Canadian Rockies 2025: First Days

On July 16, 2025, Joan and I flew to Calgary to start our 2025 hiking adventure. The flights went well, but when we drove our rental vehicle (Enterprise) out of the parking garage, it was clear that the air conditioning was struggling in bright sunshine. We decided if this was the worst thing about the car -- last year the trunk failed to shut after two days, and we lost a day getting a replacement -- we could live with it. In its favor, Enterprise has a much quicker check-in and lower prices than the big-name rentals.

 

After stopping at the Kananaskis Visitor Center to purchase bear spray and a parking permit, we drove down to Barrier Lake and the Barrier Lake trailhead. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

This is a short hike with some switchbacks and altitude gain, revealing views up and down the valley. I didn't take any photos today, and we drove on to Canmore and our hotel.

 

Overnight there were thundershowers, and the morning of the 17th revealed lingering, intermittent light rain and mist. Joan and I decided it would be a good day to warm up by hiking the Heart Creek trail in the cool, damp weather. Few cars were parked there for a change! However, after several footbridges led us back and forth across the creek as we ascended, we reached a crossing via stepping stones -- underwater in a vigorous current from the overnight rains. We turned around, disappointed. From the parking area we stretched our legs a bit in the other direction, towards the Heart Creek Bunker, and then returned.

 

The 18th brought fair weather; here's the morning view from our hotel room (one floor up).

The plants are atop a dining area.

We drove down to Barrier Lake again, this time for the Prairie View hike. We had climbed to the lookout in 2011 and 2016, but this was nine years later.

Note the extensive switchbacks at map top.

The hike begins with a stroll across the dam.

At the far end we entered the forested area, at first on a gentle grade, and then on the extensive series of switchbacks. (The "trail" begins as an old unpaved road.) At the one-hour mark, we encountered this Western coralroot in bud,

and a foraging red squirrel.

After slogging uphill another three-quarters of an hour, views began to open up.

That's not me.

Further along the ridge, and higher up, with the dam in the distance -- after another hour.

But look at the way ahead!

We hiked along the ridge to the spot where, we knew, some less-than-ideal stones headed steeply up. We'd done them twice in years before. But when we reached that section, it now looked sketchy, slick, and polished. Handholds were scarce. After taking a few cautious steps, we decided to walk back as far as a great view and have lunch there. Another gentleman hiking with us made the same decision.

A chipmunk also thought it was a wonderful idea, and kept approaching us time after time as we shooed it away with our hiking poles. After lunch, we descended the switchbacks with an eye on the blooms, including this wood lily.

And a Japanese spirea.

Butterflies and blue aster!

Near the end we trod just above the lakeshore, where beachgoers and paddlers were accumulating. A host of birds descended for a meal, taking advantage of some kind of hatching.

 Overall, we had a good first workout. In the next post, we'll tackle the Castle Mountain Lookout.

Haida Gwaii: Windy Bay (Hlk'yah G̱awG̱a) and Wrap-up

 On May 31st, 2025, the Island Solitude sailed from anchorage #7 to Windy Bay, or Hlk'yah G̱awG̱a, the final watchmen site of our Haida Gwaii adventure. With this visit, we'll have visited all five sites. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

The day began with paddling or a zodiac cruise at the anchorage. Some went solo,

some double,

while Joan and I opted for the zodiac cruise.

Afterwards, with everyone back aboard the Solitude, a black bear -- Haida Gwaii subspecies -- decided it was safe to explore the tidal zone.

As we pulled into and along the main channel, the mix of clouds and sun created "god rays."

Eagles are always a treat ...

The watchmen site at Windy Bay sits behind a wide beach.

The watchman favored us with an extensive talk about the history of the island and the watchmen.

Don't cross the pebbled ring.

He is standing in front of the Legacy Pole, raised in 2013 to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the Gwaii Haanas Agreement. Its size makes it difficult to take it all in at once.

A side view.

A zoom into the midsection,

and a peek-a-boo.

This image of the nearby Blinking House is pulled from Wikipedia with some reformatting.

Those desiring an early return to the boat had a long walk to the zodiac (low tide).

Employing a pole to free the zodiac.

Many of us went for another walk in the woods.

More rain forest giants!

Inevitably, the time to sail on arrived.

We passed more clusters of Steller sea lions that had walked out of the water.

They seemed to be everywhere.

We arrived at our final anchorage, the same cove where we first boarded the Island Solitude, and settled in for the night.

 

The next morning, we had time to paddle or zodiac around the harbor before the van arrived to take us to the airport. Joan and I opted for the zodiac ride, and we wandered far.

Note the snow patches atop the peaks.

Here are the remains of a logging camp's pier. The Sitka spruce of the Pacific Northwest was prized for many uses, including aviation.

Cruising by the islets in the bay revealed an abundance of flora.

An automated weather station for a frequently used harbor.

 

The red dot is one of the kayak folk. Click on any image to enlarge!

Then it was time to reverse our arrival and meet the transfer van at the landing.

After a bumpy ride on logging roads and then better roads, we arrived at the airport. It was just starting to open for the daily flight to and from Vancouver, so we had time to grab a bite and shop.

At the Vancouver airport, we revisited the canoe sculpture. What a remarkable people the Haida were and are.

Back home, Joan and I applied Haida pole stickers to our cars.

Haida Gwaii: G̱andll K’in Gwaay.yaay (Hotspring Island)

Soon after awakening at anchorage #6 on May 30, 2025, we were treated to the sight of a black bear (Haida Gwaii subspecies) prowling along the shoreline, no doubt looking for something to eat for breakfast. (Click on any image to enlarge.)

Then the Island Solitude sailed to the Watchmen site of G̱andll K’in Gwaay.yaay, also  known as Hotspring Island, not so far away.

It was low tide when the zodiacs deposited us upon the beach.

Yep, this was the right spot.

We hiked past an even rockier beach.

An ocean-flensed root mass.

What a tiny crab!

And cute too!

Some of our troop headed directly for the hot spring, while a posse of others, including Joan and me, explored more of the area first. The tide was still out.

The Watchmen cabin is just above the hot spring.

 

There's a bathhouse also fed by the springs, where visitors are asked to wash before entering the pool.

The Haida Gwaii archipelago experiences intermittent earthquakes; in 2012, a magnitude 7.8 quake centered on Moresby Island caused this spring to dry up, but it resumed flow in 2015, albeit at a lower rate. The spring feeds this pool; several of our group indulged.

Nobody wanted their picture taken.

Then it was time to sail on. We encountered eagles camped on rocks,

possibly resting up from what is called a "tornado" of eagles hunting over water. My next photo hints at this formation; a tornado has many more eagles, and at a much higher altitude.

The best photo of an individual eagle on the wing that I could manage:

Click on any image to enlarge.

We reached a secluded bay for anchorage #7 in time for a shore expedition. This photo looks back at the Island Solitude as we headed out.

Our destination is a small bay beyond the anchorage, reached by a narrow channel invisible in this photo.

A browsing deer in the grassy patch. A boy -- check out those antler nubbins.

Eddy, our NatHab guide, fastened the zodiac securely near the stream feeding the bay. We didn't want that to float away!

Some of the densest and wettest forest we'd seen.

The stump of a tree harvested long ago.

This is a "bear tree." The ursine critters use them to communicate: scent from specialized glands is rubbed onto the bark, conveying info such as a bear’s identity, gender, and reproductive status; the height of claw marks indicates the bear's size. Male bears frequently mark trees during the breeding season. Note the missing moss on the lower trunk from all that rubbing.

We edged closer to the creek bank for a peek upstream, a good location for bear spotting, and waited a while, but nobody showed up.

Later, back aboard the boat, Eddy led us in a review of our voyage so far.

He's also been keeping a species list, prompting us to add any new entries every day.

Tomorrow will also be full, including our fifth and final Watchmen visit.