Friday, December 11, 2015

CR2015: Climbing West Peyto Peak

August 1st was another gorgeous, sunny day at Mistaya Lodge. Some of us were up early enough to enjoy a cup of coffee and peruse the reference materials before breakfast.
Joan and I had to decide whether to join the group hiking to West Peyto Peak, or one taking a less strenuous hike. The guides Sandra and David were weeding out those who overestimate their capabilities, a common guide practice, by pointing out the 12 kilometer (7½ mile) West Peyto hike had elevation gain of 2900+ feet, to an altitude of 9,600 feet, and that the route would be "all rocks" most of the way. On the other hand, the pace would be moderate, with breaks. Chantal, who, with her husband Wood, were staying at the lodge for a week, had attempted West Peyto with another group a couple of days before. The climb started wet and ended a few hundred meters short of the peak in blinding, horizontal snow. Today was different, as this picture shows. Chantal was going.
Joan and I felt we ought to give it a try, and joined the West Peyto hikers. Our group headed overland, staying out of the creek valley, and headed across a rocky slope,
then along a glacial moraine, until we reached Boulder Meadows.
There are no bushes here to hide behind during a pit stop, but there are boulders.
Plenty of them.
Although we weren't headed in that direction, I took a picture of this rock face with exposed strata like phyllo dough.
David turned our group up towards the pass to the east, still far away.
Shortly thereafter we came across a seasonal pond, now mostly dry.
The route was a steady climb, and soon the meadow/pond receded below us. I believe this was a water-refill stop.
Life grows even on the big blocks.
We climbed steadily higher, with a break for "first lunch" or at least a cookie break.
One of those far peaks still had snow atop it, as well as a glacier.
In this picture, we've finally reached the pass and have started climbing the last 600 feet. The nearer rise is Nicor Ridge, and the mountain in back is Mistaya Mountain, 10,100'. It's further away than it looks! Our goal, West Peyto Peak, is behind me as I took the photo.
West Peyto peak has a rounded top, not a sharp point. Very friendly for hikers.
Our instructions, as David assisted the last hikers, were to proceed to the cairn, which Chantal decided was a good viewpoint.
We sat on the east side of the peak and slightly below the top to shelter from a vigorous and chilling wind. The panorama was stunning.
That's Cauldron Lake in the center. Over the shoulder beyond Cauldron gleams the tip of well-known Peyto Lake. A closer view, click to enlarge:
Joan and I posed for a we-were-here photo.
After second lunch David took us to a western extension of the peak before descending. This positioned us for a dramatic panorama to the west.
Down in that green patch left of center, clearly visible with binoculars or camera zoom, Mistaya Lodge glinted in the sun.
It was time to return. After working through rocks for hours, the flat "seasonal pond" never looked better.
On the way back, I repeated the picture of the folded rock strata, this time with the sun clearly highlighting the folds.
The lodge was a welcome sight for the footsore.
Joan and I were tired but exhilarated. West Peyto Peak had been well worth the effort.

Saturday, December 5, 2015

CR2015: On to Mistaya Lodge

It was the last day of July, and Joan and I were on our way to Mistaya Lodge, our first visit to this family-run hiking and skiing resort. We arrived early in the morning at the Alpine Helicopters facility in Golden, checked in, and our baggage and our selves were weighed. Renee and Edith, who we had seen several times at Lake O'Hara, arrived on an incoming helicopter ferrying passengers back from Purcell Mountain Lodge. After a brief reunion with the Swiss couple, Joan and I queued up at our helicopter.

As you can see, it was a sunny day, and the sun-lit side of the chopper quickly became hot. But the views were great.

Here is a video, in three parts, of the helicopter activity that day: from inside the aircraft as we take off, from outside watching it land, and watching it take off.

At the lodge we had another reunion, with Wood and Chantal, who we had met a few years ago at Talus Lodge. Then our first activity was taking our luggage to our room.
The view from the window looked south to "the lake."
Then it was time to fix our packed lunches and head out on a guided hike to Boomerang Glacier. In this screenshot from Google Maps, Mistaya Lodge is the red roof circled in yellow (click to enlarge), and the glacier is at the lower left; we're heading towards the face noted in red. Its curved shape gave it the name "Boomerang."
First we walked down to the braided creek below the lodge, where a mini-hydro electric generator is located.
Then it was up the first moraine, skirting the right edge of the small lake circled in blue.
We continued to climb closer to the faces of the peaks. This one displays a huge slab of fossilized stromatolites, mounds created from mineral grains glued together by cyanobacteria in shallow water. The tectonic forces that created these mountains have forced the ancient seabed (as much as 3.5 billion years old) almost vertical.
From this same location, a rest stop, I took a panoramic photo to the east.
Just a few minutes after starting up again, we encountered a mama ptarmigan,
accompanied by three chicks.
Up and up we went, generally bearing north (this photo looks south).
Then we reached the front of the glacier,
 and dropped our packs.
The photography geeks marched up to the glacier's foot to take pictures, despite warnings from our guide, Sandra, that ice melting in the July sun might let loose a rock at any time. I used a zoom to take this photo; I suppose if the shutterbugs weren't there for too long, the risk was low.
Here several of us gather around Sandra for a talk, perhaps about the geology of the area.
Far below us, part of the trail home passes through a grassy area.
A narrow ridge gave Sandra an opportunity to offer a photo-op to any of the participants. We took her up on it.
We were well and truly tired by the time we returned the lodge, and an excellent supper was appreciated by all. This final photo takes in the view of the lake by the lodge in the early evening light.
Tomorrow Joan and I must decide whether to take the all-day guided hike to West Mistaya Peak, at 9500 feet, or an easier alternative.

Sunday, November 29, 2015

CR2015: Dash to Mount Revelstoke

Our trips are well-planned and well-researched by Joan, but even so, sometimes a spontaneous day pops up. Today, July 30th, our minimum requirement is to drive to Golden, and tomorrow catch the helicopter to Mistaya Lodge. It's not far, about 36 miles, so we intend to continue on to Rogers Pass, another 51 miles, and check out the visitor's center there.
Until recently there was a lodge, Glacier Park Lodge, here adjacent to the visitors center. It closed in 2012 and is now the subject of a complex legal battle. Outside of camping there's no place to stay in this park.

Our original plan was to continue on the Trans-Canada after seeing the visitor's center, and take several short hikes in Glacier National Park (Canada). The viciously steep Selkirk mountains force trails to be either modest, in the valley, or longer and strenuous. According to our trails map, the walks range from the Hemlock Grove trail, 350 meters long and virtually flat, to Abbot Ridge, 13.6 kilometers long and 1029 meters of elevation gain.

However, it was a gorgeous sunny day, in contrast to our previous five days at Lake O'Hara. The Parks guy staffing the information booth at Rogers Pass was enthusiastic about the flowers at Mount Revelstoke -- no, they weren't past their prime yet, and sure, we could drive there and back to Golden. And Mount Revelstoke has a history with Joan's family. In its location next to the Columbia River, the mountain catches the moisture from the west and is often shrouded in clouds. Joan's mother opined that it would be wonderful to visit on a clear day, but she never was able to. Joan and two college friends visited it back in 1973, but it was cloudy and blustery at the top, suitable only for a quick lunch and departure.

Today was sunny, and the town of Revelstoke was only another 41 miles away. Driving up the 26 km (16 miles) with twenty switchbacks to the top would add some time,
but it would be worth it. It was a chance to be seized.

Just beyond Golden the Trans-Canada highway collapses back to one lane in each direction, with occasional passing lanes on uphill stretches. The traffic is heavy with trucks and RVs in addition to cars, and there are periodic construction zones, largely to clear away fallen rock. We eventually reached the correct exit and drove the switchbacks to the top.

Mount Revelstoke is immensely popular, and the existing parking areas are insufficient on a nice day. We were told to park on the side of the road, and did so. There is a shuttle service every 20 minutes from the parking area to the Upper Summit picnic area and trailheads, but Joan and I figured we could walk the 1 km trail faster than waiting for and then riding the bus.

The first trail we took upon reaching the top was the ½ km trail to the old Fire Tower.
The usual (and enjoyed) informative plaque.
We had lunch on the boardwalk around the tower. Here's one of the viewpoints.
This park is an island in a sea of resource extraction:
Zooming on the Columbia River Valley, the camera caught a lot of clearcuts.
Many peaks line Mount Revelstoke's horizon.
In real life, the trees sometimes get in the way!
We had time to take a couple of the short local trails,
in particular the Koo Koo Sint trail (click to enlarge).
And those wildflowers? Yep, they were there! This is partridge-foot.
Then it was time to stride back down to the car, and negotiate the 20 switchbacks down to the Trans-Canada. With the extra miles traveled and yet to go, we needed to stop for gas in the town of Revelstoke. The main exit there had two gas stations, and both had long lines for every pump: everybody was out today, including campers and huge RVs. We gave up on this location and drove a few miles to the east, for an earlier exit, and an easy drive into town. The downtown gas station was busy but not  ridiculous, and we were soon back on our way for the 90 miles back to Golden.

It was a great day to visit Mount Revelstoke, even if everybody else in the province of British Columbia seemed to have the same idea. Joan and I were a bit hurried, with the 260 miles of driving to overcome, but we wouldn't have missed it. No siree.