Arctic Traverse: Ísafjörður, Valagil, and Súðavik

On September 18th, 2022, the Endurance approached the northwestern tip of Iceland, known as the Westfjords, and the bay  Ísafjarðardjúp. (Click on the images to enlarge.)

Joan and I awoke to the sunrise.

Humpback whales favor this area, and as the Endurance slipped into the bay, we all scanned for whale spouts.

There they blow!

Often we saw pairs, mom and calf.

The pectoral fins can be close to the surface as the cetaceans cruise and feed.

The patterns on the underside of the tail are unique fingerprints used to identify individual whales.

After our whale-watching time expired, an Icelandic pilot came aboard the Endurance to guide us into the harbor at Ísafjörður.

Centimeter by centimeter, we edged up to the dock.

Lindblad offered four options for today's activity: 1) a bus tour of the terrain and exploring the town of Flateyri, 2) a hike in the Valagil canyon, with a destination waterfall, plus the village of Súðavik, 3) a walking tour of Ísafjörður, or 4) a bicycle tour on a road that climbs 359 meters (1,177 feet) and is closed to vehicles because of avalanches and rock slides. Joan and I had covered some of these Westfjords during our 2019 land-based tour of Iceland, documented in this blog here and also here, so it was easy for us to choose option #2.

 

First, we were bussed to the Valagil Canyon and waterfall. Enough of us signed up for option #2 that we needed two buses.

Waterproof footwear was handy as we negotiated the deep canyon route.

Further on, the waterfall began to appear.

Approaching the lower cascade of this multi-stage waterfall.

Looking up, with others on ahead.

The rushing water made a steady roar. When Joan and I climbed higher, we could look down on those who chose not to tackle the sketchy slope.

A brief clip of the noise this cascade made ...

After our return hike, our bus took the group to the village of Súðavik,

where we visited the Arctic Fox Center. Two foxes were living there, either permanently or for rehab. (Two is the most the center can take.) You can bet they were photogenic.

A closer look at the blue, or darker, morph, which is usually found in coastal areas.

The other fox, a white morph, was beginning to shift from its summer coat to the white winter coat. White foxes are generally found inland.

The museum itself offers exhibits and videos about the Arctic fox, its physiology, history, and past persecution. Lindblad had also arranged for hot drinks and snacks for our group!

Then, it was time to return to the ship. The kitchen offered a special Filipino buffet for dinner, and then the staff and crew staged a fabulous show for us.

What a variety they presented: songs, traditional dances, drag queens. Half the attendees got up and danced when the band gave a rousing rendition of the Eagles' "Hotel California." It made for a late night as we sailed on towards the island of Flatey.

Arctic Traverse: Scoresby Sund

On September 16th, 2022, the Endurance entered the extensive collection of fjords at Scoresby Sund (Scoresby Sound),

Click on the image to enlarge.

and in the early morning,

we sailed deeper into the Sound.

Our path was sometimes strewn with pancake ice, thin sheets that announced, "winter is coming."

The ascending sun began to illuminate the fjord, revealing a prospect of rock and ice.

Icebergs littered the bay.

This morning we spotted two polar bears, both snoozing. They were patiently waiting for the sea ice to form, so that they can hunt seals and fatten up. This photo has a small white blob that's a bear. Click on the image to enlarge.

Then it was time for our first zodiac cruise. This was a typical line waiting to board. We were summoned to the mud room that held our boots and other gear by the deck number of our cabin, as in, "Deck 5 come to the mud room."

A view from our zodiac.

The air was icy cold, but the zodiacs were cozy in that we were shoulder-to-shoulder.

As some icebergs melt, they become top-heavy and fall over, leaving their layers pointing at the sky.

Our rubber craft could cope with the slushy ice.

Flat ice was an avian congregation point.

The Endurance remained in view.

A waterfall sluiced down from the melting glaciers.

Eventually, the sunny morning tour came to an end.

The Endurance sailed towards Gasefjord, another location in the Sound, during lunch. We passed a French vessel, the Polar Front, headed towards where we had just been.

Big ice and big mountains along the way.

At our next stop, lighting was subdued at first.

We passed a berg that was re-balancing itself.

This berg had picked up a coat of coal-black rubble.

As time passed the clouds dissipated, uncloaking the sun.

Excitement on the bridge ...

and out on deck.

Why? More sleeping polar bears!

All in all, a fabulous day at Scoresby Sund. I can't imagine the total number of photos the ship's guests took today.

Arctic Traverse: Alpefjord

On September 13, 2022, the Endurance reached Alpefjord, at 72° 15' North. Low clouds and mist from the night's rough weather were dissipating. This was the view from the bridge (click on the image to enlarge).

The morning was dedicated to extensive zodiac cruising in the fjord. Off we go!

The air was cold, but we'd dressed warmly. Mountains, glaciers, and mist filled the view.

Getting a closer look.

This zodiac zoomed down the length of Alpefjord.

The sun began to peek at us through the mists.

Here's a glance back at the Endurance.

Now, down at the far end of the fjord.

On the way back, we spotted a harbor seal,

and he spotted us.

We drove slowly through some brash ice on the cruise back to the ship.

On board, we saw clear evidence of glacial retreat.

After lunch it was time to go ashore and stretch our legs. A group of musk ox had been sighted in the distance,

so the staff set up a landing spot well away from the herd. (In Greenland, the shore excursions are always scouted out ahead of time, and the guides carry flare guns and rifles as a precaution.)

Then the guests came ashore.

Our musk ox observation post was set up well away to avoid disturbing them. But I bet you can't see the musk oxen in this photo ...

They are tiny black dots at the visible edge of the plain. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

With my camera at maximum zoom ...

And pointing my camera thru the spotting scope ...

Then it was time to take some hikes. The "long walkers" took off first.

Joan and I joined the "medium walkers," and came across evidence of human activity, an old fox trap. When the critter took the bait, the rock-laden boards would slam down on it.

From our high point we could gaze down on the Endurance.

We returned to the ship before the light faded. Shadows crept up the mountains as evening drew near.

Joan and I lucked out; one of the guests at our dinner table was having a birthday today. The celebration included singing staff and a cake presentation followed by individual slices. Yum!

Joan reported good aurora viewing after midnight, especially during session #2 of three. I slept instead 😴.