East Greenland: On to Base Camp

On August 14th our Natural Habitat Adventures group shoved off for base camp in the same boat we took yesterday for whale watching. Our luggage zipped ahead of us on a speedboat as we puttered through calm seas and straits, spotting humpback whales (likely yesterday's mom and calf) and a fin whale, all very much off in the distance.

Our boat took a slightly longer route to avoid the main Sermilik fjord, which is more exposed to sea swells and often choked with icebergs brought in by the tide.

As you can see from the above map, we were frequently close to shore. In the upper right of the next photo there is a structure, perhaps a monument to an expedition that had overwintered here. (Click on the image to enlarge.)

We passed by the mouth of a retreating glacier, now mostly a moraine.

These tilted strata speak of ancient geologic forces.

There was small ice even in these back channels.

Eventually base camp came into view. The guest tents are much like yurts, in that they are made of a rigid frame plus fabric and are disassembled and reassembled every season. They are the structures closest to the water.

A closer view, not encompassing the entire camp.

Zodiacs waited to transfer us from the wooden boat to the shore.

On land the first order of business was a briefing about camp life: using the supplied crocs (closed-toe plastic sandals) to walk between buildings, and to take them off on entering, the features of the guest tents and what not to tinker with (the heater) and how to use the dry toilet, the locations of the common tent, shower house and mess hall, and so forth.

After a generous lunch we trooped over to the equipment tent. There we were fitted for survival suits (from Mustang Survival) and kayak gear (neoprene gloves and booties, life jackets, camera bags, paddles), and then we walked over to a protected cove for kayak assignment. In this satellite view, the base camp foundations are visible, and the cove just below.

Joan and I were apprehensive because our previous kayak experiences had either been unpleasant or, because of my height (34" inseam), uncomfortable. In fact, we had declared from the time that we signed up for this trip that we weren't interested in kayaking, but the staff encouraged us to at least give it a try, and we acquiesced.

To accommodate me we were assigned to the largest kayak. Then the kayak master, Ken, gave us a demonstration of paddling technique, and we watched the inflation of the kayaks.

Joan and I shoved off into the cove and paddled. We were always bringing up the rear, which we chalked up to inexperience, plus, Joan's paddle was too short, drenching her. Still, we heard ice crackling and whales blowing, and saw fabulous icebergs, including one that rolled over near the end of the trip.

At the end Ken called out, "How was it?" and Joan said she gave it a 4 out of 10. Ken said he'd take it. Drew gave Joan a longer paddle, and we crossed our fingers for luck, anticipating the looming kayak outing on day 3.

The camp cooks were  highly skilled and dinner was fabulous. There was a lot of laughter, especially when, in the briefing for tomorrow's long expedition, Katie gave us warnings, including a mock demo, regarding the Mustang suits and bathroom breaks. The rule: take them completely off.

The clear-sky sunset was spectacular. 

I had to take a panoramic shot.

Joan and I had already seen the documentary Chasing Ice, the evening feature in the common tent, so we made it an early night after a very busy day.

Weather permitting, tomorrow will be an all-day expedition into Johan Petersen fjord and its several glaciers.