Bhutan 2014: Domkhar Tsechu

I'm back! After several weeks away from the keyboard for our annual Canadian Rockies hiking trip, and the catch-up aftermath, it's time to pick up the figurative pen and resume the account of our Bhutan trip.

Domkhar Tsechu -- the night before
Tshering had been mentioning an after-dark ceremony in Domkhar village, which we had visited that afternoon, but he hadn't been specific. The time was often set at the last minute. He also asked, separately, about when we prefer to go to sleep at night. Joan realized what he was being indirect about, and let him know that even though we generally turned in early, we certainly were up for special events even if they took place after dark. Thus, we found ourselves attending the fire purification ceremony that night (May 8th).

There was almost no other chillips (foreign visitors) that evening, perhaps two. The events began just after 8pm (Bhutan does not observe daylight savings time) with the lighting of a fire in the center courtyard of the temple grounds.

Here's a closer look.

The musicians assemble,

and the dancers arrive for the ceremony to purify the grounds in advance of tomorrow's tsechu (religious festival).

To my point and shoot camera they were blurs. An attempt at video came out dark, in only shades of grey.

In the next phase, the iron bowl was placed atop an enlarged fire, while four masked men holding long poles stood buy. (Click on the photo to enlarge.)

The fire was carefully tended by several individuals, including the atsara, who we'll see more of tomorrow. The figure of the atsara is a combination of clown and trickster.

Those aren't horns attached to his mask, they're musical instruments being held by band members in the background.

Then it was time for the pole guys to start raising and lowering -- flapping, if you will -- a cloth attached to the poles.

This culminated in a surprise huge flash, of which I captured only the aftermath.

Torches were ignited from the central fire and handed out to several dancers.

Music played and the torch-wielding dancers danced as the crowd moved to an adjacent farm field, where a fire gate had been erected earlier.

Fire Dancing at Domkhar Tsechu, opening evening from Ben Branch on Vimeo.

The fire gate consists of juniper boughs lashed to a framework. The boughs are set afire, 

and those who dare, or seek more purification, run under and between the flames. Initially people of all ages, even entire families, made the run. Towards the end, as the dash becomes riskier, there is a loop of young men running through the gate again and again.

Running through the fire gate at Domkhar Tsechu from Ben Branch on Vimeo.

The dancers from the courtyard gathered, still in costume, at the edge of the burning gate, along with at least one dignitary (note the fellow with the red kabney, or robe, standing next to the dancers; ordinary gents wear white).

Staying up after dark? No problem!

Domkhar Tsechu
The next morning, on our way to breakfast, I took these photos of the Padmai Denzin Lhakhang (temple) on the grounds of the Chumey Nature Resort.

Its dedication sign.

Then we drove down to Domkhar village to spend the morning watching the tsechu. This time we were not the only chillips in attendance; Joan and I stopped counting at 40. Larger tourist groups had come down from the town of Jakar, perhaps forty-five minutes or an hour away. We felt lucky to be staying five minutes away at Chumey. Joan and I settled down on a concrete stoop, and Tshering and Kaka (the driver) went off to do other things.

The event opened with a traditional women's singing dance. Note the little boy with the toy helicopter who enters from the left about 21 seconds into this video clip. He was charmingly underfoot most of the morning.

Ladies Dance Opens the Domkhar Tsechu from Ben Branch on Vimeo.

After this dance the masked male dancers took the stage, with accompaniment from two musicians.

The crowd began to swell. Eventually the musicians shared their stage with a changing cast of visitors.

The dancers performed barefoot on the stone slabs.

The atsara spent some time supervising and tucking in any stray bits of costume for the performers.

Then he began paying attention to and playing games with the foreign tourists.

One of the atsara's jobs is soliciting funds to defray the cost of putting on the tsechu, maintaining the costumes, and so forth.

He also has fun with the Bhutanese in attendance. Note the Barbie purse carried by the girl in the lovely purple outfit.

Matching blue shoes here ...

A closeup of one of the dancers.

This fellow was guarding the entrance to the building holding the various costumes and masks. Sometimes he used the whip to urge stray dogs, of which Bhutan has many, out of the courtyard. Once or twice he seemed to be enjoying this duty too much.

One youngster toddled forward for a better view.

Between the dances and the people-watching plenty was going on. Joan and I remained on our concrete stoop for two and a half or three hours, occasionally chatting with other chillips. Some Westerners become enthusiastic about Bhutan, like us, and some find it mildly interesting but not special. Then Tshering and Kaka returned, and it was time to return to the Chumey Nature Resort for lunch.

In the afternoon Tshering would test our hiking ability again.