Arctic Traverse: Antarctic Havn

 On September 15, 2022, we explored the natural harbor named "Antarctics Hamn" after the ship Antarctic, which anchored there in August 1899 during the search for survivors of Andrée's Arctic balloon expedition of 1897.

A yellow circle marks the Havn.

Our general location in the Arctic ... click on the image to enlarge.

The straight black line ends in a dot at Havn.

The original plan was to go ashore this morning, but the scouts reported that there was fog moving in,

and the walking conditions were poor.

Instead, we heard two engrossing presentations. Ezra Siegel kept our attention as he described the first crossing of Greenland by Nansen, traversing from east to west. Kathryn Sullivan, especially known for being the first female spacewalker during the astronaut phase of her career, gave us a much better understanding of the phenomenon of the auroras.

When Joan and I returned to our cabin, we discovered that when it had been made up, the two pigs traveling with us (Squealer, left, and Poppy) and the walrus (Wally) given us by Lindblad had moved into a bathrobe condo.

Or had they moved themselves?

After lunch, it was time to explore the fjord by kayak or by zodiac.

The gang spread out.

We opted for a zodiac ride.

There was plenty to see.

And ours was not the only zodiac.

Getting closer to the biggies.

In addition to the icebergs, occasional structures popped up along the shoreline.

The ubiquitous jellyfish were here as well.

The corralled kayaks at the end of the excursions.

The post-dinner view was fabulous: pink sunset and shaded, retreating glacier. It lured us into watching the scene's spectrum shift minute by minute as the sun sank.

Another great day! The pigs and walrus agree.

Arctic Traverse: Blomsterbugten

The morning of September 14, 2002, found us at Blomsterbugten, part of the Kaiser Franz Joseph Fjord, at 73° 19' north, within the North-east Greenland National Park -- the world's largest national park! Many bergs, large and small, drift into the fjord.

The sun was barely above the horizon as we began landing for a hike. It was a cold morning, but we warmed up as we walked.

Joan and I again joined Serguei's moderate/nature walk group.

I caught this closeup in a moment of better light.

We climbed up from the beach, passing an old fox trap and black hunting shack, and headed for a lake and fjord on the far side.

This large rock sports an unusual cap.

What's that on top? Lichen and such, lunching on seabird guano.

Here's a view across the pass we're traversing.

One of the other groups is in this photo ... towards the lower right ... but you must click on it to enlarge!

Almost to the lake.

Another fascinating geological specimen.

Our return from the lakeside began with a musk ox skeleton. It's been there for a while.

A closeup of the skull.

Another group is ahead of us.

Eventually we could see the Endurance.

The Endurance relocated during the midday to the Waltershausen glacier,

which spans 10 kilometers where it empties into the Kaiser Franz Joseph Fjord.

We clambered into zodiacs for an extended tour of the glacier and its offshoots. We wouldn't approach the glacier too closely, for safety's sake. Good idea -- we saw a calving event. Some ice chunks were small, and we could close in,

some were much larger,

some had a lot of history etched in their veins,

and some were full of dust and grit.

Our zodiac dashed from spot to spot, and lingered at each one.

 

Equally memorable was the sound. Most of the glacial chunks held air pockets within, and as they melted, popping and bubbling sounds emerged that we could hear when the zodiac engine was turned off.

Cold as the sea was, jellyfish frequently drifted by.

Soon it was time to return the ship. In the evening, the waning moon rose.

The Endurance set a course for tomorrow's destination, Antarctic Haven. Antarctic, you ask? Is that a misprint? No, it's at 72° north, but named for the ship Antarctic, which anchored there on 20 August 1899 during the Swedish Greenland Expedition in search of survivors of S. A. Andrée's Arctic balloon expedition of 1897.