Back to Canada: On to Lake O'Hara

After breakfast on July 15th Joan and I drove up Kicking Horse Pass to the parking area for Lake O'Hara, the tent-pole that anchored our Canadian schedule. We took the lodge bus up the 11km fire road, picked up our bagged lunches at the lodge, and set out. Our traditional first hike of an O'Hara visit is to Lake Oesa, hidden among these mountains.

The spring thaw was late this year, and we had been advised to avoid the higher alpine trails because of snow. Oesa would be safe, but we might find a bit of snow or ice up there.

 

The first leg was to go around the north shore of O'Hara, passing by the Wiwaxy Gap trail for the Oesa trail.

Blooms were everywhere along the lakeshore.

Alpine/Bog Laurel

As we began our climb to Oesa, I was struck by this view towards Mount Schaffer.

The taller pine towards the right displayed scarlet/violet cones.

More blooms among the rocks, if you look.

Eight-petal mountain avens.

Gazing back to O'Hara ... still far to go to reach Oesa. The lodge and cabins sit at or near the shoreline; click on the image to enlarge.

Avalanche debris forms pale green rings in the lake.

A pond at the foot of Mount Yukness appeared after the route passed through more boulders, slabs, and rubble.

The cascade of water headed towards O'Hara falls down a steep face, which we must climb.

The trail owes a debt of gratitude to Lawrence Grassi, who laid the trail and built steps where needed.

Looking back after some climbing. The pond is now well below us.

In the other direction, more steps to the top of the cascade.

On past Lake Victoria and a few more staircases lay Lake Oesa. Yes, spring hadn't fully arrived here.

Joan and I found a congenial, sun-drenched rock and ate our lunches, admiring the view. Then we wandered over to the western side, where the trail towards Mount Yukness, an alpine route, dropped down from the lake.

Heading back as we came, I took a photo down to Lake Victoria, the final lakelet as hikers approach Oesa.

A connector to the Yukness alpine route is there.

Snowmelt rushed down from the peaks surrounding O'Hara, which vary in altitude from about 8,800' to 11,000'.

Joan and I continued our descent, and lower down a hermit thrush boldly sang. When I took out my camera it stared at me before flying off.

We approached the level of Lake O'Hara and I snapped this view of the Seven Veils waterfall(s).

Joan and I decided, on reaching the lake, to continue in a clockwise direction and thus circumambulate it. Along our way a rock supported a mini-garden: hiking in the mountains includes observing the small as well as the large.

We reached our cabin. The first order of business was to install our travel companions, the pigs Pudgy and Floppy Harry, in the window so they could check out the view and all the hikers passing by.

It was a smooth and uplifting re-entry to Lake O'Hara after three years away, even if we hadn't seen any pikas or marmots yet. We had five more days to explore this mountain retreat, blessed with no internet or cellphone service to interrupt us.

CR2015: Yukness Ledges and Sleeping Poets Pool

July 28th was overcast but not threatening to rain. Today was the last full day of our stay at Lake O'Hara, so our goal was Sleeping Poet's Pool, which we had been unable to visit the year before.

As we made our way around Lake O'Hara to the Lake Oesa trail, Joan and I were thrilled to get some good binocular views of a pair of varied thrushes, a bird not found in Ohio. Its unique ringing song always tells us we're in the Rockies.

We headed for Lake Oesa to pick up the Yukness Ledges trail. On our way, we look down on Lake O'Hara and a canoe (click to enlarge).

When we arrived at Oesa the weather was cold, but still no precipitation.

What's that? Out on the lake there are researchers in an inflatable rubber boat, no doubt sampling the water.

Another fun bird spotting at Oesa, a hermit thrush. These occur in isolated areas in Ohio, including the hemlock ravines at Clear Creek Metro Park.

But we're bound for the Yukness Ledges. Bye-bye, Oesa.

At first the trail drops down a short way from the level of Oesa.

We slowly gained altitude and distance along the Yukness Ledges Alpine Trail. Behind us both Lake Oesa and the lower, smaller Lake Lefroy were in view.

Using full zoom, my camera caught these hikers on their way up to Oesa. They're almost there.

After the Yukness trail drops and turns west in front of Mount Yukness, the view ahead is like this:

The first half of the ledge trail showed clear signs of maintenance work since last year; false trails and dangerous edges were blocked by a row of stones and the alpine trail markers, a blue square with two yellow vertical rectangles, appeared to be freshly painted.

This zoom photo from the ledge trail shows the Oesa trail winding through a boulder field.

The point where the trail passes the center of Lake O'Hara is an irresistible sight: no matter how many photos I have of it, I'm compelled to always take another. Note that the clouds are still low.

This deep gully is the last spot where the winter snow lingers on the Yukness Ledges trail, but after the hot June this year, there is none.

After turning another corner we're headed south, and the Opabin Plateau is below and ahead. Just when you think that the trail to Sleeping Poet's Pool must not exist any longer, it appears, close to the Opabin end of the Yukness Ledges. Here, Joan is making her way up the steep, unofficial and unmaintained trail. Because I'm looking up to take the picture, it's even steeper than it appears.

An expansive ledge well above the Yukness Ledge trail holds the pool. Note our daypacks just right and below the center of the image, offering scale. There's plenty of water this time; in some years there's hardly any.

The lip of this ledge begins as a series of rocky steps before turning into a sheer drop.

The view changes as you walk along the edge. The little knob far below in this image is Opabin Prospect!

During our restful lunch next to the pool a solo climber came down the scree slope from higher on Mt. Hungabee. Afterwards we carefully descended back to the Yukness Ledge trail, where light showers resumed, and thence down to the Opabin Plateau. After tromping along the Opabin Highline trail, I took this photo looking back towards the upper part of the Cascade Lakes.

A gray-crowned rosy finch was busy foraging amidst the running waters, hopping about so frequently it was difficult to grab an in-focus picture. This is the best of the lot.

We also saw a parent/child pair of dippers, and a marmot on a high rock.

Joan and I descended using the West Opabin trail, and shortly after the All Souls Prospect alpine route had split off, we saw a fisher, a secretive member of the weasel family. This was the first sighting for either one of us. Further along we were treated to yet another view of the mountain goats that have been visiting the slopes of Mt. Schäffer this week.

Near the bottom of the trail we came across a porcupine, capping an extremely critter-filled hike.

That evening we had another wonderful dinner at the lodge, and prepared to depart. But tomorrow we would leave on the afternoon bus, giving us most of the day for one last hike at Lake O'Hara.

CR2015: Rainy Day at Lake O'Hara, and a Show

It rained most of July 25th. It started out with a light shower at breakfast, followed by an interval of sunshine, but Joan and I had barely left the lakeshore on the West Opabin trail when the rains came and we made a major stop to don our rain pants and waterproof gloves.

The Opabin Plateau is our first choice for a rainy-day hike. It's not too far or too high, and there are plenty of trails (east side, west side, highline, prospect, and more) to indulge in. In fact, we have a favorite bunch of trees, near Hungabee Lake, to shelter behind for lunch. Today the rain kept intensifying, and the further up the plateau we went, the colder it got. After two hours in the rain my "waterproof" gloves were soaked. We visited Lake Opabin but did not stop long. By the time we approached our lunch tree, my hands were cold, and I suggested going straight back to the cabin to eat lunch instead. Joan agreed. Enough was, well, enough.

We did some reading during the mid-afternoon. When the weather cleared shortly before dinner, we took a walk.

There was much to see. The low angle of the sun pulled the details out of surrounding mountain faces. Note the watercourses tumbling down Mount Hungabee.

A closeup. Of some mountain. I forget which.

Others were enjoying the improved weather.

In July there is a lot of bird activity -- at this altitude and latitude it's spring, not summer. We enjoyed the frequent hermit thrushes, an uncommon sighting where we live.

I admired the look of these new canoes in the water.

After dinner it was time for a long-standing Saturday tradition at Lake O'Hara, the staff show. It opens with a musical number in which most staff members take part. A note on the colors in these pictures: there were colored lights on the second floor shining on the performers, managed by a "lighting director." Some photos show multi-colored shadows.

The opening and closing songs are the same during a season, but the other performances change each week. This time, two guys were playing emcee.

Fancy glasses, bro.

There's a ton of musical talent on display through several acts.

One musician played multiple instruments, including a hand organ.

One act was, what shall I call it? Blind hands? A sheet hides a second person behind the first. The front person can see, but his/her hands are hidden. The person in back can't see, but provides the hands. The person in front will say something such as, "time to put on my lipstick," and hilarity ensues.

It sounds simple and sophomoric, a single joke, but it's presented in one form or another in every show, and it always works. People can't stop laughing. Even me.

Another act was the Marmot Book Club, with four lady marmots. Guy marmots do not do book clubs.

The show ended with a big song, Lake O'Hara lyrics to the tune of Sweet Caroline. Tomorrow, we knew, the weather must be better.