Smoke and Snow: Lake McArthur and Trail Meetings

The view from our cabin the next morning (September 11) was exhilarating. Time for breakfast and a hike!

Joan and I decided to head for Lake McArthur via the Big Larches trail.

After walking past a few intersections in the woods we reached the foot of a large talus slope eroded from Mount Schaffer.

Climbing higher we saw Lakes O'Hara and Mary emerge from behind the trees.

Following a muscle-warming climb the trail leveled off and entered woods again. We met Jess, the head chef at Lake O'Hara Lodge, as she was coming down the trail towards us. We told her how much we appreciated and admired the kitchen at O'Hara, and she credited the spirit of teamwork there.

It was the right time of day to capture the setting moon.

At the end of Big Larches we skirted Schaffer Lake, and kept to the left at the next several intersections.

Moseying through the meadow next to the lake, in the sun, looking for birds and mountain goats. Keep those binoculars handy!

Joan and I were passed by a young woman who asked if that lake was Schaffer, and was pleased that she had reached it "already" -- she had walked up from the parking area, 11 km from Lake O'Hara! She did not tarry long for fear of losing her energy level.

This photo was taken near the crest of the climb up to further intersections.

Shortly thereafter the Low-Level Circuit to McArthur split off, and we continued on the McArthur High-Level Circuit. Along the circuit we met Don Gardner, who was shifting and tossing rocks. Who was this? Little did we know. Don, age 71, is a legendary cross-country skier. He first met the master trail builder Lawrence Grassi at age 11. He worked for several years in Greenland as a guide for mining company exploration, and then many years in the Arctic with the Inuit. He was now advising on trail maintenance in return for a ride up from the parking area and a meal. In addition to removing and adjusting rocks, he was noting items, taking videos on his phone for later discussion. He loves to move rocks, which brings out his inner little boy, and showed us some of the techniques he employs to subtly guide hikers to use a preferred foot placement. He recognizes the styles of different trail builders, such as Grassi, and including the absolutely smooth trails put in during the early days, probably by labor gangs from the CPR (Canadian Pacific Railway). This was an encounter we won't soon forget.


Lake McArthur. The combination of sun angle and the camera's stitching of multiple photos for the panorama created a trail of sun ghosts in the upper center of the image!

We found a congenial spot for lunch, and when we were down to the cookies Janette, whom we'd met on arrival day, joined us and we extended the social hour.

 The water had receded this September.

Here's a comparison of water levels from various years.

From the lakeshore Joan and I headed along the Low-Level Circuit for our return.

It starts from Lake McArthur as a shallow valley that gradually grows deeper,

and then plunges before requiring a climb back up to the High-Level Circuit. Along the way we spotted another pika, well camouflaged against the rocks and turf. 

Pikas move in bursts.

On our way back Joan and I stopped to check out the kiosk at the head of the Odaray Highline trail, which crosses to the other side of the valley and up to Odaray Grandview.

The valley is a wildlife corridor, and there are voluntary guidelines limiting the number of parties crossing it, depending on the season, posted at the kiosk. We inspected the log book, and two things stood out:

• people were ignoring the voluntary guidelines; there were too many parties today.
• people had not waited to see if other hikers were coming up, with whom they could combine to form just one party. Joan and I have benefited in the past from folks who waited ten or twenty minutes before pressing on, and we've returned the favor.

It remains to be seen how or if Parks Canada will react to these self-documented breaches. Those who break the rules make it more difficult for those who observe them.

We continued our return via Big Larches -- the alternative trail isn't nearly as interesting -- pleased with our progress in adjusting to the altitude and in toughening up.