Our fourth day of hiking in the Canadian Rockies began with a quick breakfast at Cathedral Mountain Lodge. As we ate, morning drizzles came and went, leading us to dither over what to pack and what to wear. After a drive back up Kicking Horse Pass to the parking area for Lake O'Hara, we waited with others at the shelter for the morning lodge bus.
Also waiting there was a couple we had met last September at O'Hara, Jeanette and Brian (spellings are approximate!). A parks ranger was greeting visitors and explaining the O'Hara system to walk-ins (11 km on the fire road). She told us that there were fewer walk-ins than the previous year, the year of free parks passes celebrating Canada's 150th year. At the lodge we received trail lunches and our cabin assignment, #1, which would be available after 1:00; Joan and I planned to be on the trail well past that. We headed for Lake Oesa, but a few yards out we encountered a shower and returned the lodge porch to don rain paints and otherwise prepare for precipitation. By the time we'd done that the shower was over! Soon we could look across O'Hara at the cabins; our #1 is the leftmost in this photo.
After several switchbacks we arrived at "lunch rock," as we call it, the top of a bluff overlooking the lake.
On the way we saw evidence of a rough winter, with avalanche tracks of downed or bent timber. Several trees had been turned into mere stubs at lunch rock.
As we hiked on Joan and I heard distant pikas and small birds, but no marmots. A faster, younger couple passed us, who held reservations for Abbot Hut tonight, now cancelled due to the closure of the hut for foundation repairs. Parks Canada does not want it to slide off the side of the mountain. Our path wound through a couple of boulder fields before reaching the bottom of the Grassi Steps,
named for their builder, the coal miner and one-man trail crew, Lawrence Grassi. This plaque is at the top of the stairs:
I think of this waterfall as the "curve." Here the trail,
after climbing steeply, takes a sharp bend and levels out. Immediately after is Victoria Lake, and a cutoff trail in case you want to reach the Yukness Ledges without taking the loop past Lake Oesa.
After a bit more climbing and another small lake, one of the favorite moderate-hike destinations at O'Hara: Lake Oesa.
It wasn't crowded on this chilly and overcast September 9th. Joan and I found a very congenial rock to sit upon for lunch. As we departed another shower began, mixed with ice pellets, so we pulled out our pack covers and decided to take the direct route back, not the Yukness Trail/Victoria Cutoff loop. A while later the shower stopped -- it was that kind of day. At the Yukness Pool we saw a pika! Back at lunch rock, Joan posed for me.
Below, on Lake O'Hara, canoers.
The weather had improved, so we decided to reach our cabin by continuing around O'Hara. The foot of the lunch rock bluff had some kind of monitoring station.
The apex of our loop around O'Hara, the southern end, created a good photo framing.
We had plenty of time to unpack and clean up before dinner. Joan and I were seated at a table for six, including Jeanette and Brian. We were all looking forward to tomorrow.
The next day was introduced by bright sunshine. A short drive up Kicking Horse Pass took us to the Lake O'Hara parking area and bus stop. The fire road up to Lake O'Hara is forbidden to private vehicles, including bicycles; only the Parks Canada buses and the Lake O'Hara Lodge bus are allowed.
Bilingual signs at the bus stop shelter.
The lodge bus arrived and disgorged the departing guests and their luggage, then Joan and I joined the group headed up. We passed a surprising number of hikers walking the 11 km to Lake O'Hara. We checked in at the office, grabbed our trail lunches, and set off for Lake Oesa, always a good introduction to Lake O'Hara hiking. The Oesa trail split off from the the lakeside trail, at 7,000' altitude, and after several switchbacks that tested our legs began a more gradual climb that includes several boulder fields.
The trail passed by Yukness Lake, the first of several small lakesthat precede Lake Oesa.
When the trail approached the gap between the Yukness and Huber ledges there were rock faces to tackle, but with steps,
Soon we encountered a waterfall, the outflow from Victoria Lake (and ultimately of Lake Oesa).
Around the corner we stopped to observe a young raven bathing in a small pool. It ultimately flew off to a bluff on the other side of the stream, where it made an embarrassingly awkward landing.
There were plenty of flowers to observe; late July is late spring up here, "up" encompassing both latitude (51.35° N) and altitude (Lake Oesa is at 7438'). Joan and I saw beard's tongue, alpine mountainsorrel, fleabane, butterwort, and purple asters along this trail. We decided to make a small loop from this point, rather than go directly to Lake Oesa. There is a cutoff trail that crosses in front of Victoria Lake and climbs up to join the Yukness Ledges trail. This map shows the loop we made.
First we gazed awhile at Victoria Lake.
Across the stream we went on stepping stones, then along a rock slab.
On the far side we had to climb among the boulders cast down by Yukness.
We could look out towards the Yukness Ledges,
and back down to Victoria Lake.
We reached the Yukness Ledges trail, and
turned towards Lake Oesa. We clambered up rock faces and through gaps between boulders, following the alpine blazes (two yellow stripes on a blue field). In this photo we're about to crest,
followed by our first glimpse of Lake Oesa.
Joan and I continued south towards Oesa. One more satellite lake, Lake Lefroy, appeared on our left. Lake Oesa is just behind that last bluff.
There were a few trailside chats along the way.
We reached Lake Oesa. Its wide expanse and rock slabs make it a favorite lunch stop. The small figures, center, provide a sense of scale. (Click on the image to enlarge.)
Joan and I were observed by gray-crowned rosy finches as we ate.
Clouds began to return, but our hike back to cabin #9 was pleasant and uneventful. Flowers hung from a basket on the porch.
Our pig companions for this trip, Margie and Rita, immediately headed for a front window.
Time to clean up and head for dinner! Tomorrow, Lake McArthur.
After a month away from the blog, it's past time for me to finish describing our 2010 Canadian Rockies trip ...
We stopped in Canmore to stock up at Le Chocolatier, whose goods we had sampled a week before, and paused at the Quarry Lake parking area to eat. We had our bagged lunches from Lake O'Hara, which because we had not packed them ourselves did not have our usual quota of three cookies (the kitchen prepares them for those leaving on the morning bus). We supplemented with one of our newly purchased chocolate bars. The park includes a huge expanse for off-leash dog walking and ball-tossing; we were interested to see several owners using plastic devices, similar in principle to a jai alai racket or an atlatl, sold as "ball launchers," that let pet owners give a ball a long toss with ease.
After lunch we drove a short way to the parking area for the Grassi Lakes hike. We had never taken this walk, although we had driven by the parking many times, because it was too short to anchor a day's outing, and, because it was so close to Canmore, we assumed it was quite tame. What it is, is beautiful.
The lakes are named after Lawrence Grassi, an Italian immigrant who, despite a full time job as a coal miner, created many of the trails in the region. At Lake O'Hara there is a plaque dedicated to him next to the "Grassi Steps" on the Lake Oesa trail. A sign has also been erected on this trail.
A wonderful book about Lawrence Grassi and George (Tommy) Link, another much different trailblazer in the region, is "Tommy and Lawrence."
On the way up you can admire the falls that drain water from the lakes.
Here is a view from just above the lakes, with Canmore in the distance.
The clarity of the water in these lakes is astonishing, generating a novel color with each additional inch of depth. The entirety of this rock ledge is underwater.
I tried to make a panorama of one of the lakes, but made a poor job of orienting the photos. So, here are two partial views!
After visiting these small but stunning lakes it was time to drive on to Mount Engadine Lodge for the next two nights. The road becomes unpaved almost immediately after the Grassi Lakes, but in past years this had not been an issue. Perhaps because of the wet summer, this September the road, especially the heavily-trafficked first ten miles, was in distressing condition. Potholes abounded, and the uphill stretch to the Spray Lakes had areas where rocks were strewn as if from a giant pepper shaker, a few as large as soccer balls. I was driving the Mustang convertible, a vehicle with low ground clearance and low-profile tires. We crept along the road, weaving to avoid rocks, potholes, and washboard patches. As much time was spent in the oncoming traffic lane as in my own. After cresting the climb and working our way along the road the conditions improved and we gradually sped up, reaching the lodge without damage.
This is the view from the deck outside the dining area as we gathered for dinner.
The lodge is famous for moose viewing. As you can see in the above picture, it is perched just above an extensive meadow with a meandering creek; in addition there is a mud wallow just below the lodge. Over the years we have spotted moose, elk, deer, and beaver in that meadow, and cougars have been seen, but the most reliable sightings are of the moose, usually several every evening. First, a male moose came to the wallow, his antlers still growing and pink-tinged with blood vessels.
A little later a female with a yearling showed up, and then another female. The two ladies did not get along -- look at their laid-back ears.
The last rays of the sun are coloring the mountaintops.
This was the view the next morning from our second-floor room. Clear skies meant a frosty morning.
Zooming in on the tip of the peak ...
It was coffee time, not yet breakfast time, when the call came out for "all hands on deck."
It was a mother moose and her calf moseying past the lodge. This photo has picked up the tint of the window.
I tried to get a good picture of the calf, and got an adequate one. I tried to remove the blue tinge from the image, but may have a bit of excess yellow now.
Joan and I had first intended to hike to Burstall Pass, to which we had been only once in the last six years, and from which we hoped to spot White Man Mountain and other landmarks of Talus Lodge. One feature of that route, about 2¼ miles in, is crossing a wide meadow with a braided glacier-fed stream cutting through. Given the precipitation of the last couple of days, we felt that it might not be possible to jump across: wading would be required. Not for us at these temperatures, so we settled on a re-visit to Chester Lake and the Three Lakes Valley.
As we drove down the lodge's driveway, we spotted Mr. Moose taking his ease in the frosted grasses of the meadow. I got out of the car to find a photo viewpoint between the trees.
As I walked a little further up the driveway I suddenly saw this young fellow twenty feet away or less. I stopped. He seemed unconcerned. See the frost on his back, and how he's munching. Time for breakfast!
Only in preparing this photo did I notice the braid dangling from the right (left as you look at it) antler. Click on the image to see it more closely. Doesn't that look like a heart fastened onto the strands, about 2/3 of the way down? This is a moose with bling! He's sure to impress the girls.
A short drive took us to the Chester Lake parking area. A sign about Kananaskis Country had been placed at this popular trailhead.
The bright sunshine was inspiring after the stretch of wet weather. From the parking area we could look up the valley, on the other side of the road, that leads to Burstall Pass. We were the second car of the day.
The hike to Chester Lake starts with an old logging road that climbs steadily, switching back and forth. Except for birds and flowers -- not too many of them this September morning -- it's an unremarkable section. It's also popular in winter with cross-country skiers. Then the logging road ends abruptly at a cluster of bicycle stands, and the hike continues on a trail.
As the trail approaches Chester Lake it levels out, with only a few small rises to cross. There are meadows with frost heaves, ground squirrel burrows, bear diggings, and long views of the mountains surrounding the lake.
Turn your gaze slightly to the left, and the tops that line the Three Lakes Valley are there.
Chester Lake is scenic, surrounded by mountains. Fishermen, families, and picnickers favor it. In one of the meadows just before, we met and passed two young men (and their dog, equipped with doggie saddlebags) who were planning to climb to the high pass at the head of the valley. We were aiming at the Three Lakes Valley, however, and barely paused. A side trail leaves the north shore and climbs a diminutive ridge that separates the two valleys. Before the trail turns up the Three Lakes Valley, it passes the Elephant Rocks, a collection of large and larger boulders that make a great rest stop. Note to self: get a picture next time!
As we climbed higher the snow on the ground thickened. This was not all bad, because some snow made it easier to walk through muddy spots. There were footprints in the snow, so a) we were not breaking new ground yet, and b) someone else would discover any bears. With a little more altitude, the view back to Burstall Pass began to open up.
When we reached the first lake, there was the sheen of ice atop it.
Looking up valley, there's a melted spot in the lake where it gets the most sun.
At this point we met the pioneers that had gone before us in the snow, a group of four. They were satisfied with having reached the first lake, and decided to turn around. Joan and I continued on and passed a pair of cheerful larches that were not fully golden yet.
One reason why many turn around after reaching the first lake is the change in character of the trail. Beyond the lake, it's not really a trail, but more of a series of cairns that guide you in a general direction. It starts with a steep climb up a gully to the top of a stony shelf, which is also intimidating. Joan and I had done it before, but now it was covered in snow. In some places the snow would be barely an inch deep, and in others a foot deep, a sculpture of the wind.
We made it up the gully and paused to look back. The first lake is at lower left.
Beyond the first lake, it's difficult to determine where the other "lakes," or glacial tarns, really are. Some dry up. In a wet season, there may be several small pools in the uneven terrain. If your goal is to bag all three lakes, you must use your imagination. We were satisfied to hike further up the valley for a while, and then sit in the lee of a rise and eat lunch. While eating I began to admire the snow blowing off the top of Mt. Galatea.
Here, Joan offers some scale in a picture pointed up the valley not far from our lunch spot. The walking was a mix of bare rock, thin snow, and snow banks, all depending on the wind patterns.
By now, although the sky is getting milkier, the sun has melted a lot of snow, exposing the ground-hugging alpine vegetation.
The melting of the snow also meant that my trip back down the gully to the first lake was much muddier: less frozen water, more wet soil. Joan negotiated it without mishap, but I slipped twice, with only my dignity damaged and some mud on my pants.
That evening at Mount Engadine Lodge was one of their special Music in the Meadow events. The artist was Suzie Vinnick, a rollicking and award-winning blues/folk/rock performer. I should have tried harder to get a good photograph, but can offer only a blurry one. Sorry, Suzie! Readers, please check out her first-class web site.
The next morning I had the idea to capture some images of the dining area before the breakfast began.
Hmm ... now what is he looking at?
Mr. Moose is giving us a send-off appearance.
This day there would be no hiking. Soon it was raining again, switching between drizzle and shower. We drove to Calgary, had an early Indian dinner with friends, Barry and Galina, and faced the challenge of repacking our luggage, shifting from hiking mode to airline mode. With the entire evening to work on it, there was no problem.
More interesting was the dilemma posed when we first arrived, getting to the airport three hours before our departure (8:30am) to be sure of clearing US immigration in time to make the flight. First, we wanted to call Budget Rent-a-Car to see how early we could drop off our shiny red Mustang. The written documentation was full of warnings and admonitions about dropping off the car before Budget was open: any and all risk/damage to the vehicle would be solely and completely our responsibility. All the 800 (toll-free) numbers on the contract and sleeve were useless, connecting us to national numbers that weren't picking up on a Sunday night. Finally Joan called the 800 number on the car keys, and got a local (Calgary) representative, who said that they would not open until 6:00am, but it would be fine to drop off the car. Just drop the keys in the box at the Budget booth next to the aisles of cars.
Arriving at Budget at 5:30, we parked the car, filled out the return form, and put our gear on a luggage cart. The booth had a key box, yes, but a sign prominently posted stated that you should return not only your keys, but a copy of your contract. We only had one copy, and Joan was not about to surrender the only documentation she had of our agreed terms and rates. So we dropped off only the keys. And all was fine; when we received a final statement from Budget, we even had a small credit for dropping the car off earlier than the contract stated.
This seems to be a rule of living in modern times: companies will post bushels of rules, and try their best to scare you, but often the local operation isn't as concerned about the bureaucratic details. Of course, this is never guaranteed.
We made it through US customs and immigration with only ordinary delays, but the line was clearly backing up behind us. It was good to get there early. With the US formalities being handled in Calgary, the flight is considered domestic, which makes connections in the States much easier.
We already have started putting together next year's trip.
