Tuesday, May 31, 2016

CW: Las Vegas to Bryce Canyon

Sunday, October 4th. In the hotel lobby Joan and I met the guides and other guests for our Country Walkers trip to Bryce and Zion Canyons, and soon we had loaded up the two vans and set out from Las Vegas on I-15. We were headed for Kolob Canyons and then Bryce Canyon, slicing across a corner of Arizona and entering Utah. But we needed a snack stop along the way.
Our guides, Heather Harding and Eric Kessler, also used the break to give us an orientation, including an overview of the area's geology. Then we were back on the road.
The Kolob Canyons, a short drive off I-15, are a part of Zion National Park. Our destination was the Timber Creek Overlook, and a picnic area (click on the image to enlarge).
Even the view from the parking area was enchanting.
A short walk (round trip one mile) took us to the overlook; we weren't the only ones there.
A zoom down into the canyons.
A study of the peak across the valley, with its twists and folds.
Back at the picnic area we sought out some shade and had a savory lunch with a middle-eastern twist.

We rejoined I-15, and eventually reached Fairyland Overlook in Bryce Canyon National Park. From here we would traverse the rim as far as the park lodge, about three miles away.
The timing was fortuitous, even perhaps planned, because the low afternoon sun was highlighting the upper reaches of the canyon against a backdrop of clouds.
These amazing formations are due to deep history (geology) and erosion.
Erosion is undermining this determined tree.
Rain had built up to the east, and the wind somtimes smashed like surf against the edge along which we walked. Most of the trail, fortunately, hung back from the  brink of the precipice and kept us sheltered from the worst gusts. Occasionally a light sprinkle would lash us, deterring my photography, but there will still great moments.
This is a look back partway along the Rim Trail.
A closeup from near the rim.
An hour into the hike we were treated to a pronghorn antelope sighting.
Our rooms were in a separate building a short distance from the lodge. Walking back after dinner, Joan and I saw a bright meteor, more impressive than an ordinary "shooting star," streak across the sky. We continued to stare up, but clouds moved in swiftly and we reached the door to our building just as the rain started again.

For a transit day with perhaps 300 miles of driving, we saw and walked a lot!

Saturday, May 28, 2016

CW: Durango and Transit to Las Vegas

Our final day of this Country Walkers trip began with an optional pre-breakfast sunrise hike above the Red Cliffs Lodge. The beginning was almost as dark as this photo implies, but the sky brightened quickly.
We continued up a trail, gaining height and a view. Every few steps the air would fluctuate between overnight chill and morning warmth.
Near our turn-around point a herd of mule deer, so named for their large ears, ran by.
This photo shows how deeply the Colorado River has cut its canyon, and the narrow strip of greenery it supports.
After breakfast we quickly loaded the vans and set off for Durango, where we had started only five days before. On the way we detoured to Newspaper Rock,
where petroglyphs have been chipped into the desert varnish that gradually accumulates on the rock.
Here is an overview of the rock, whose dark color comes from manganese oxide.
This photo was taken as a "close up." The symbols are likely a mixture of event depictions, migratory routes, spiritual themes, and notions we haven't though of yet.
Our journey paused in Cortez, New Mexico for a hearty lunch at The Farm Bistro. Once we reached Durango, those of us who would fly out tomorrow (Saturday) disembarked and checked into the Double Tree Hilton, and the rest continued to the airport.

Many of those staying overnight went to Mutu's Italian Kitchen for a group dinner, and our guide Tim Smith arrived in time to dine with us. He took a group photo with each the various cameras passed up to him.
For dessert I ordered a tiramisu. It's an Italian restaurant, after all!
The next morning Joan and I explored a section of the Animas River; a paved riverside path ran just behind our hotel. This river was the victim of a mining waste spill earlier in the year. To the casual observer it now looks fine.
Periodically observation points leaned towards the river. In this photo, there's a street crossing upstream that we'll take to head back into town.
Moseying on, we strolled through an open air market and then took a good look at the exterior of the Strater Hotel, dating from 1887.
Next we went to the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad Museum. No photos were allowed inside, but this link will reveal museum exhibits of life-size train cars and a locomotive, a recreation of the first airplane to fly in Durango (1913), and much more.

Joan and I stepped out of the museum just as the D&SNG was about to pull out of town.
Folks were gathering just beyond the museum. Today was the "motorless parade" of the annual Durango Cowboy Gathering! These ladies were in costume, waiting for their spot in the procession.
Joan and I took up our position at the corner where the queued paraders would turn right to make their way down the main street. First, or almost first, was the Grand Marshall.
That horse knew it was elegantly decked out.
There were several dozen groups in the parade. Here's a stagecoach. The fine print under the driver says "Durango and Silverton Mail and Express." (Click on the photo to enlarge.)
Equestrian finery was in abundance.
Miniatures made several appearances.
Local organizations were participants.

We had lunch downtown, collected our luggage, and took the hotel shuttle to the airport. The flight from Durango to Phoenix was flawless, but after we boarded the flight to Las Vegas, where we would join the next trip, one of those dreaded announcements was made. During pre-flight inspection the captain had noticed a small hole in the sound deadening material of one engine. An epoxy fix (OK according to Airbus documentation) was being applied, but we would have to wait for it to cure, and we all got off the plane. After a while the gate agent informed us that we would have a plane swap instead. Fortunately, American Airlines had an equivalent Airbus handy. It's interesting that our two small-plane regional flights, into and out of Durango, were uneventful, but the two larger-plane flights, into Dallas and out of Phoenix, were both delayed by maintenance issues, whether paperwork or needed repairs.

On arrival in Las Vegas Joan and I walked through the terminal, passing by innumerable noisy electronic gambling machines. From our 'D' gate we needed an underground train ride to reach baggage claim in terminal 1.
The baggage claim area was a shock. There were multiple huge screens advertising various casinos and their shows, blaring at maximum volume. Cellphone users were forced to seek a sound shadow, a corner somewhere were the audio assault diminished enough to allow them to hear and be heard on the phone. I hope I never need to visit baggage claim in Las Vegas again.

The hotel shuttle driver expounded on Las Vegas' extravagant use of water, the falling water table, and the inevitable doom that would strike the city as water became harder and harder to find.

Then we checked into the hotel. Tomorrow morning we'll meet our new guides and fellow travelers for another week's adventure in Bryce and Zion Canyons.

Thursday, May 26, 2016

CW: Arches, Arches, Arches! (Part 2 of 2)

This is part 2 of our day at Arches National Park; part 1 is here.

The afternoon heat was peaking as we hopped out of our vans at The Windows. A short, easy trail led to a string of formations; this photo captured only a portion of them.
A sign explained the geological processes that formed the arches.
Climbing the broad stairs to the North Window took little effort.
Almost there.
Inside the North Window visitors paused and snapped pictures. Lots of pictures.
Here's one of mine.
From here there's a great view of The Turret, named for its leaning tower. Note the small window to the left of the main arch.
Joan and I walked over to The Turret, and I took this image from the other side, as evidenced by the placement of the small window.
From here we could see both the north and south windows, a combination called The Spectacles.
The two arches appear more spectacle-ish from this angle. My, what a big nose you have!
It was the briefest of drives over to the Double Arch, but none of us wished to walk in the heat.
It was a short approach to the arches.
This rock tower along the way suggested a human face looking to the right.
It's impossible to capture both arches in one photo. Here is the junction point where they both start (or terminate, depending on your point of view).
On reaching this point most rest in the shade. Joan and I tried to clamber up to the floor of the arch, but it became too steep.
The view back was impressive.
We drank lots of water, keeping up with the heat; there was one more stop to go: Balanced Rock.
As we pulled into the parking area, Joan spotted a blue Tesla Model S pulling out. (There's a SuperCharger in Moab.)

Balanced Rock changes dramatically as you walk around it on an easy path.

At one point the rock looms above. Didn't that sign say that the nearby Chip-Off-The-Old-Block balanced rock tumbled down about 40 years ago?
Then it was time to return to the Red Cliffs Lodge, take a well-deserved shower, and prepare for a wonderful farewell dinner. Yes, this part of our trip was already about to end; many Country Walkers trips are geared to one-week vacations.

At our merry feast we were treated to a performance by cowboy singer Sand. Sometimes we accompanied him on familiar tunes, including "King of the Road," a hit from (ahem) 1964.
There was just time afterwards to catch the sunset, bookending the day's sunrise.
Tomorrow we'll all ride back to Durango, and some will even fly out that evening.
Joan and I will spend much of the following day in Durango, however, before flying out to the next Country Walkers trip in our back-to-back sojourn.