Arctic Traverse: Tysfjord and Trollfjorden

On the morning of September 6th, 2022, the Endurance was sailing down the lengthy Tysfjord towards the Stabburselva hiking area at the far end. We were just north of the Arctic Circle.

The ship came to a halt, and we disembarked via zodiac for a "wet landing" on the beach, where several groups coalesced, each accompanied by staff: those interested in a long hike, called "long hikers," those more interested in a shorter hike, and those interested in photography. Joan and I changed into our hiking boots and joined the long hikers. We all kept our distance from the summer homes, not wishing to offend the people living here.

After the first climb we looked back at the settlement and our ship. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

The expedition videographer took this shot.

For a while, the walk was a jaunt in the woods.

After a bit more climbing we reached a stepped waterfall that blanketed bare rock faces.

Then we really began to climb up the wet path. The red paint strokes mark the trail, which was sometimes obscure.

Sometimes we paused to regroup and catch our breath. The guide picked viewpoints for this, of course.

Rather than cut into the stone, our path was built atop the outcrops we passed.

Sweden was just a few kilometers ahead.

We stopped at a good place to halt and admire the panoramic view before turning around to keep to the ship's schedule.

Back aboard the Endurance, we were ready for lunch and a presentation by my favorite guest speaker, Kathy Sullivan, a veteran of three space shuttle missions and the first woman to visit the deepest spot in all the oceans, the Challenger Deep.

Our next fjord was Trollfjorden, notable for how steep, how almost vertical the sides of the fjord were.

Captain Kruess picked his spot to turn the Endurance towards the wall of the fjord, and we crept forward. The maneuver was a stiff challenge because, as the photos have revealed, the most forward part of the ship is at the waterline, an inverted or x-bow. In a traditional vessel, a guest at the front of the bow could reach out and grab foliage.

Here, the excitement lay in seeing how close the captain was willing to go.

We heard a soft scrape and felt a mild shudder; only then did our ship back off. Now dinner time was approaching, and the Endurance began to sail towards the Lofoten Islands, tomorrow's destination -- still above the Arctic Circle.