European Odyssey: Cap Fréhel, and a Day at Sea

After seeing Mont Saint Michel in the morning, those of us up for a hike took the bus headed for Cap Fréhel. This was the first time Lindblad had visited Cap Fréhel, and it was billed as a 'strenuous hike,' which it turned out not to be. Perhaps the local tour company was concerned about the uneven footing. 

The tip of this strategic cape is adorned with two lighthouses. The larger, 98 feet high, was built in 1950, while the smaller dates to 1685.

In all directions, the view was spectacular. Here, looking north and west, there is a very choppy and chaotic sea between us and the large rock. The tide wants to go one way while the wind is blowing the other way, leading to conditions nobody would want to drive a zodiac through.

From this same road, which from the parking area forms the beginning of the walk, I took this picture out to the point.

Several of us walked out to the very tip of the cape. Note the lack of guardrails and warning signs ... you are assumed to be smart enough to not fall into the ocean. Or if not, that you are supervised by someone who is.

We soon came across this foundation of a gun mount from World War II.

Looking east, we could see Fort La Latte perched on the next cape, peeking over the cliff's edge in this photo.

The trail wound along the cliff top towards Fort La Latte, which would have made a wonderful destination for an all-day hike with packed lunches. As it was, we got close enough for me to take this photo with my zoom.

Some of the group, including the local guide, elected to hang out around the lighthouse; others of us, including some Lindblad staff, wanted to walk as far as we might. Along the way there was something new to see around every curve of the trail. Here is one of the rock formations that has split from the mainland.

Cormorants were sunning on the slabs just beyond the reach of the waves.

We were not the only ones drinking in today's weather and vistas.

Further on there was a mount still connected to shore being visited by fishermen and picnickers.

 As you can see, the trail was mostly flat. Too soon it was time to return to the bus; the only good aspect of leaving the cape was that dinner was drawing closer.

Back at the dock there was a good view of the northeast corner of the walls of St. Malo from the Explorer's rear deck.

The next day was a day at sea as we sailed west and then southeast to round the western tip of France and enter the Bay of Biscay. Our destination was the small island of Ile d'Aix, just offshore from the port city of La Rochelle. My course line is conceptual only and in no way based on formation about the navigation of the Explorer.

We had hoped for some good views of the French coast, but the French maritime traffic authorities insisted that the Explorer follow the routes for regularly scheduled passenger ships, which we were not. This meant we had to sail out of sight of land. The bridge crew was not happy. The Explorer had sailed the closer route before. But once persuasion fails there was little that could be done without running the risk of being boarded by the French coast guard.

In the beginning there were some large swells, leading me to take a Bonine tablet. As you can see, the plates at the breakfast buffet would accordion up and down with the pitching of the ship. Perhaps the video clip could be longer, but you don't dare stall the line for long!




The Lindblad staff and guest experts have a depth of knowledge that makes a day at sea a fascinating learning experience. Even if, like me, you don't retain much after 24 hours. Here are the presentation offerings for this day:

1. 0900: Jim Kelly on "The North Atlantic Ocean: Weathermaker of Europe."
2. 1100: David Barnes on "Napoleon: The Revolution on Horseback" (relevant to the following day).
3. 1500: Kenneth Brassil on "Romanticizing the Celts."
4. 1600: Justin Hofman photography "Breakout Session."
5. 1700: National Geographic Photographer Katherine Carnow with a presentation on the region of Poitou Charentes.
6. 1845: Video Chronicler Rodrigo Moterani presenting a preview of the film of our trip so far.

Our pigs Mocha Puff and Cream Puff had a play date during one lecture with Freddy and Carry, who were accompanying one of the Lindblad staffers.

As we turned to the southeast the seas, or the ship's position relative to them, improved, so between presentations Joan and I spent time on the bridge watching the shipping traffic. The Explorer passed this vessel, which was on its way to Gibraltar. It's a dredging or oil surveying barge; the big square block at the stern is living quarters.

The next day would be very busy, with stops at Ile d'Aix and La Rochelle. We would be rendezvousing in the morning with Serge and Jeanne during our brief visit at Ile d'Aix, and meeting Bruno Corson, another friend Joan made during her junior year abroad, in the afternoon at La Rochelle. With these reunions we would be forgoing the guided tours at these spots.