Arctic Traverse: Nordfjord

On September 8th, 2022, the Endurance sailed into Nordfjord, a branch off the north side of the larger Melfjord. A sizeable submerged rock in the middle of the entrance prevents ships larger than ours from entering. In this first photo, the early (about 8:00 am) light has yet to reach the outcrops and islets near the water's surface.

Today would be a day of gallivanting and recreation. There would be kayaking, hiking, and zodiac tours. Joan and I began by joining the strenuous hike again; as a precaution, I taped two toes together. Here, more hikers disembark. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

The terrain was wet, populated by mosses, grasses, and birches; our group was advised to stay in our mud boots, often used for the wet landing. When we reached the top of the first hill, our leader had second thoughts about a climb to the "open green patch" on the backbone ridge. It would require grabbing at trees as we climbed and descended; going fast enough to meet the return-to-ship deadline would be a challenge. And how enjoyable would that be? We voted to meander among the three hillocks, separated by swales (dips down and back up). Joan and I enjoyed the marvelous views.

Here's an even wider look.

This image looks back toward the mouth of the fjord.

Looking deeper down the fjord, towards a glacier in the Svartisen, or "Black Ice," National Park.

From our viewpoints, we hikers could spy on the aquatic goings-on.

The water was astonishingly clear.

Joan and I also spotted a sea eagle and harbor seals from our perches.

 

During lunch, the Endurance sailed down the fjord for a better look at the shrinking glacier.

Afterwards we were treated to zodiac cruises exploring the fjord.

We kept our eyes open for seals and birds, spotting oystercatchers and a loon, and visited waterfalls,

 and geology,

and enjoyed a welcome visit from the refreshment zodiac.

Eventually it was time to return to the Endurance and leave the fjord.

The clear arctic sky gave us a beautiful sunset as we began our ocean crossing towards Greenland.

The full moon began to rise.

Later that night, an announcement burst out of the intercom: an aurora display, the "northern lights," had begun. Joan bounded out of bed and dressed to go outside, but, being lazy and sleepy, I merely rolled over.