Rockbridge and Rhododendron Cove State Nature Preserves

Saturday, October 25th, was a gorgeous fall day, even if it alternated between sunny and blue, then cloudy and gray, and sunny again as a front came through. The Ohio Natural Areas and Preserves Association, ONAPA, was sponsoring a guided hike at the Rockbridge State Nature Preserve.

Twice as many people showed up as had registered for this hike,

which would be led by Timothy (Tim) Snyder, author of Rainbows of Rock, Tables of Stone. In this photo Tim is introducing us to some of the geological history of this region of Ohio, at our first rest stop. The initial climb makes you breathe harder, but it's not intimidating. 

The trail was well marked; anyone can walk it on his or her own. Stay on it.

About an hour after setting out we reached the bridge. This is my initial view of it, the largest rock bridge in Ohio.

We were treated a talk by Tim about the geological processes that formed the bridge, the erosion of a softer layer of sandstone sandwiched in-between two harder layers, by water entering through cracks in the top layer.

We took the trail down to the base of the bridge.

Everybody with a camera, be it a cellphone or an SLR, was compelled to take a picture of this sight.

Many of us continued the short distance to the Hocking River and its flood plain, host in centuries past to canal boats and railroads that would disgorge tourists to picnic on the rock bridge. Curiously, once these forms of transportation disappeared from the Hocking River, the memory of the rock bridge also vanished until more modern times. 

As we passed the rock bridge on our return ascent, Joan and I, among others, crossed the bridge, almost 100 feet long, whose width varies from 6 to 20 feet.

A wider view of the elevated passage.

In this farewell view, you can clearly see some slump blocks that fell to the ravine floor behind the bridge.

On the returning loop there is a spur for a second loop, the Rock Shelter loop. Well, why not? The sun was out and the day must be taken to full advantage.

The rock shelter and its slump blocks, perhaps a future rock bridge in the making:

On the rock shelter trail we encountered only four other hikers, two groups of two. This was a huge change from the three dozen, not all of our group, at the rock bridge.

After following the loop that caps the rock shelter trail we began our return to the main trail. At our closest approach to the Hocking River there was a good sitting log, where we ate our snacks and peeked between the trees at passing watercraft.

We rejoined the main trail. Near the parking lot a trail section prone to sogginess is covered by a boardwalk, which undulates in spots.

It was not yet 1:30, so Joan and I went on by ourselves to another hike, Rhododendron Cove, a state nature preserve just a few minutes back up Rte. 33.

The trail at first is a wide, flat mowed strip that begins between a natural gas pumping station and the public parking area.

The trail veers left and begins to climb, where the trailhead truly begins, with an information station,

and a dedication plaque.

The trail then insists on a steep, aggressive climb to the top of the ridge. My heart was pumping by the time I reached the crest, but mercifully this section is not long. Near the top you pass through halls of stone.

At this time of year leaf litter is everywhere, and covers the trail. The visual landscape clues were usually sufficient for our eyes, but we were glad for the trail markers, some consisting of colored tape on trees, some of medallions on posts.

We paused to admire this somewhat out-of-focus katydid.

There were views of ravines and other ridges, but especially interesting were the rock formations.

Must come back at rhododendron blooming time. Also note the patch of ferns at the bottom of this photo.

The cove trail has its satellite trail, just as the rock shelter trail left from the rock bridge trail. Along this trail there was some golden glory.

There was also a tree trunk with long, narrow scars. Perhaps these were from a deer rubbing itchy velvet on its growing antlers? The marks are not symmetric enough to be bear clawing; anyway, black bears are unusual in this part of Ohio.

One of the passages was slick on our downhill return, aggravated by the leaf litter. Fortunately there were walls to touch.

Joan and I ended our hiking day well satisfied that we had not wasted this precious late-autumn day. And we did a good turn, in that we carried a deceased mylar balloon and busted pair of sunglasses out of Rhododendron Cove.

A Tale of Two Cameras

In the early spring of 2014 I discovered that my new Panasonic DMC-ZS30 digital camera, which had been only indoors during the winter, had a defect. The GPS did not work. Even under a wide blue canopy of sky, it could not find a signal.

I called the Panasonic service number, and we went through the basic steps: reset the camera to factory default, reload the GPS assist data off the Internet, etc. The GPS on this camera still did not work. Panasonic emailed me the address for repairs, in McAllen, Texas, and told me that the turnaround time would average 14 business days. This was on March 8th. Two trips loomed, Purushaland later in March and Bhutan at the end of April.

I had already sold my trusty but aged DMC-ZS3 on eBay, so while the ZS30 was being repaired I would be without camera. I was suspicious of the repair time and put off sending in the camera, mailing it when I returned from Bhutan. The tracking info said that McAllen received the package on May 27th.

By June 24th, not having heard anything, I was concerned and called to check. The status was "awaiting parts" and Kevin gave me a case number in case I needed to call again.

I called again on July 8th, and the status was unchanged -- awaiting parts. Panasonic's custody of my camera already stood at 42 calendar days. Natalie escalated my case and gave me a service order number.

We were leaving for our Canadian Rockies trip on July 16th, and I was worried. It was time to quickly buy a backup camera in case Panasonic didn't come through. I ordered a Panasonic DMC-ZS35 from Amazon on July 9th.

I should explain Panasonic's numbering system. If the number ends in a 0, such as DMC-ZS30, it is the top of the line of that generation. If it ends in a 5, such as DMC-ZS35, it's the less expensive version of one generation newer. Thus, my DMC-ZS30 was the prior top of the line, and the DMC-ZS35 was the less expensive of the current line.

Why did I choose it? Familiarity of operation, and to be able to use my existing camera batteries and chargers. Buying outside the Panasonic DMC family would mean new batteries and chargers.

I called again, on July 11th, and talked to Jonathan who connected me to Robert. The status was the same. (Clearly Panasonic doesn't maintain an efficient parts warehouse.) He offered to send a replacement camera, but the time it might take was too long, given that I was flying to Canada in five days. I didn't want that package sitting on my doorstep, so I said I would check later and took the ZS35 to Canada.

On my return there was a message on the answering machine for me to call back about my camera. I called, on August 4th or 5th. Because Panasonic hadn't been able to repair my camera within 30 days (today was day #69 or #70!) they offered to send a replacement if the part wasn't in stock. It wasn't. I received a refurbished ZS30, about which I have no complaints, except that I had keep prodding Panasonic about my repair. The GPS works.

I want to warn you about some differences between the ZS30 and ZS35.

I knew that many of the ZS35's specs, such as number of pixels on the display, were inferior to those of the ZS30, but I wasn't prepared for how slow it was. To compare cameras for this blog I used my refurbished DMC-ZS30 and the ZS35 I took to Canada. For each camera I started the iPod stopwatch with my left hand and the camera's power button with my right hand, quickly moving my finger to then depress the shutter button. How long did the ZS30 need to boot and take the picture?

How long did the ZS35 take?

When you're trying to capture something transient, such as a wildlife spotting, this is frustrating. The same lag applied to switching modes, such as from Program to Intelligent Assist or Scene Mode to Panorama.

And the ZS35 was fat, because its display was hinged to help you take selfies. It barely fit into the camera case I used comfortably for the ZS30. Here's the front of the ZS35, in selfie position.

And the back.

Unless you are really, really obsessed with selfies, I consider this a minus.

The screen resolution is worse, although the importance of this is an individual matter. Here is the ZS35 screen,

and the ZS30.

I also stumbled across the fact that the ZS35 doesn't support as many video formats as the ZS30. When I moved the memory card that still had the Bhutan photos and videos to the ZS35, it refused to play the videos. Reviewing the photos was distressing because the ZS35 could produce only coarse thumbnails rather than a full image of the ZS30 JPEGs.

The optics of the ZS30 are marked "Leica," a respected name, while the ZS35 are "Lumix," Panasonic's house name.

The DMC-ZS35 was cheaper than the DMC-ZS30, and it showed. It saw me through Canada, but I can't recommend it as a primary camera.

Bhutan 2014: Journey's Last Days

May 17th was our last full day in Bhutan. At breakfast the Taj Tashi bid us an edible farewell.

We checked out of the hotel,

and drove towards our first destination of the day, the Cheri Gompa, also known as the Chagri Dorjeden monastery. The road north from Thimphu ends near there; then, visitors must cross the river and climb a steep hill to the monastery. Here is a Google Maps image, with the monastery at upper left. 

This privately sponsored shrine and rock painting of Guru Rinpoche was alongside the road, partway from Thimphu.

We reached the end of the road. This photo looks across the river to a chorten/stupa complex at the foot of the hiking path.

Upstream and down, the riverbanks are connected by strings of prayer flags.

Inside the bridge were many tsa tsas, which often are molded from clay and the ashes of a departed person. If in the form of a Buddha, they may also be meditation objects.

We approached the stupa complex and circumambulated the interior yard. Clockwise is the respectful direction.

Here is a look from the back side. The niches in the outer walls hold small prayer wheels.

Beside the path were three structures. On the left is a large prayer wheel; in the center statues of Guru Rinpoche, Shakyamuni (the historical Buddha), and the Shabdrung, in that order from left to right. The rightmost structure protects an image of Phajo Drugom Zhigpo, who first brought the Drukpa lineage to Bhutan in the 13th Century.

The path switchbacks up the side of the mountain, sometimes steeply, sometimes not. This image looks back along the trail.

The route is supplied with containers for visitors' and pilgrims' trash.

This is the view back down the valley, towards Thimphu, as we drew close to the monastery.

Chagri Dorjeden came into view.

This site houses not only a temple and a monastery, but is also a major retreat center where monks may meditate in isolation over months or even years.

This area is a favorite for the Himalayan goral. In this photo there is a monk above and a resting goral below.

Let's take a closer look at the goral, who looks like he might also be meditating. Gorals are an even-toed bovid, in a different genus but the same tribe (Naemorhedini) as the mountain goat. Its status is near-threatened.

Joan, Tshering, and I passed through the entrance.

The area in front of the lhakhang (temple) is more of a crossroads than a pavilion. You can see where visitors have doffed their packs and shoes before entering.

A closeup of the entryway. As always, there are no photos allowed inside the temple. 

Another entrance is to the Chagri meditation center.

A goral strolled by beneath us, showing off its black spine-stripe.

As we left the complex I took this photo of its fire extinguishers. Old, dry interior wood and butter lamps easily lead to incendiary accidents.

Many additional buildings cling to the hillside higher up.

Another trash bin as we left the grounds.

These whorls and cracks summoned my camera.

Someone had placed a small homemade shrine on the side of the path.

One the road back to Thimphu we passed this message painted onto the side of a house/shop. Stopping to take a picture was a must.

Then it was time for lunch, for which Tshering recommended the Indian menu at the Hotel Druk, on the clock tower square. I've never stayed at the Druk, but their lunch was superb.

At the clock tower square there was a major entertainment event about to begin, part of "Bhutan Star," which while inspired by American Idol, is predominantly about Bhutanese culture. A comedian was warming up the crowd.

The free show was sponsored by Bhutan Telecom.

We decided to visit the Thimphu farmers' market instead.

It is organized into two large open floors.

The local products section was especially interesting. It was just as well that we had just eaten lunch. Or was it?

Sacks of spices and spice blends.

One of many produce counters.

By 3pm it was time to drive on to Paro and the Zhiwa Ling for our last night in Bhutan, the same place as our first night. Surprise #1: we had been upgraded to the Takin Suite, in the main building!

This was the view from one of our windows, looking out on the back of the property, where there are separate buildings for the spa, meditation/yoga, and greenhouse.

Surprise #2 was waiting for us in our suite. We had asked about visiting the ceramics workshop next to the Zhiwa Ling, but today they were closed. However ... in our upgraded room ... was one of the plates commemorating 2014, the Male Wood Horse year. It even came with a protective wooden box. This photo is slightly off-angle to reduce the flash glare.

I took several photos while wandering about, saying farewell to the Zhiwa Ling; this one is of the portraits of the five kings of Bhutan.

It's not possible to capture the essence of the Zhiwa Ling in any one photo or sequence of photos, but I must try. This is the third floor, where the lhakhang resides, and the murals above.

Looking down to the central open area, next to reception.

And now looking across the central open area on an upper floor.

The next morning we drove to the airport and said our goodbyes to Tshering and Kaka. After checking in with Druk Air we were directed to pass through passport control, where the event of exiting the country was stamped, and then take the stairs to the business class lounge. Joan and I went through passport control and were bewildered and then stumped. We asked for help. The business class lounge was outside passport control! Huh? Would there be any problems repeating passport control already stamped? As it turns out, no. We had a pleasant flight back to Bangkok, with a stop to refuel soon after leaving Bhutan. The Airbus needs to be as light as possible to clear the ridge at the end of the Paro runway.

The next day in Bangkok we arranged to meet our friends Latiff and Balkeesh from Malaysia. Our 2011 get-together, in Boston, is documented here. Joan and I had newbie nervousness about using Bangkok's elevated SkyTrain system, but it proved to be convenient and easy to use. We rendezvoused with Latiff and Balkeesh and then traveled on to a restaurant they favored. Here they are without their super-cool sunglasses.

And with. Stand back in admiration.

Alas, there was no time for a foot massage, highly recommended by Latiff. Next time we'll have a longer layover. Joan and I returned to the Novotel Suvarnabhumi Airport hotel, cleaned up from Bangkok's heat, finished packing, and walked through the underground connector to the airport for our evening flight.

We departed Bangkok on Qatar Airways, connected in Doha, and landed in Philadelphia at a time (about 7am) when there were no other international arrival flights. We breezed through passport and customs, and easily made our connection to Columbus.

Will we visit Bhutan a fourth time? Quite possibly; it's a special place and changing rapidly. When? Who knows?