Haida Gwaii: G̱andll K’in Gwaay.yaay (Hotspring Island)

Soon after awakening at anchorage #6 on May 30, 2025, we were treated to the sight of a black bear prowling along the shoreline, no doubt looking for something to eat for breakfast. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

Then the Island Solitude sailed to the Watchmen site of G̱andll K’in Gwaay.yaay, also  known as Hotspring Island, not so far away.

It was low tide when the zodiacs deposited us upon the beach.

Yep, this was the right spot.

We hiked past an even rockier beach.

An ocean-flensed root mass.

What a tiny crab!

And cute too!

Some of our troop headed directly for the hot spring, while a posse of others, including Joan and me, explored more of the area first. The tide was still out.

The Watchmen cabin is just above the hot spring.

 

There's a bathhouse also fed by the springs, where visitors are asked to wash before entering the pool.

The Haida Gwaii archipelago experiences intermittent earthquakes; in 2012, a magnitude 7.8 quake centered on Moresby Island caused this spring to dry up, but it resumed flow in 2015, albeit at a lower rate. The spring feeds this pool; several of our group indulged.

Nobody wanted their picture taken.

Then it was time to sail on. We encountered eagles camped on rocks,

possibly resting up from what is called a "tornado" of eagles hunting over water. My next photo hints at this formation; a tornado has many more eagles, and at a much higher altitude.

The best photo of an individual eagle on the wing that I could manage:

Click on any image to enlarge.

We reached a secluded bay for anchorage #7 in time for a shore expedition. This photo looks back at the Island Solitude as we headed out.

Our destination is a small bay beyond the anchorage, reached by a narrow channel invisible in this photo.

A browsing deer in the grassy patch. A boy -- check out those antler nubbins.

Eddy, our NatHab guide, fastened the zodiac securely near the stream feeding the bay. We didn't want that to float away!

Some of the densest and wettest forest we'd seen.

The stump of a tree harvested long ago.

This is a "bear tree." The ursine critters use them to communicate: scent from specialized glands is rubbed onto the bark, conveying info such as a bear’s identity, gender, and reproductive status; the height of claw marks indicates the bear's size. Male bears frequently mark trees during the breeding season. Note the missing moss on the lower trunk from all that rubbing.

We edged closer to the creek bank for a peek upstream, a good location for bear spotting, and waited a while, but nobody showed up.

Later, back aboard the boat, Eddy led us in a review of our voyage so far.

He's also been keeping a species list, prompting us to add any new entries every day.

Tomorrow will also be full, including our fifth and final Watchmen visit.

Haida Gwaii: SG̱ang Gwaay Llnagaay

May 29, 2025, more than made up for the bumpy Hecate Strait the day before. From anchorage #5, we swung around a headland

Click on any image to enlarge.

and arrived at an island renowned for its wildlife, especially seabirds. (I didn't write down the name.)

The Island Solitude kept a respectful distance, but with binoculars or cameras, we could observe a study tower and a plethora of birds.

Yay, puffins!

An hour later, we ventured ashore at SG̱ang Gwaay Llnagaay, also known as Ninstints, our third Watchmen site after having visited Skedans and Tanu. We picked our way up a rock-strewn shore,

met our guide, and walked into the woods,

through rocky mazes,

and along boardwalks. In the lead, you can just make out our guide in the grey shirt.

A stop with an explanation of what we're seeing. (There's a lot of storm damage.)

A rock face and fallen tree.

A massive rootball.

A short distance away is an old Haida settlement site, Koyahs,

including remnants of carved poles,

and plank houses.

Here's a closer view of one pole.

Then it was time to take a break at Koyahs' shore.

Joan found an interesting shell.

We had a hike back for our rendezvous with the Island Solitude.

Another panoramic view of water, stone, and islands along the way.

Then it was time to boogie a long time north, to anchorage #6.

Click on the image and see the red outlines!

Sailing on ...

These folks had a less congenial vessel than we did.

A little more than an hour after the above photos, we slowed and puttered by Joyce Rocks/Bishop Rock to view the resting sea lions.

This one looked quite noble.

Eagles take advantage as well. (It's hard to get a photo of one in flight, but this one posed for me ... from a distance.)

'Twas a very adventurous day!

Haida Gwaii: Two Days!

This map covers the first half of our next two days in Haida Gwaii, beginning in the morning of May 27, 2025, at anchorage #3.

The 27th was a wet day; our first adventure aboard the Island Solitude was an early, misty zodiac ride. My camera's timestamp claims it's 7:25 am, but I'm not sure I trust it. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

An optimistic snorkeler.

A starfish exposed by the low tide.

Photographing spiny urchins.

A critter securely attached.

A view of our anchorage, after re-boarding the Island Solitude.

Then we spent the rest of the day sailing down to anchorage #4, exploring on the way. Here's an overview.

We visited inlets and bays, and passed by islets,

The red circle highlights Skittagetan Lagoon and its tributaries.

under wet and misty conditions that prevented me from taking any photos, even if zodiac rides or landings were still possible. If only I had taken notes, I could be more specific. Next time!

  

 

On May 28, 2025, we sailed to anchorage #5, and it was quite a journey. First, we inspected the Burnaby Narrows, hoping that the passage, although a tight squeeze, would allow the Solitude to avoid going out into the Hecate Strait. Unfortunately, you can see in this map segment that we had to turn around.

Upper left quadrant; Click on any image to enlarge.

So we prepared for the Strait; our course was the wide sweep you see along the top and right edges of the map above. The Hecate separates the Haida Gwaii archipelago from the mainland, and is noted for its strong winds, seasonal fog, powerful tidal currents, frequent southeast gales, and shallow waters. I'm prone to seasickness in anything beyond a mild swell, so I took some medication and went below to our cabin for a 1½ - 2 hour lie down. There was bouncing and banging as the Solitude fought the waves, but I survived without any nausea. Hardier souls stayed above, and ginger was available for all to chew.

 

We arrived hale and hearty at anchorage #5, but I hadn't taken any photos all day! Tomorrow, however, would be the complete opposite.