Haida Gwaii: Two Days!

This map covers the first half of our next two days in Haida Gwaii, beginning in the morning of May 27, 2025, at anchorage #3.

The 27th was a wet day; our first adventure aboard the Island Solitude was an early, misty zodiac ride. My camera's timestamp claims it's 7:25 am, but I'm not sure I trust it. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

An optimistic snorkeler.

A starfish exposed by the low tide.

Photographing spiny urchins.

A critter securely attached.

A view of our anchorage, after re-boarding the Island Solitude.

Then we spent the rest of the day sailing down to anchorage #4, exploring on the way. Here's an overview.

We visited inlets and bays, and passed by islets,

The red circle highlights Skittagetan Lagoon and its tributaries.

under wet and misty conditions that prevented me from taking any photos, even if zodiac rides or landings were still possible. If only I had taken notes, I could be more specific. Next time!

  

 

On May 28, 2025, we sailed to anchorage #5, and it was quite a journey. First, we inspected the Burnaby Narrows, hoping that the passage, although a tight squeeze, would allow the Solitude to avoid going out into the Hecate Strait. Unfortunately, you can see in this map segment that we had to turn around.

Upper left quadrant; Click on any image to enlarge.

So we prepared for the Strait; our course was the wide sweep you see along the top and right edges of the map above. The Hecate separates the Haida Gwaii archipelago from the mainland, and is noted for its strong winds, seasonal fog, powerful tidal currents, frequent southeast gales, and shallow waters. I'm prone to seasickness in anything beyond a mild swell, so I took some medication and went below to our cabin for a 1½ - 2 hour lie down. There was bouncing and banging as the Solitude fought the waves, but I survived without any nausea. Hardier souls stayed above, and ginger was available for all to chew.

 

We arrived hale and hearty at anchorage #5, but I hadn't taken any photos all day! Tomorrow, however, would be the complete opposite.

Haida Gwaii: Watchmen

A primary goal of our journey aboard the Island Solitude was to visit all five Watchmen sites within the Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area, and Haida Heritage Site, usually referred to simply as Gwaii Haanas. I must provide some background history, compiled and condensed from various sources.

 

The Backstory

 

The sites lie within the territory of the Haida people, who have lived there for at least 14,000 years. Oral histories say the Haida lived in Gwaii Haanas when the first trees arrived; pollen samples indicate they arrived 14,500 years ago with the retreat of the Ice Age glaciation.

 

From the 1970s through the early 1980s, attempts to expand logging of the old-growth forest, including towering spruce, sparked the first efforts to protect Gwaii Haanas. In 1980, the Haida Nation launched a land claim with the Canadian government, asserting its title to the territory. Also, environmental activists proposed designating much of the archipelago as a protected wilderness, but neither the federal nor provincial government acted, and logging continued.

 

In the fall of 1985, a major forestry company planned to log a fifth of Haida Gwaii’s 60,000 acres of Crown land; the Haida worried that further logging could endanger the local salmon they had long relied on. In October, a Haida chief led a nonviolent blockade of a logging road. Over the next three months, the Haida community and its allies stood fast, even though seventy-two blockaders were arrested.

 

And the Haida succeeded. In 1987, logging ended when Canada and British Columbia signed the South Moresby Memorandum of Understanding. In 1993, Canada and the Haida Nation signed the Gwaii Haanas Agreement. In a decision released on March 31, 2025, the B.C. Supreme Court dismissed a final $75 million lawsuit brought by a logging company.

 

The Watchmen 

The Haida Gwaii Watchmen program encourages young Haida to work alongside elders to protect and teach visitors about Gwaii Haanas National Park Reserve and Haida Heritage Site. Since the early 1990s, two to four Watchmen have been hired each summer to live at each of five sites, where they remain up to 4 months, acting as stewards of the historic sites and providing historical knowledge and tourist information to visitors. Our Story   A goal was to visit all five Watchmen sites during this voyage -- weather permitting. On the morning of May 25, 2025, we sailed from our anchorage at Moresby Camp to the Watchmen site Ḵ'uuna Llnagaay (Skedans). (Click on any image to enlarge.) All our landings were by zodiac. Here's a photo of the Island Solitude after getting ashore. Our watchmen at Skedans were this woman and her young daughter. White stones/shells mark the paths we're allowed to use. A glimpse of the watchmen cabin. This next photo is what remains of a plank house, a form of construction used by the indigenous peoples of the Pacific Northwest. It is the foundation pit, with rows around the central ground. Our watchman told us it was mandatory to start and finish the digging in one day; otherwise, noise from spirits underground would make the site unusable. Here, an old potlatch pole is held up by one of the trees. Our watchman also introduced us to the traditional Haida moiety system. The Haida nation was divided into two moieties, the Raven and the Eagle. Marriages within the same moiety were prohibited; any children belonged to the mother's moiety, and within each moiety were several clans.   All too soon it was time to depart ... as the saying goes, "time and tide wait for no one." We walked back to the beach and boarded our zodiacs. This visit was a great introduction to Haida culture.   We sailed on, passing many islets. The afternoon began with zodiac cruising, checking out the living organisms in the tidal zones. A starfish under shallow water. Aren't zodiacs great? Later in the afternoon, we went ashore for a walk and for natural history. It's definitely a rainforest. A spruce stump, sporting a cut notch two-thirds of the way up. It was a foothold for the loggers cutting down the tree. A tree with a history ... A bonsai-ish colony atop a fallen tree! The Island Solitude waited patiently. Here's a photo from a large map that the captain and the guide marked up to show our journey. You can see our descent from the upper right (Skedans is off the map to the north) through channels to our anchorage #2, lower left, with a side trip to McEchran Cove -- likely the source of the above photos. Click on any image to enlarge. A very busy first day of the expedition! All the staff -- Captain Jeremy, Mate Theo, NatHab guide Eddy, and Carly the chef -- had proved to be fabulous.

Haida Gwaii: Arrival

Well, it's been a while since I posted -- but now, we're starting on Haida Gwaii.

 

On May 22nd, 2025, Joan and I flew to Vancouver, BC, to begin our Haida Gwaii adventure with Natural Habitat Adventures (NatHab). We spent the night at the airport hotel (Fairmont) due to airline schedules. The Vancouver airport was clean and pleasant, but has the helter-skelter layout of a facility that's long outgrown its origins. In one lobby, there is a sculpture, the Spirit of Haida Gwaii, honoring the indigenous culture of those islands. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

From Vancouver there's one daily flight in the early afternoon to Sandspit, the landing strip on Moresby Island, where our NatHab guide met us. Travel tip: if you can't find your passport, lift the seat cushion you've been sitting on. It could be under there.

 

Now we were at 53° north, give or take a smidge.

That evening we walked from our neat but modest lodgings to an in-home restaurant, the first in Canada to be allowed to forage for wild ingredients, including herbs and other ingredients buried in the backyard to age.

Some of us glimpsed a black bear moseying through the back lot.

The next day, we took the ferry to Graham Island, a (long) stone's throw north of Moresby.

Our first stop was grocery shopping for the expedition. The signs were bilingual, one side in English and the other in Haida; Northern Haida (X̱aayda Kil) is spoken around Masset, and Southern Haida (X̱aad Kil) around Skidegate and the southern islands.

Next, we visited the Haida Heritage Center, at Ḵay 'Llnagaay. Photography is not allowed inside the museum, but outdoor exhibits are fair game.

Very tall totem facing the sea; note the tables and figures near the bottom of this photo.

Canoes, cut out of a single tree, were how the Haida and other indigenous groups in the region traveled, for long distances -- more here.

This mask allowed the dancer to transform from a raven to a human by pulling a cord.

The indoor portions of the museum were fascinating, including geology (Ice Ages!), history, and culture (bentwood baskets). As you might expect, some aspects were tragic, including the European introduction of smallpox (likely deliberately), which reduced the population to as low as 600.

 

After we visited the museum, we drove to the Spirit Lake trailhead (GuuhlGa Siiwaay K'yuu).

The walk offers glimpses of many birds, such as eagles, and significant plants, including devil's club and culturally modified trees.

The trail was rehabilitated in 2021 and 2022, but there's still a warning about one bridge.

From the lake we drove, bumps and all, down old logging roads to reach the embarkation point for our sailing.

Just offshore was the Island Solitude, our remarkably comfy home for the next several days. Zodiacs carried generous provisions aboard, and then ferried us over.

Orientation, unpacking, and dinner followed. Our "expedition" had begun.