CR2012: Sunshine Meadows and Truffle Pigs Café

The next day was a transit day; we moved from one accommodation (Canadian Artisans Bed and Breakfast) to another (Kicking Horse Lodge). All our luggage would be in the car while we took that day's hike, the prime reason why we wanted a vehicle with a real trunk. Our hiking ground was one we had driven past many times on the Trans-Canada Highway, but never visited: Sunshine Meadows. It's a ski resort that takes advantage of its spectacular setting to have a summer job entertaining hikers. You don't drive directly up to it, however; you drive several miles off Highway 1 to the ticketing and parking area, and ride regularly scheduled buses up to the complex, at an average altitude of 7,300'. This would be the thinnest air so far on our trip -- 2,000 feet higher than the day before. Here is a picture looking back towards the housing, ticketing, and ski lift complex from the start of the hiking trails.

At this altitude it was still spring, and we could see it in the flowers.

 We soon encountered a bird species we see only on these Canadian trips, the gray crowned rosy finch.

As the Cornell Lab of Ornithology states,

A songbird of extreme environments, the Gray-crowned Rosy-Finch is found in open ground at the top of mountains from Alaska to California and out on the Aleutian and Pribilof islands. 

We also see this finch foraging on remnant snow amongst the snow algae, and alongside streams and lakes. Early on the Rock Isle trail, where even the visitors taking only a short stroll would benefit, were some signs.

Walking trees, anyone?

Sunshine meadows is a popular way to avoid some of the altitude gain in hiking to Mount Assiniboine, if not some of the distance.

A guardian on the Rock Isle trail ...

The viewpoint for Rock Isle Lake is pretty enough to entice many visitors to go no further.

At the far end of this lake the trail starts descending. At that point we caught sight of an off-trail cascade, which was tricky to photograph through the foliage.

The trail meanders past Grizzly Lake and arrives at the Simpson Viewpoint, where we had lunch (purchased at Sunshine Meadows). Two squirrels played a continual game of chicken with us, darting closer, pausing, then darting closer, hoping to score some calories. A good foot stamp would put them off, but only for a few seconds.

Just after the viewpoint was Larix Lake.

The tall hill in the distance, beyond the head of the lake and to the left of the above photo, is topped by the Standish viewpoint. Here is a closer view of the platform up there (click to enlarge).

We hiked along the far side of Larix Lake, up to the level of Rock Isle Lake, and then continued left to the viewpoint. We were definitely getting more up-and-down hiking than the day before, as well as the higher altitude. Here's the view from the Standish viewpoint, absolutely worth the walk! Rock Isle Lake is easily visible on the left, and Larix Lake in the center.

After this viewpoint we decided to take the Twin Cairns trail back to the bus stop. This was longer (at 4.4 km or 2¾ miles) than a simple return, but it would be new territory. We set off, and it turned out to be a gentle grade and, at the end, downhill. Sporadic showers began soon after we set out, so our rain jackets came out of the daypacks. During this last leg of the walk, we hoped but doubted that we would return in time to catch the 3:30 bus. There was a 4:30 bus, so if we missed the 3:30 because we explored the Twin Cairns trail, so be it. But as our watches ticked down towards 3:30 and the bus stop came into sight, we quickened our pace. We could see the driver pacing beside the bus, clearly waiting to depart. Joan yelled "Run!" and I ran. With the hiking boots, dayback, and walking stick, running was a novel experience, but, as we like to say, I bashed on. Luck was with us that day; I got the driver's attention, just barely, and still had our receipts in my shirt pocket. We made it. Climbing aboard the bus, my right calf cramped, but we were training for more rugged hikes anyway, right?

Back with Mr. Steed, our rental car, we drove through Kicking Horse Pass and down to Field, British Columbia, where we would spend the night. Staying just a few miles from the Lake O'Hara parking area allows us take the morning bus in, rather than the afternoon bus, giving us, in effect, an extra day of hiking. We enjoyed the Truffle Pigs Café, as we had before. One new addition to the dining area was a squadron of flying pigs, each different from the others, hanging from the ceiling.

Tomorrow will be a quick breakfast and then on to Lake O'Hara.