Bhutan: Trongsa tsechu

Early the next morning we were off to the second day of the Trongsa tsechu. Advance warning: with the festival being such a feast for the senses, I've got a lot of pictures and videos in this post. Take a deep breath and plunge in.

With parking at a premium, the bus let us off a short way from the dzong.

The plastic tarps are temporary shops, bars, and videogame parlors. One of the snack and beverage establishments was run by the wife of Tshering, our driver. For now she lives in Trongsa with the four kids while Tshering, for his job, lives in Thimphu. It's not easy, but they're working hard. Here is Tshering with his two youngest.

People were beginning to gather at the main courtyard, where the performance space was marked off with red carpets. Some of the choice spots were already filling up.

Soon the procession of local notables began.

Here, the Guru Rinpoche figure is seated along the far wall, where he will remain for three or more hours, and an early segment of the dance of the Eight Manifestations of Guru Rinpoche has begun.

Here is a closeup of one of the figures.

Everybody dresses up for the tsechu.

If you're going to keep your spot, you need snacks, especially for the kids. Here is a brief closeup of a dancer and Guru Rinpoche.

A grandmother ponders the passing atsara.

This family group has it all, including pink mittens.

Those horns you've been hearing? Here they are.

The viewers sat or stood in the courtyard and along either side, while some perched on the wall of a higher courtyard. Here's the view down to the show.

As the time grew closer for the offering of blessings, the crowd grew thicker.

Here is a zoom-in of the blessings being offered.

Joan and I decided to take a break from the show, and wandered among the shops. We visited Tshering's place, watched a jeep almost get stuck in the mud near the darts range, and also glanced at some dice games. Here is another perspective on the rows of stalls.

When we returned, the line for offering respect and receiving blessings was as long as before. The dakinis have great stamina; they did their slow steps for hours.

Here is a closeup of a dakini. Although they are female celestial beings, they are played by men.

The apron and cuff ornaments are made from bone. This is a reminder of impermanence.

Lo and behold, shortly after we reentered the courtyard, finding the rest of our group, Tsewang came up to us. The man has connections. He had acquired a blessed string (reddish shade of orange, with a knot in the center) for each of us! He gave us basic instructions for wearing it, including that it should be worn for at least three days. I'm a couple of days away from a month, and mine's still in good shape.

Here, a policeman tries to squeeze past Guru Rinpoche as the saint takes his last circumambulation of the courtyard, and the attending atsara is not amused.

After the blessings, the Guru Rinpoche figure is escorted out of the courtyard.

After a morning full of sight and sound, it's time for us to leave and get lunch. The view leaving the dzong ...

After lunch, Tsewang and Jen pass through the gate at Yangkhil Resort.

Our bus awaits, clean and shining.

Our long afternoon drive was back up to Pele La, and then taking the side road into the Phobjikha valley, a winter home of the black-necked cranes. Along the way was one of the locations used in the filming of the movie Travelers and Magicians.

We arrived at Dewachen Hotel in Phobjikha after a very full day. And you're probably glad to finally reach the end of this post! Congratulations.