On the 11th Day of Hiking (Larch Valley, Eiffel Lake)

The morning of September 16th greeted us with another two or three inches of overnight snow.

Joan and I didn't need to decide at first between a Larch Valley hike or Eiffel Lake, because the initial stretch of trail is the same. And full of switchbacks as we went up and up.

Larch Valley and, beyond it, Sentinel Pass are probably the most popular destinations out of Moraine Lake (there aren't that many), so we had plenty of company on the trail, ranging from serious hikers to casual tourists in athletic shoes or even street shoes. As we went up, compressing what snow wasn't already compacted and slick, we worried about what the surface would be like coming down in the afternoon. We didn't have any gripping gear such as yaktrax, but at least we had our hiking poles.

We regularly stepped aside for faster hikers going up, or others coming back down. It was hot work. Also, the phenomenon of trees dripping water and snow that we encountered yesterday reappeared. Finally we reached the trail split.

Larch Valley was our first priority, and the trail immediately became less steep.

Some fabulous sunshine began to bust through.

Ahead: more larches.

We continued to climb through the larches, and then hit an open area that revealed Sentinel Pass ahead.

A closer look.

Zooming in on those tackling the switchbacks up the pass.

Those at the top.

Maximum zoom here!

Given the footing Joan and I decided not to tackle the pass today. We turned around and watched the lighting change with every passing minute, clouds and mists rapidly shape-shifting.

After the first few yards of our return we found an unoccupied bench, so it was time for first lunch. Then the trail re-entered the larches.

There are 10 peaks over 10,000 ft. around Moraine Lake

Muddy trail, larches, and misty mountains.

Time to stop and clean our glasses of the frequent drips.

Further on we shared our map with a couple who wanted to see where they were. Then we reached the intersection with the Eiffel Lake trail and turned right.

There was only a scattering of boot prints ahead of us. Joan and I hoped to reach an area out of the woods (according to a 2001 map) for the view; the lake itself was too far for today. But it began to drizzle again, and the glimpses between trees of the far side of the valley were regularly fogged over. With no prospect of an open view, and no place to sit, we had our second lunch standing in the middle of the trail.

Our snack was almost over when a trio that we'd encountered already today came along. They had done Sentinel Pass but decided not to go down the far side, seeing no bootprints there at all.


Back at the intersection we tackled the slippery,  switchbacked descent to Moraine Lake. It was not fun. The snow was compressed by hundreds of footprints, slushy from the rising temperatures, muddy, and studded with ball-bearing gravel, all willing to give way at the slightest provocation. But Joan and I made it down safely to Moraine Lake, with a final sight of relief. And on the shore we crossed paths with the trio one more time.

We hung up a lot of gear to dry, and, at dinner in the lodge, we watched snow begin to fall again.