Galapagos: Santa Cruz (Part 1 of 2)

In a complete change of activities today, we visited Santa Cruz, the second largest island in the Galapagos with between 12,000 and 20,000 inhabitants, depending on the source. It was a dry landing at Puerto Ayora -- the zodiacs coasted up to the floating docks.

There was a town map at the docks,

but our first destinations were the Charles Darwin Research Station and the associated Tortoise Breeding Station run by the Galapagos National Park Service. Buses would take us through town, and then there was a half-mile walk. We soon encountered Charles Darwin.

The walk was not without its perils: the treacherous leaves and sweet-tasting fruit of the manzanillo (also known as manchineel).

This specimen was large and leaned into the roadway.

Joan made sure that our pigs of the trip, Dimples and Knuckles, had their visit recorded. 

Various experimental plots lined the walkways.

In this photo there's a cactus "nursery" device. The plate funnels rainwater to the tender seedling, and the cone protects it against sun, wind, and some pests. We'll see a different version of this device in use on tomorrow morning's hike.

Charles was waiting for us at the end of the road.

Then it was time to mosey over to the Tortoise Rearing and Breeding Center. Eleven of the original 12-15 subspecies of Galapagos tortoise still survive, and it's possible that the Pinta tortoise, made famous by Lonesome George, now deceased, might be re-bred from recently discovered hybrids with Pinta DNA.

Lizards enjoyed the compounds and the rock walls. Some kept an eye on us.

But we were here for the tortoises.

The initial tortoise residences tempted us to linger.

What stoic faces they present.

There were further corrals to visit. Note the raised carapace on this (sub)species of tortoise -- it allows him to raise his head higher, to reach cactus blossoms and other fruits. It doesn't come into play here.

The establishment of the center preceded funding of serious conservation efforts, so still today, the tortoises are crowded much closer to each other than they would be in the wild.

There is also an exhibit building at the Foundation.

The interior is dominated by a skeleton of a Bryde's whale.

The whale had washed up, deceased, in 1995.

Our friend Rick got this photo of the skeleton showing the head and jaws.

Then we were on our own to stroll back into town, take in the sights or shop, and all meet again at a café, The Rock, for further adventures. Here is what I call the "ceramics wall" just off the main street.

Joan had been in touch with Ros Cameron, who, along with her son, Mason, we had met on a Lindblad Antarctic trip in 2003. In this photo, we see Ros, Joan, and a young Mason.

Ros worked for the Darwin Foundation at the time, but now works for the Galapagos Conservancy, where she is currently the Development Officer. She has a wide knowledge of the doings in the Galapagos, both official and local, and we had arranged to meet her at the café. But she came down the street on her bicycle as Joan and I were walking towards it! Joan called out and we had a mini-tour with Ros on our way to the café.

Next to the docks at Puerto Ayora is the fish market. Rick, visiting at different time, took much better pictures here than I did.

As you can see, pelicans were clustered around, hoping for a treat, perhaps a stolen fish head. Rick was intrigued with the pelicans and captured this stunning shot of one coming in to land.

A molting sea lion was nestled among all the human feet.

Ros also took us inside the Catholic cathedral. She reported that the Galapagos is collage of religions and proselytizers: Catholic, Latter Day Saints (Mormons), Protestant (evangelical and otherwise), and various offbeat groups. This statue of St. Francis is outside the cathedral; note the tortoise in the left background.

The interior is light and airy, appropriate for the hot climate of these islands.

A closeup of the colored panel -- pelicans!

Close by on the docks was the display of the cigarette crusader. (We'd seen it earlier, briefly, but came back to visit.)

This man, an ex-fisherman, collects the cigarette butts from the local streets and bags them to make a point. He also has two statues, "Nico" and "Tina," made from the same noxious material.

And he sells a book about his 77 days adrift in a fishing boat whose engine failed. We bought a copy.

Then it was off to the café for a cool drink, and further chin-wagging with Ros. She would also join us for dinner aboard the Islander in the evening.

Rick had decided to begin the next stage of the day with a three-mile mountain bike ride, while Joan and I took the last bus. All of us were headed for an artisanal coffee and sugar cane planation, "El Trapiche." But that will start the next post.