Bhutan: Nabji

Today's walk is eight or nine miles to Nabji, but without as many challenging ups and downs as yesterday. Here, Tsewang begins a couple of explanations.

The marks along this rock are thought by some to be the writings of dakinis. (Be sure to click on the image to get a better look.)

Here is the stone from behind which Guru Rinpoche is supposed to have conquered a demoness. He also sat and meditated there, hence the name "Guru Rinpoche's Seat."

 One of our many stream crossings.

It's difficult to photograph the small, flitty birds -- they just won't sit still -- but today I snapped this shot, a chest view of a Mrs. Gould's sunbird.

As we walked along  the ridge, the rice fields of Nabji and Korphu grew closer.

The camp crew was well ahead of us, and here we can see the tents below us, although we still had a ways to go.

We passed a decommissioned prayer wheel.

We finally arrive at our campsite.

Now that everybody had arrived at camp, Tsewang laid out the evening schedule. We had all expressed an interest in the traditional hot stone bath, where fire-hot stones are immersed in the water. Before supper there would be time for one bath, at 6:30 (well after dark). The other slots would be after dinner, the fifth and final one being a late 10:00. (The wooden tub would be emptied and fresh water added for each bather, so each slot needed at least 45 minutes.) Tsewang diplomatically had us draw lots, and I drew slot #1. Going first meant that I wouldn't learn from the others, but as it turned out, the only thing I really missed was a timepiece. I had no idea how much time I was using -- would I be dashing up just after getting in, or would I be late for dinner?

Here I am, all 6' 3" of me, warming in the outdoor tub with a fragrant veil of artemisia leaves. The hot stones are along the vacant short side. I opted for a cooler bath than is customary, but still toasty -- I didn't want to be sweating for half an hour after getting out! (The attendant added a few buckets of cold water.) After the stones were removed, having given their thermal all, I was able to stretch out lengthwise.

During bath #2, Joan (who had drawn #5) visited the outhouse, to find a gathering in the alley between the two buildings, glimpsed above. Relatives of the attendants had come to help them refill, and then their friends visited ... Joan informed Tsewang, and soon only one person was in attendance if one of us was in the tub. It became apparent that Joan's slot would be quite late, and she decided to give it a pass. Further, less rustic, opportunities for hot stone baths were taken at Phobjikha (Dewachen Resort) and Paro, although not by yours truly. The Taj Tashi in Thimphu would have also been available but we were very busy there.

The next morning, the porters watched as the trekking crew broke camp. Because it was a short walk that day, and it had been a late night, the morning schedule was pushed back half an hour.