Day 9
On July 19th, 2023, Joan and I agreed, "Let's get a good hike in, but also have a bit of a recovery day." To that end, we decided to visit Lake McArthur, taking the Big Larches trail (Route 2) for the first leg, hoping to see some pikas or marmots there.First, we passed by the shores of Mary Lake.The Big Larches trail climbs a stone-and-root staircase along the edge of a rubble field, the accumulation of material that's fallen off Mount Schaffer.On this day, Joan and I didn't spot any pikas or marmots here. We reached Schaffer Lake and, bearing left, continued.
Out of curiosity, we visited the sign-up kiosk for the Odaray Grandview. The pass there is a wildlife corridor, and there are seasonal limits on the number of groups using the Odaray Highline trail. One group had already returned, and we chatted with them. The fourth and final group signed in ~10:30. Joan and I returned to the McArthur Highline trail, and saw a marmot family -- yay! Here's a youngster:And somebody's keeping an eye on him.A little over half an hour later, we arrived at Lake McArthur, and found a spot to sit for lunch.
As we ate, we saw a family of ptarmigans foraging. Here's a better panorama of the scene. Today the air was clear.
Another group was down by the lakeshore. That water is cold, by the way. Glacier melt!
Photographers taking pictures of photographers.In this panorama, we can see a trail at far right.There's an intersection where a hiker can take the Low Level trail to return, rather than retracting their steps on the Highline, or go a short bit further around the lake.In a wet year, we've seen that sign with a couple of inches of water at its feet, and in a dry one, more shore exposed.
During our return, we spotted a pika either working diligently on its harvest, or on its lunch.He paused for a moment.The return from Lake McArthur first afforded us a view from above, rather than beside, Schaffer Lake.At this point in the hike, there were too many critters to keep track of. Basking, playing marmots. Foraging pikas. One pika, not six feet away, issued a loud, high-pitched warning call when a bald eagle flew overhead. A mom golden-eye duck and her sole remaining chick sheltered on a rock in the middle of Schaffer.From here, Joan and I took the trail down to the Elizabeth Parker hut. This route is boring at other times of the year, but today, it was full of flowers, ferns, butterflies, and moths. At the Le Relais camp store, we even bought O'Hara-themed T-shirts. Our hike today was less strenuous than yesterday's trek, but given the views and the wildlife, it was a winner.
Day 8
The forecast for July 18th looked good for tackling Wiwaxy Gap. Joan and I crossed the outlet bridge at the north end of Lake O'Hara,and soon turned onto the Wiwaxy trail,which is short compared to some other trails at O'Hara, but is notoriously steep. Many people climb to the gap from Lake O'Hara, but few choose to descend that way. Joan and I did so once, and once was sufficient. Today, we were above the lake instantaneously. (Click on any image to enlarge.)
The trail is full of switchbacks, with a lateral shift in the middle of the climb. A projecting rock along the lateral yields a view of O'Hara.Joan and I have stood on that rock in the past -- I did in 2013, and Joan in 2011.
As we ascended, the Sleeping Poets Pool, hidden on a shelf across the valley and above the Yukness Ledges, came into view (with binoculars or camera zoom).Finally, we reached the gap -- at 2,523 meters, or 8,307 feet. It's a challenge for those of us who spend most of our time below 1,000 feet!
To the north, Wiwaxy Peak.As we rested and gawked, two hikers set off on the Huber Ledges trail, which will also be our path. The Lake Oesa basin is in the distance.
A few times, meltwater from the heights crossed the path. It were never an obstacle.
Looking back towards the gap and peak, before we've lost much altitude.Joan and I descended steadily, but the lakes (Oesa, Lefroy, Victoria) were still far below us.From this angle, Oesa looks almost heart-shaped!Joan and I ate our lunch sitting on inviting rocks about two-thirds of the way to Oesa, and continued on. A view of the "picnic grounds" beside Oesa.We descended to Oesa and immediately encountered a family of ptarmigans, mostly youngsters, in summer plumage. What a treat! Mama kept an eye out and peeped in an attempt to keep the kids from wandering too far.In this photo, two chicks were wandering in the grass.Then it was time to begin our return. In this photo, I'm looking from the shores of Victoria Lake back the way we'd come.We soon spotted a pika carrying some harvested greenery back to the burrow.On the shores of O'Hara, we were treated to a closeup of this young hermit thrush.It felt good having managed to tackle Wiwaxy Gap again. We certainly enjoyed our dinner, and admired the lakeside view with the late evening light and a mirror-like surface on the water.After all that hiking, we slept very well!
Day 6
Joan and I awoke on July 16th, 2023, and drove up Kicking Horse Pass to the Lake O'Hara parking area. There, the AM lodge bus arrived and disgorged the departing guests. Then it took us and the other arriving guests up the 11km fire road to Lake O'Hara, where we picked up our bagged lunches and set out on hikes while rooms and cabins were being prepped. Joan and I decided on our traditional first hike, up to Lake Oesa. This map shows our outbound route in yellow, with the alternate first chunk of return in green. (Click on any image to enlarge.)
I grabbed this image from the footbridge at the outflow of O'Hara, looking up the lake setting for the cabins and lodge. The blue skies were beautiful after all the smoke we'd encountered since landing in Canada.
I didn't take many pictures at first, despite seeing a pika, a marmot, and a distant view of a mountain goat, but to honor Lawrence Grassi is mandatory.The trail passes the shore of Lake Lefroy, the last lakelet before the final climb to Oesa.A staircase of stones is involved, and the sedimentary rocks reveal the ancient beach-side history of this land; the altitude of Oesa is 2,276 meters or about 7,400 feet.Lake Oesa stretches at the feet of peaks that reach or surpass 11,000', such as Mount Lefroy.It's quite a sight.Here, Joan and I sat on one of the congenial flat-ish rocks and consumed our lunch. Then, rather than return directly, we decided to walk a stretch on the Yukness Ledges trail before cutting back to the Oesa route. There's a spot on the north side of the lake where hikers can clamber down and across to Yukness ...The Yukness Ledges route begins by traversing a rubble field.Stones, slabs, and boulders from different geologic strata abound.At the point where the Yukness trail swings to the west, there's an intersection with the Victoria Cutoff trail, which took us down through boulder fields to Victoria Lake and the Oesa trail.At the end, I turned around and photographed the formation we'd just scrambled down, following trail blazes (two vertical yellow bars on a blue field, which we nicknamed "route 11" signs.)A few minutes down the trail, Yukness Lake, Lake O'Hara, and Odaray Mountain came into view.In the evening, I caught this panoramic view from Lake O'Hara, with the Oesa basin in the center but hidden.
After a hearty dinner at the lodge, it was time to hit the sack.
Day 7
The forecasts we'd seen for July 17th called for a strong chance of showers, but in the mountains, who knows if, where, or when? Joan and I packed for any eventuality and took the West Opabin trail.Clouds darkened to the north, but to the southwest, the direction of the wind, the sky remained sunny with occasional white clouds. On Lake O'Hara, a flotilla of diving ducks swam by.After passing Mary Lake, the trail begins a steep climb up the side of the plateau, with many switchbacks. A fat, fuzzy pika was undisturbed by our presence.Within a stone's throw of where the trail leveled out, Joan and I turned right, onto the trail to All Souls Prospect. It started with a daunting but manageable rock and boulder hop-fest that led us to the stony tabletop that separates Opabin and All Souls. There we took a sit-down and drank in the view. (Alas, no photo.) But the sky had grown more ominous, so we decided to descend back to O'Hara and then take an add-on hike if the weather held.
It didn't. Thunder began to boom. Sprinkles began to fall, and the sky grew darker. We stopped and donned our rain gear: jackets, pants, gloves, pack covers. It took a few minutes. Light rain grew heavier. Therefore, we bee-lined back to our cabin and ate lunch there as waves of rain and soft bits of graupel (raindrops that freeze on falling snowflakes) passed through. The afternoon became a rest period; however, the forecast for tomorrow was promising, and with a good rest under our belts, we figured it might be a good day to tackle Wiwaxy Gap, a notoriously steep climb to 8,300'.
First, we passed by the shores of Mary Lake.
The Big Larches trail climbs a stone-and-root staircase along the edge of a rubble field, the accumulation of material that's fallen off Mount Schaffer.
On this day, Joan and I didn't spot any pikas or marmots here. We reached Schaffer Lake and, bearing left, continued.
Out of curiosity, we visited the sign-up kiosk for the Odaray Grandview. The pass there is a wildlife corridor, and there are seasonal limits on the number of groups using the Odaray Highline trail. One group had already returned, and we chatted with them. The fourth and final group signed in ~10:30. Joan and I returned to the McArthur Highline trail, and saw a marmot family -- yay! Here's a youngster:
And somebody's keeping an eye on him.
A little over half an hour later, we arrived at Lake McArthur, and found a spot to sit for lunch.
As we ate, we saw a family of ptarmigans foraging. Here's a better panorama of the scene. Today the air was clear.
Another group was down by the lakeshore. That water is cold, by the way. Glacier melt!
Photographers taking pictures of photographers.
In this panorama, we can see a trail at far right.
There's an intersection where a hiker can take the Low Level trail to return, rather than retracting their steps on the Highline, or go a short bit further around the lake.
In a wet year, we've seen that sign with a couple of inches of water at its feet, and in a dry one, more shore exposed.
During our return, we spotted a pika either working diligently on its harvest, or on its lunch.
He paused for a moment.
The return from Lake McArthur first afforded us a view from above, rather than beside, Schaffer Lake.
At this point in the hike, there were too many critters to keep track of. Basking, playing marmots. Foraging pikas. One pika, not six feet away, issued a loud, high-pitched warning call when a bald eagle flew overhead. A mom golden-eye duck and her sole remaining chick sheltered on a rock in the middle of Schaffer.
From here, Joan and I took the trail down to the Elizabeth Parker hut. This route is boring at other times of the year, but today, it was full of flowers, ferns, butterflies, and moths. At the Le Relais camp store, we even bought O'Hara-themed T-shirts. Our hike today was less strenuous than yesterday's trek, but given the views and the wildlife, it was a winner.
