach Upper Galatea Lake, our 2019 "goal" destination after having been toughened up by the previous two weeks of hiking.

On the 14th Day of Hiking (Upper Kananaskis Lake)

From Mt. Engadine Lodge Joan and I drove towards Upper Kananaskis Lake, to fill in the gaps in our hiking around the lake. As we progressed the day looked better and better. We arrived at the Day Use Area at 11:00. This was a late start, but then it was a transition (moving from one accommodation to another) day.

In this map the purple and red paths are our two 2017 hikes. The yellow path marks this day's hike, which began too late to link up with the red dots. That far edge makes a long hike ... 16.2 km or 10.1 miles to circumnavigate the lake. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

It was a pleasant day with luscious scenery.

This area had suffered heavily in the 2013 floods.

A new bridge crossed the outflow of Sarrail Creek.

Another view of the waterfall.

Shortly afterwards the trail to Rawson Lake split off.

Joan and I visited Rawson Lake many years ago, and this would be worth doing again, but not today.

We heard the call of a loon or two, and watched a fleet of ducks cross the lake. It's always good to bring your binoculars along.

Joan paused to admire how the roots of this brave tree flowed over the rocks.

There has to be sustenance in there somewhere.

In spots the debris left by the floods was still visible.

Vegetation is just starting to return.

A gorgeous view from near the far end of the lake.

We weren't entirely alone. One young couple toting backpacks passed us, stopped and entered into discussion, shuffling a map, and then returned the way they had come.

Joan and I began a climb that marked about 2½ km left to close our gap with last year's hikes. Realizing we didn't have enough time to cover all the untrodden trail and return to the car, we continued only as far as to find a lunch spot.

As we finished lunch a lady from Saskatchewan, now living in Alberta for a year and a half, came by. She was taking a counter-clockwise loop around the lake for training purposes, but not in a hurry, and we had a good chat. Then two women came by the other way -- this trail was getting busy!

We started back. With the altered perspective, Joan pointed out where the trail to Hidden Lake departed. Tromp, tromp, tromp we went on. We noticed a chipmunk harvesting cones in the treetops.

 Two young women told us of a "prairie chicken" they had passed on the trail, and a while later, we encountered the female spruce grouse they had seen. It was skittish but I still got a decent photo.

Who are you?

We passed a group of older hikers who came down from Rawson Lake just as we reached that junction. Then, to the car, and on our drive out of Kananaskis Lakes we saw a young moose in a mud wallow near the road, so we were not mooseless in 2018.

There was new pavement on Highway 40 as we drove north to Kananaskis Mountain Lodge, and a 14 km construction zone with off-and-on one-way traffic. Joan and I still arrived in good time to check in.

Tomorrow's goal: Galatea Lake.

On the 2nd Day of Hiking (Windy Point)

Our next day's hike was also off the Bow Valley, in the Wind Ridge drainage, and like the previous day's hike a new trail for us. Parking was at the Mt. Lougheed Viewpoint. Joan and I were headed for Windy Point, on the dark ridge at right.

More aggressive hikes also begin here, such as Skogan Pass (17.6 km/10.9 mi round trip, 670 m/2200 ft height gain) and Centennial Ridge/Mt. Allan (11.1 km/6.9 mi one-way, 1441 m/4729 ft height gain).

The lower stretches of the trail were gently rolling, with several re-routes and replacement bridges due to the 2013 floods.

Some temporary signs. Joan enjoyed the artwork.

The equestrian route diverges for a while.

Don't go the old way.

This valley has a reputation for hosting grizzlies, so Joan and I were periodically calling "Yo Bear!" to warn any possible ursus arctos of our presence.

This new bridge had curiously offset boards forming the approach,

because it rests on a large downed tree trunk, 

an ingenious conservation of material.

After this bridge (one of a close-by pair) the uphill work began.

For a long time we were walking through the woods, keeping an eye out for wildlife, flora, and trail damage. After the sharp turn at the bottom center of this image, it was uphill all the way.

Some trail repairs were minimal, but good enough for the purpose.

Picture taken looking back, downhill.

After a couple of switchbacks and a short flat stretch the trail, littered with loose stones, lurched straight up the side of an open area. Joan and I were very glad to have our hiking poles, as the stones preferred to pretend they were ball bearings.

We neared the ridgeline, walking past a path beaten in the grass that departed from the main trail, and continued on. Wonderful views into the valley and the peaks beyond opened up, even with the wildfire haze. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

The trail ascended with the ridgeline, headed towards the high point of Wind Ridge.

That might have been our destination, but we'd read this in Gillean Daffern's Kananaskis Country Trail Guide, Vol. 3, regarding the first of several sandstone rockbands ahead: "This is the crux scramble. Starting is hard if you can't put your left foot where your left ear is. Get someone to give you a shove ..."

We decided that the beaten-grass path must have been the way to Windy Point, and turned around. It wasn't far to the viewpoint. Here we lunched.

The trip back down the main trail began with a hair-raising descent on the steep path to the bottom of the open area. I'm glad it wasn't any longer than it was.

Our return was largely uneventful until we were back in the rolling, creek-threaded country. I saw a spruce grouse emerge into the wide path.

Then another one!

They were fearless, slowly walking up the trail in our direction, bobbing and pecking for edibles. They didn't veer away from us until only a meter away.

Love those eyebrows.

Joan and I were well satisfied with the Windy Point hike, a good workout for our second day in the Rockies. That sandstone rockband on Wind Ridge ... another time? Maybe! Maybe.