Highlands and Islands: South Harris, Uig, Coul House

Saturday, June 2nd, began with a hazy morning. As Jonathan had informed us earlier, if you can see more than a mile, it's called a mist in Scotland; if less than a mile, it's a fog. After breakfast we drove south through increasing fog, with Jonathan pointing out features of the terrain and seasonal economy, and bypassing the obscured views at Luskentyre Beach. The fog only continued to thicken, however, so we turned back north and found the visibility at Luskentyre greatly improved.

This satellite view shows several beaches on the Atlantic side of South Harris, making it a popular spot in recent years to open campgrounds, vacation cabins, and B&Bs.

Joan found several crab exoskeletons on the beach, shed as the creature grew. The life stage between molts is called an instar.

Jonathan showed us a starfish discovered by Melinda and Bob, which he threw back into the sea.

From Luskentyre Jim drove us back to Tarbert to await the ferry to Uig, on the island of Skye. At Tarbert Joan and I walked the short distance to the Church of Scotland to watch the ferry arrive.

At first the ship was a mere sea-colored blob on the horizon, but our patience was rewarded as it passed by the church.

Our group boarded the ferry. The vehicle deck had a plethora of cars, rather than the mass of trucks on the ferry to Stornoway two days before.

Car alarms blared with every course adjustment.

They must hate being tipped out of horizontal.

The sea fog (haar) obscured our views until we drew closer to Skye. Sitting on the back deck, Joan and the woman next to her engaged in a long conversation. 

This lady and her husband were originally from Harris and had planned to retire there, but now their grandchildren are on the mainland, so they visit Harris frequently instead. They were pleased to find their favorite seats open when boarding the ferry. Joan and I favor the rear deck too.

Our group had lunch on the ship, which had a variety of dishes on offer. Joan and I split a surprisingly good chicken curry.

Approaching the harbor of Uig, on the right.

The ferry cozied up to the dock and was lashed into place.

One block beyond the pier is the Isle of Sky Brewery, where Jonathan treated us to a beer tasting. I'm not a beer drinker, but I gave it a go, and the results were unexpected. The three colors we tried were, to put it in layman's terms, golden, brown, and dark. (I told you I'm not a beer drinker.) I didn't care for the pale stuff, but to my surprise, the other two weren't bad. I'd be willing to try them again.

Then it was time to board another van and journey back to the Coul House, about a two and a half hour drive. On the way we stopped at the Sligachan Hotel for a rest stop and an opportunity for a cup of tea or another beer or whiskey.

Technically Skye is an island, but it is connected to the mainland by bridge, so no more ferries were needed. There was plenty of Saturday traffic, including daredevil motorcyclists with "Zed Head" skull logos on their jackets.

We arrived safely at the Coul House after a busy four-night absence.

Yet one more surprise was in store for us at dinner. Who should come over to greet Joan and me but David Barnes! We'd come to know him during various trips with Lindblad Expeditions, where he wore many hats, including historian/lecturer and expedition/extension leader. He was wrangling a small-group Scotland trip with another company; we took a Caledonian Canal and Orkneys trip with him in 2010,

but my best picture of him dates from 2008 in Wales:

The sign is in Welsh, and David's from Wales.

Tomorrow will be centered on visiting Magnus House and the Aigas Field Center.