Bhutan: Korphu and Nimshong

We awoke the next morning to our alarm, did our usual inside-the-tent routines, and waited for the hot tea. It seemed to be running late, and when voices began to draw closer, it didn't sound like the usual guys who brought the tea and hot water. Then one of them said, "Ho ho ho." It was Santa Namgay, wearing a cotton beard and bearing chocolate!

We learned later that delay was due to two things. It took a while to borrow the red jacket, which belonged to a monk (still asleep) that a lady in town knew. Also, the beard kept falling off. All was forgiven when this smiling visage bearing chocolate appeared.

There was another surprise at breakfast.

This one was really yummy too. Today we took our breakfast plates to an overlook gazebo, separate from the dining pavilion.

The view into the valley was grand.

The trail on to our next destination, Nimshong, passed again through Korphu. Of course, some children noticed us.

As we walked by the house we had visited yesterday, our host called out to us, and a dialog ensued between him and Tsewang. Although we were running late, we went inside, and it was a fabulous experience. They were taking a break from the ABC (annual blessing ceremony) and offered us butter tea. I have never had butter tea before, and this was good. The butter is churned into the tea so thoroughly that there is not an oily film, just a rich texture. Tsewang is right to say that it's excellent for chapped lips. If the butter had been around too long, then the flavor would be off, but what we were served was excellent.

Here the monks look on as the host assembles his family for us, to pose for a photograph.

This video clip of the same action gives you an idea of the sound of Bhutanese speech.

Here is the assembled family. The patriarch and matriarch are on the right.

As we stood up to leave, I got a better view of the monks. You can see some of the tormas on the altar in the upper left of the photo.

 As we trekkers assembled in the courtyard the ceremony picked up again.

Korphu was a high spot of the trek. We had been greeted warmly, as welcome guests, and serendipity had smiled again in the variety of experiences given us.

Today's hike would be to go downhill, almost to the valley floor, and then back up, reclaiming some but not all of the downhill, and then a rolling "level" until a final climb through the village of Nimshong. Shortly after starting the descent, a view opened up that explained why the fields of the Nabji/Korphu area are often called "the peacock tail."

Along the trail, we came upon a golden langur. Check out the length of that tail.

As we stared in admiration, the family came up to join him.

Twenty minutes later, we were treated to three male rufous-necked hornbills chilling out in plain view. Binoculars were useful, as the birds were not immediately by the trail.

Another twenty minutes down the trail, and we encountered the female.

Jillian takes a stretch.

At this point, a pony and his boy catch up to us.

As we got closer to Nimshong, agricultural terraces began to appear.

We paused to study a spot that had a lot of bird activity. In this photo, the barred underparts point to a lesser yellownape woodpecker, while the crest suggests a greater yellownape. Life is uncertain.

The village of Nimshong is spread out vertically, as you see, and our camp is at the top.

As we climbed up through the village, we got permission to take a picture of this family processing this year's grain, winnowing and grinding.

 A view of our campsite from the dining area.

That evening, around the campfire, we did some singing. Joan, always a showtunes fan, sang "Oh What a Beautiful Morning." Tsewang expressed a fondness for the Beatles' "Eight Days a Week," which the group limped through -- my eternal weakness is remembering only snatches of lyrics. So in case you encounter Tsewang in future, here's a study guide.

Ooh I need your love babe,
Guess you know it's true.
Hope you need my love babe,
Just like I need you.

Hold me, love me, hold me, love me.
I ain't got nothin' but love babe,
Eight days a week.

Love you ev'ry day girl,
Always on my mind.
One thing I can say girl,
Love you all the time.

Hold me, love me, hold me, love me.
I ain't got nothin' but love girl,
Eight days a week.

Eight days a week
I love you.
Eight days a week
Is not enough to show I care.

Ooh I need your love babe,
Guess you know it's true.
Hope you need my love babe,
Just like I need you.

Hold me, love me, hold me, love me.
I ain't got nothin' but love babe,
Eight days a week.

Eight days a week
I love you.
Eight days a week
Is not enough to show I care.

Love you ev'ry day girl,
Always on my mind.
One thing I can say girl,
Love you all the time.

Hold me, love me, hold me, love me.
I ain't got nothin' but love babe,
Eight days a week,
Eight days a week,
Eight days a week.

And that was a very eventful Christmas Day. Its glow increases in memory as I review it for this post.