Arctic Traverse: Bleik Canyon and a Zodiac Tour

We awoke on September 5th, 2022, to the Endurance sailing above the Norwegian Sea's Bleik Canyon, with depths up to 3,000 meters. Each cabin had a video screen that, among other functions, could mark our location.

The upwelling of nutrients here attracts all kinds of oceanic life, and small fishing boats abound.

Our goal, however, was spotting marine mammals. Some watched from the bridge, where masks were mandatory,

while others were out on deck.

Orcas were in abundance, including family groups. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

Some spotted sperm whales, but I managed to miss them.

 After a while the ship sailed on, and before lunch Joan and I attended a mandatory briefing on using Endurance's zodiac fleet. After lunch, we set out on drizzly zodiac cruises.

We passed by islets and summer homes,

Chilly weather above the Arctic Circle.

while the Endurance awaited our return.

In a less-than-usual step, we disembarked from the zodiacs such that we were allowed to tromp through the "zodiac garage," where the craft are stored, to reach the mud room, where we kept our boots and rain gear.

After cleaning up, we gathered in the lounge where the expedition leader, Brett Stephenson, hosted, reviewed, and briefed us before Captain Oliver Kreuss' welcome-aboard cocktail party.

Despite the weather a jolly time was had by all, and we looked forward to tomorrow's promised landings.

Arctic Traverse: Oslo, Tromso

In September of '22, Joan and I embarked on an Arctic Journey with Lindblad Expeditions, starting with our arrival in Oslo, Norway, on the 3rd. We had self-administered a covid test before departure. Still, the first order of business at the Hotel Bristol was for everyone to take another covid test, with the results judged by Lindblad staff. Unfortunately, one couple failed the test and could not continue.

 

The afternoon was open, and Joan and I headed out towards the royal palace, not far away.

A statue in front of the palace was a favorite with birds.

We arrived in time to witness the changing of the guard.

Formalities at one of the guard stations.

The palace is surrounded by gardens, and this sign revealed the layout.

Here's a green plot snug against the palace.

The children's section was chock-a-block with whimsical statues and constructions.

As Joan and I toured one extremity of the gardens, a school marching band stepped up the street on the other side of the palace fence. They took up a position at a house there and played several tunes!

The evening dinner at the hotel was held in a spacious event room, and the sound of well over 100 people conversing echoed off the walls. My throat was sore after the first half hour from my attempts to talk over the crowd's roar.

The next day began with a ride back to the airport and a flight north to Tromsø, at almost 70° north, above the Arctic Circle. The sun was out, and we had spectacular views of fjords, mountains, and glaciers on the way up. After landing we had lunch, and then city tours.

 

The first stop for us all was the Arctic Cathedral on the far side of the fjord, spanned by a stunning bridge.

The "cathedral" (actually a parish church) was built in 1964-65, almost entirely in concrete.

Among other features are the glass front and back, plus glass segments in the walls, inviting lots of light.

From this location, we could see our ship, the Endurance.

After this stop, our group split up for different destinations. Joan and I joined the troop headed for the Polar Museum.

Among the exterior exhibits were whaling guns of different eras.

Inside were galleries of polar exploration exhibits, including how the indigenous peoples managed in such a harsh environment and the European history there. This is a model of the Fram, an expedition ship of the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Joan and I found the museum fascinating and could have stayed longer if not for our group leaving, and jet lag.

By late afternoon it was time to board the Endurance and settle into our cabin, including unpacking. Then it was dinner time. Darkness was falling as our ship began to pull away from Tromso. In this photo taken aboard Endurance the Arctic Cathedral is visible just above the shoreline, with lights on the bridge leading towards it. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

We headed out to sea, and tomorrow.