Arctic Traverse: Jan Mayen

September 9th saw the Endurance sailing across open Arctic waters in the Norwegian Sea, headed towards the island of Jan Mayen.

There would be no landings today, but several presentations:

• Trolls, Tales, and Norse Folklore
• Light, Composition, Moment (photography)
• Intro to Smart Phone Photography
• Seabirds and Why I Have No Friends

Also, two more COVID cases were confirmed. Guests who come down with COVID are isolated in their cabin, with meals brought to them, until they test negative, but for a minimum of five days. Video screens allow them to attend (virtually) presentations, and Captain Kreuss will pivot the ship so that, no matter whether the point of interest is to port or starboard, the cabin-bound will get a chance to see it.

 

On the morning of the 10th we approached Jan Mayen, a small volcanic island of forbidding appearance.

There is a Norwegian base and meteorological station with a rotating population, and little else.

Most of the coast hosts a hostile mien. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

Even with a closer look.

Birds followed our ship.

Emmett, one of the two scuba divers on staff, was diagnosed with COVID and now in isolation. Diving solo is forbidden, so there would not be any more underwater videos from this journey. The astronaut Kathy Sullivan gave a presentation, Looking at Earth.

 

After lunch the weather relented, and we could go ashore at a shingled beach on the west side.

There was a utility building and flotsam of the sea, including this whale vertebra and rib.

Again we divided into groups: photography buffs, how-far-can-we-go hikers, and naturalist walks. Here is an (unfortunately unflattering picture) of Serguei, whose naturalist walk Joan and I joined.

We headed out on the road that leads to the other side of Jan Mayen. These landforms were created by a mix of lava flow, pyroclastic flow, ash, and varying degrees of erosion.

Danger -- volcano ahead.

Another warning sign: "handrail missing."

Approaching a volcano. Note the tiny human figures on the road ahead; they give some scale. (Must click to enlarge ...)

Serguei was intrigued by the moss on the volcano's flanks, and we decided to explore with him. It was a bit of a climb.

Small vascular plants poked through the moss, an example of ecological succession.

And look at this: mushrooms!

Our visit metamorphosed into a treasure hunt, with Serguei identifying the various plants.

 

Then it was time to return to the ship. We cruised along the island, but cloud cover prevented us from seeing the star of the show, the main volcano -- which is not unusual.

 

Before dinner, there were some birthdays to celebrate.

After dinner, the ship's staff performed for us in an evening of musical entertainment. There were multiple acts; when one group played Hotel California, many folks got up to dance, and we waved the electric candles at our tables. I enjoyed it so much that I only managed one decent photo ...

It was a very full day. Ahead lay our arrival in Greenland.