Arctic Traverse: Storefjord, Greenland

September 11th, 2022, was our first day in Greenland. It began with a fascinating presentation by "bird nerd" Jamie Coleman, "Life in Isolation," discussing life during his long stints on South Georgia and Bird Island. As the morning fog lifted, our attention turned to the out-of-doors, and we spotted blows and fins of mink, humpback, and fin whales.

Much of the Greenland coast is forbidding,

but after lunch we arrived at Storefjord, north of the town of Ittoqqortoomiit and just south of the North East Greenland National Park. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

Entering the fjord.

The Endurance anchored partway down. The sun's glare transformed the scene photo into shades of gray.

Many of us were out on deck searching for polar bears. (The image has an artifact that's a person walking in front of me while I shot the panorama.)

We spotted one male, snoozing, far away in a side fjord.

Then it was time to go ashore on an easy beach; Joan and I joined the "moderate" hikers, where the guide had a chance to stop, investigate, and offer commentary.

We were pleased to have Serguei again.

Our group crossed several meltwater streams, hand-in-hand for stability, as we traversed the alluvial plain and then gained higher ground. Joan and I learned a lot about how the different plant species create micro-environments for each other.

A flower!

This moss campion still sports a few blooms in September!

Brilliant red foliage.

We also saw well-dried hare, ptarmigan, and goose poop -- but no photos. Serguei explained the depressions full of rocks we encountered: different permafrost layers heave up at different rates, and stones roll or slide down and collect in the middle. Then we came across a dropped-off stores box, an iron cage around a wooden box with air holes: sometime somebody dropped off supplies that needed to be safe until the next season!

 

As the Endurance left the fjord, a female polar bear and her cub were spotted feasting on a seal. Moving north with climate change, harbor seals are less wary of hauling out on shore than the ring seals are. Yum!

Those who didn't wish to brave the evening chill could observe the bears on their cabin screen!

Overnight we would slowly sail to Ittoqqortoormiit, population 345.

Arctic Traverse: Jan Mayen

September 9th saw the Endurance sailing across open Arctic waters in the Norwegian Sea, headed towards the island of Jan Mayen.

There would be no landings today, but several presentations:

• Trolls, Tales, and Norse Folklore
• Light, Composition, Moment (photography)
• Intro to Smart Phone Photography
• Seabirds and Why I Have No Friends

Also, two more COVID cases were confirmed. Guests who come down with COVID are isolated in their cabin, with meals brought to them, until they test negative, but for a minimum of five days. Video screens allow them to attend (virtually) presentations, and Captain Kreuss will pivot the ship so that, no matter whether the point of interest is to port or starboard, the cabin-bound will get a chance to see it.

 

On the morning of the 10th we approached Jan Mayen, a small volcanic island of forbidding appearance.

There is a Norwegian base and meteorological station with a rotating population, and little else.

Most of the coast hosts a hostile mien. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

Even with a closer look.

Birds followed our ship.

Emmett, one of the two scuba divers on staff, was diagnosed with COVID and now in isolation. Diving solo is forbidden, so there would not be any more underwater videos from this journey. The astronaut Kathy Sullivan gave a presentation, Looking at Earth.

 

After lunch the weather relented, and we could go ashore at a shingled beach on the west side.

There was a utility building and flotsam of the sea, including this whale vertebra and rib.

Again we divided into groups: photography buffs, how-far-can-we-go hikers, and naturalist walks. Here is an (unfortunately unflattering picture) of Serguei, whose naturalist walk Joan and I joined.

We headed out on the road that leads to the other side of Jan Mayen. These landforms were created by a mix of lava flow, pyroclastic flow, ash, and varying degrees of erosion.

Danger -- volcano ahead.

Another warning sign: "handrail missing."

Approaching a volcano. Note the tiny human figures on the road ahead; they give some scale. (Must click to enlarge ...)

Serguei was intrigued by the moss on the volcano's flanks, and we decided to explore with him. It was a bit of a climb.

Small vascular plants poked through the moss, an example of ecological succession.

And look at this: mushrooms!

Our visit metamorphosed into a treasure hunt, with Serguei identifying the various plants.

 

Then it was time to return to the ship. We cruised along the island, but cloud cover prevented us from seeing the star of the show, the main volcano -- which is not unusual.

 

Before dinner, there were some birthdays to celebrate.

After dinner, the ship's staff performed for us in an evening of musical entertainment. There were multiple acts; when one group played Hotel California, many folks got up to dance, and we waved the electric candles at our tables. I enjoyed it so much that I only managed one decent photo ...

It was a very full day. Ahead lay our arrival in Greenland.

Arctic Traverse: Nordfjord

On September 8th, 2022, the Endurance sailed into Nordfjord, a branch off the north side of the larger Melfjord. A sizeable submerged rock in the middle of the entrance prevents ships larger than ours from entering. In this first photo, the early (about 8:00 am) light has yet to reach the outcrops and islets near the water's surface.

Today would be a day of gallivanting and recreation. There would be kayaking, hiking, and zodiac tours. Joan and I began by joining the strenuous hike again; as a precaution, I taped two toes together. Here, more hikers disembark. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

The terrain was wet, populated by mosses, grasses, and birches; our group was advised to stay in our mud boots, often used for the wet landing. When we reached the top of the first hill, our leader had second thoughts about a climb to the "open green patch" on the backbone ridge. It would require grabbing at trees as we climbed and descended; going fast enough to meet the return-to-ship deadline would be a challenge. And how enjoyable would that be? We voted to meander among the three hillocks, separated by swales (dips down and back up). Joan and I enjoyed the marvelous views.

Here's an even wider look.

This image looks back toward the mouth of the fjord.

Looking deeper down the fjord, towards a glacier in the Svartisen, or "Black Ice," National Park.

From our viewpoints, we hikers could spy on the aquatic goings-on.

The water was astonishingly clear.

Joan and I also spotted a sea eagle and harbor seals from our perches.

 

During lunch, the Endurance sailed down the fjord for a better look at the shrinking glacier.

Afterwards we were treated to zodiac cruises exploring the fjord.

We kept our eyes open for seals and birds, spotting oystercatchers and a loon, and visited waterfalls,

 and geology,

and enjoyed a welcome visit from the refreshment zodiac.

Eventually it was time to return to the Endurance and leave the fjord.

The clear arctic sky gave us a beautiful sunset as we began our ocean crossing towards Greenland.

The full moon began to rise.

Later that night, an announcement burst out of the intercom: an aurora display, the "northern lights," had begun. Joan bounded out of bed and dressed to go outside, but, being lazy and sleepy, I merely rolled over.