Canada 2024: On the Odaray Highline

On our way to breakfast on July 13, 2024, Joan and I spotted a vole paddling frantically from a stump in Lake O'Hara to the shore to forage. It did this twice before developing shyness. Small things count among the mountains.

 

We decided to visit the Odaray Highline today, with the option, conditions permitting, of climbing up to the Grandview. We hustled up to the sign-up kiosk,

closed earlier but now open, to sign in -- only four parties were allowed across the gap at this time of year. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

 

As is customary, Joan and I waited a while to see if any other hikers would appear; together we would form one group/disturbance instead of two, however, none did, and we set off. At the far end of the gap, I took this photo pointing southwest towards the Selkirk range.

The trail ahead wound with the mountain slopes to our left, and greenery still a stone's throw to our right (if not in this photo).

A few deeply shaded spots still sheltered snow -- and critter tracks!

Although we spotted few actual critters on the way out (there was one golden-mantled squirrel),

various flowers in various states of emergence and blooming were present, maturity varying according to the altitude, sun exposure, and their genetics. Here was some pink mountain heather.

At the end of a gently rising trail, the way forward on the prospect has been off-limits for a long time due to grizzly bear conflicts.

However, the Grandview trail heads steeply up the mountain, at first with switchbacks. Here's a photo from 2016.

Joan and I began the climb up, but without any intention of reaching the top. After our snow adventures yesterday, and feeling some fatigue after the last several days of hiking, we decided to defer the narrow, sometimes hands-and-feet clambering final stage. Rather, we climbed along until my altimeter watch showed an additional 250' of gain, and found a spot for the first half of our lunch. Along the way we spotted interesting fungi.

Looking back from the start of the climb.

Lake O'Hara is at left.

Other hikers began to arrive, and true early birds came down from the top. No problems with snow, they declared. Still, Joan and I weren't tempted. Next year?

 

A view heading back on the Highline.

As we regained the kiosk, we had a fabulous marmot sighting. This boulder is a favorite of theirs.

Joan and I connected to the McArthur trail and walked a bit before finishing our lunch.

Two young marmots made an appearance!

We also heard pikas, but never spotted them.

A big wind began to blow up the gap, and we decided to return, via the kiosk, down to Schaffer Lake, and then along Big Larches. We needed time to pack anyway, as our luggage would be picked up at 10am the next day, even if we were taking the 4:30pm bus to our car. Packing is never finished, but we had time to attend dinner!

 

Canada 2024: Yukness Ledges Snow Stomping

On July 12, 2024, Joan and I set out to hike the Yukness Ledges alpine route. We headed for the East Opabin trail, the shortest way to reach the west end of the Yukness Ledges route. But our way was blocked by red tape -- snow melt was flooding a creek outlet. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

We turned around and ascended on the West Opabin path instead, encountering both a marmot

and a pika!

So that detour worked very well indeed. We swung past the prospect for a view,

and as we continued on, the theme for the day developed -- meeting people and engaging in conversation. Soon, we encountered a group, some of whom were from Taiwan, and they asked for our help. They had no map; how far was the prospect? An older man (father? grandfather?) is waiting further back for news on which way to go. Joan gave him the best advice.

We crossed to the Highline and were rewarded with an expansive view of the Yukness Ledges.

Joan and I crossed over to the East Opabin trail and thence to the west end of the Yukness Ledges route. The beginning is adventurous, following blazes uphill through a boulder field until a trail is reached. In this panoramic shot, the boulder field is at the left, next to Lake Hungabee, and the trail is on the right.

After a short distance, the Opabin Prospect came into view on our left.

A least weasel carted across behind us; we were in awe of its speed as it dashed over, under, and through these boulder fields.

 

After finding a congenial spot, we sat down for lunch. A group of young women passed by and stopped to chat. They asked, How long have we been married? One of them took this next photo. Then a newlywed couple came up and asked us how long we'd been married. The theme was continued ...

We had not coordinated our outfits ...

The north-facing slope, rarely seeing direct sunlight, was where the snow traps were lurking. At first, they were merely close to the trail. The blue-and-yellow trail blaze is in the middle of the green circle in this photo. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

Another snowy view.

At the midpoint, hikers traveling in the other direction warned us of a dicey stretch, which we soon encountered. Snow was across the trail over a dip where it wiggled through talus and broken boulders. The terrain, we knew, had voids within the tumbled rock where a misstep could cause serious injury, but we could not see them. Joan and I continued cautiously, gripping our poles tightly, and did not come to any harm; however, I did not indulge in photography there.

We continued on and the snow intrusions withdrew. The path turned a corner and we began to draw closer to Lake Oesa.

Before the final hop up to the lake level, more snow was hidden on the approach. It's all about shadows and sunlight.

The near lake shore was snow-free, and the ice on the water had begun to retreat.

Returning to O'Hara on the Oesa trail, we encountered this snowbound sign and trail at the Victoria Lake cutoff. The snow wasn't through with us yet, but this was its last hurrah.

The series of ponds and lakes we'd passed gave way here to a torrent of melting snow.

Looking back the way we'd come.

From a lower altitude, here's a last look at the Yukness Ledges that we'd just navigated.

Joan and I reached our cabin just before 5:00pm. We were seated with Bob and Brenda again at dinner, replete with tales of their time in Malaysia. A fitting wrap-up of today's conversational theme!

Canada 2024: Monica Lake and a Steep Climb

On July 11th, 2024, Joan and I packed our day gear, headed for breakfast in hiking attire and toting our stuff. We hopped on the 9:00 lodge bus and were dropped off at the Linda Lake cutoff, saving ~2.5km of outbound hiking. Our ultimate destination: Monica Lake, which lies at the foot of Cathedral Mountain, at the mouth of the Duchesnay Basin. We hadn't been all the way there since 2011. Here's a map of this day's route; (click on any image to enlarge).

The blue line took us to the cutoff, along which we headed west to Linda Lake (the southbound arrow is our return route). We trod up and down, but mostly up, and along the way crossed Morning Glory Creek.

The intersection where the Morning Glory trail splits off is marked.

The abandoned Cataract Brook trail is no longer on any map.

Continuing, we arrived at the northeastern edge of Linda Lake,

and chose to forge ahead on the route taking us beyond, rather than around, Linda Lake.

Except for a distant vision of a pika, we'd seen little wildlife but lots of flowers, and we indulged in some botanizing. We occasionally yelled "Yo Bear!" to alert any nearby ursine creatures to our presence. Some stretches of the path required close attention, crossing boggy areas or streams.

There are peaks on either side of the basin. Here's Odaray Mountain, altitude 10,292' or 3,137m.

We are not going up there.

Ducklings swimming around Linda Lake with mom.

A young marmot was on the lookout.

For a while, the trail winds gently upward.

We passed by Cathedral Lake,

and took the route towards Cathedral Basin.

The trail soon began to climb the left edge of a scree and talus field. And then it grew steeper. And steeper. Small switchbacks appeared and made the ascent safer, but still not easy, and grasping the occasional tree was mandatory.

I remember my first time on this climb; I wore clothes suited for a chilly morning. In the sun on that climb, I was soon in a sauna of my own sweat!

 

Plenty of flowers along the way.

Including this red paintbrush.

The greenery slowly gave way to stone.

Looking back. We ain't at the top yet.

Eventually, the trail leveled out and swung east towards Cathedral mountain, passing through debris and boulder fields that meant Joan and I had to carefully pick our way forward. Occasionally an ancient red-and-orange trail blaze lingered on a boulder. Still, it was clear that hikers had invented several routes through this obstacle field.

 

Then, we exited the rockfall zone and picked our way through a meadow toward Monica.

The basin and the lake. (The lake is in the lower right; click on the image to enlarge.)

Looking back towards O'Hara.

Zooming in ... Lake O'Hara is circled in green. It's a ways back there.

We found a congenial rock and had lunch in the sunshine. Three people -- the first we'd seen since the bus -- arrived, gazed at the lake, and were startled when they spotted us. After a chat, it was time for the long march back. Here, Joan identifies some plants.

One of the level stretches along the top.

Looking down at Linda (left) and Cathedral (right) Lakes.

Pink mountain heather along the way.

Whew! We made it down to the level of Cathedral Lakes.

At the south shore of Linda Lake. It's a destination in its own right. Joan and I paused here and chatted with a fellow hiker named Doug. Doug did most of the talking.

We traversed the rocky bluff at the south end of Linda Lake, and, saying goodbye to Doug, took the unsigned trail along the east shore to reach the trail we'd come in on, avoiding the horrible descent+ascent on the Beeline.

It was a long day, and Joan and I could have used an additional water bottle on the slog back on the Campground trail. We refilled a water bottle at the campground and then took the creek-side trail back to O'Hara rather than tramp on the road. A few detours were necessary because of high water (spring snow-melt).

 

After a quick cleanup, we were off to dinner, and had a great conversation with a couple at our table, Bob and Barb. We closed the "restaurant!" Then it was time to REST.